geo.aigel

This is just my impression and what I summarized for myself after doing quite some research: The 3.2 in the carrera can run hotter than the 3.0 in the SC. (There is a reason why they went with a different oil cooler) Also, the valve guides are NOT as good on the 3.2 as some 3.0 were. If you upgrade to the later chain tensioners and a pop off valve my true belief is that the 3.0 is the more reliable car. I have read in more than one reference that the 3.0 can go 300k miles without even the top end coming off. I have not read that about the 3.2. Friends with similar mileages on their 3.2 compared to my 3.0 have quite some blue smoke at startup showing some valve guid wear, I have practically none...

If you look at SC cars, get an 81 or 82. The smog pump is gone iin favor of the O2 sensor, they are higher compression and there is no rubber in the clutch mechanism (only important on cars on the first clutch).

Hope this helps.

Cheers, George
150k miles

MRFLATSIX

Jordan:
I'd be a little cautious buying a '75 with a 3 liter motor. In California, the smog inspection is pretty tight now and is all done by computer. The first thing the inspector will look for is to detrmine that the smog equipment is original.The '75 in California used a differnt type of heat exchanger that worked like an afterburner {I forgot what it's called} and every other smog control device known to man. The SC motor used different controls and if the engine dosen't LOOK like a '75 he'll reject the car. It won't matter if it passes emissions or not,it will still be rejected because it's not original. You'll have to go to an arbitration station where they will determine the year of the engine and it will have to pass the emission specs for that year. If it's an '81 engine it'll have to pass '81 specs. you might eventually get it certified but it's going to be a big hassel and probably cost you a lot of money. Is it worth it? I would just try to find a good SC or Carrera and buy that. Even if it neds a little work you'd be better off. Good luck

TMH

When you look at the various posts and FAQs, the consistent wisdom is to buy the newest Porsche you can afford, unless there is a reason you specifically want an older model. I think that this is good advice.

The 2.7l stud issues are notorious, and I agree with others who state that virtually all of these engines have already been rebuilt by now. Like others have specified, look at the rebuild records for QUALITY of the work. If the motor was rebuilt by MotorMeister, look at another vehicle (do a search on the Pelican boards for issues with MM).

I also read several threads recently regarding the 3.0l motors in the SC's. Yes, these motors were always known as bulletproof (especially when compared with the 2.7l motors), but they are getting on now in age and mileage. Several recent threads have discussed broken studs in 3.0's and more may be seen now that these engines continue to age. Better than a 2.7l? Most definitely. Bulletproof? Perhaps not...

There are also the late '70's 911s with 3.0 or 3.2 motors installed. You really have to get in these and drive them to determine the effectiveness of the work which was done. In some which I have driven with motor transplants, the clutch was very stiff and heavy. I don't know whether this was due to the motor change or other issues, just an observation from personal experience.

Drive first, verify the records next, and get your PPI if the first 2 check out O.K. Then just be ready to maintain your 911 regularly and properly and, most important of all, have fun!

Good luck,
Tom

Jordan_4WS

Thanks to everyone for all their replies. I got some more information on the 75 3.0 911. The owner says "I'm not sure how many miles are on the car, but 47,400 are showing. He only has recipets for the clutch job and tranny rebuild and all the misc parts HE replaced (none for the engine which the previous onwer replaced). The motor does not have the chain tensioner upgrade, It DOES have the pop-off upgrade.T he suspension is fine, when I bought the car it was lowered, the steering is tight. THe braking works great, It has new crossdrilled rotors, and pads. however the brakes are manual."

Does it sound decent, or does it sound like I should pass since there is no documentiation of the engine rebuild? Worth taking a look at?

Jordan

geo.aigel

You can have a later engine in an earlier car. In California it is the seller's responsibility to smog the car before selling it. If the engine swap has been refereed before, there will be no problem. I used to own such a (non porsche) converted car with no smog problems whatsoever. Again, just like with the rebuild, you need to get something that has been done by a reputable shop and there won't be any issues. I still am convinced that the early car with the later engine is a wonderful combination if done right.

Cheers, George