buying a 69 & 70 911T that have not moved in 20 years- need some opinions
12-13-2013, 09:46 PM
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buying a 69 & 70 911T that have not moved in 20 years- need some opinions
Hello,
I have found a 69 911T that was driven into a garage 20 years ago and has not been moved since, also included in the deal is a 70 911T that was a parts car. The 69 was left with gas and oil in the car and I need to know the steps to take before checking if the engine will turn over.
Any thoughts or input would be appreciated!
Thanks
I have found a 69 911T that was driven into a garage 20 years ago and has not been moved since, also included in the deal is a 70 911T that was a parts car. The 69 was left with gas and oil in the car and I need to know the steps to take before checking if the engine will turn over.
Any thoughts or input would be appreciated!
Thanks
12-13-2013, 11:22 PM
#2
Squirt some marvel mystery oil into the jugs after you remove the plugs and let it sit a bit. Turn it over by hand.
First question to answer was why was it parked 20 years ago...what broke?
First question to answer was why was it parked 20 years ago...what broke?
12-14-2013, 01:22 AM
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1) pull the plugs out
2) squirt some marvel mystery oil into each cylinder and let it sit overnight
3) Gently turn the motor over by hand with the plugs out
4) Drain all fluids, replace all filters/ replenish with new fluids- weight oil does not matter much as you will be replacing it again anyway
5) disconnect coil and dme relay (black rectangular relay under driver seat)
6) hook up new battery and turn the ignition / starter over so you spin the motor up to oil pressure (you will see this on the guage to the left of the speedo)
7) have a fire extinguisher and some friends handy to check out bottom of the front of the car, rear underside and engine compartment
8) plug in the dme relay
9) turn the engine over and check for fuel leaks
10) disconnect each injector at the fuel rails/ rig up a couple small leads to "tickle" them with 12 volts- just touching one lead briefly while the other is connected. This will slam the pintel valves open / closed and will most likely help remove the varnish build up
11) Install plugs and Hook up the coil
12) fire it up on the new gas . Now note that the exhaust system will most likely have a lot of oil in it and will smoke like h*ll as it warms up. So the tip here is to remove the cat converter and muffler so this oil can be washed out of the two and any residual oil in the heat exchangers burn off. Of course the marvel mystery oil will contribute to the mosquito fogging experience till it burns off too
Some observations from experience
When cars are parked for a long period of time on old oil, acids form in the block and attack the bearings. We have disassembled 2-5 year stored engines and seen this. You can't add material from the outside, so this means the engine needs a rebuild to get it right. But since you are on a budget, the above procedure is okay to see what your engine can run like.
3.2 motors have fuel lines that crack and rot over time. To save $, these lines can be re-hosed at a local hose supply house, but make sure you clock the fittings correctly and have them pressure test the assemblies before reinstalling them.
If you cannot turn over the motor by hand after an overnite soak with the mmo, then be patient and try again after squirting more in and waiting. You can go counter clockwise a little, then turn clockwise several revolutions by hand
2) squirt some marvel mystery oil into each cylinder and let it sit overnight
3) Gently turn the motor over by hand with the plugs out
4) Drain all fluids, replace all filters/ replenish with new fluids- weight oil does not matter much as you will be replacing it again anyway
5) disconnect coil and dme relay (black rectangular relay under driver seat)
6) hook up new battery and turn the ignition / starter over so you spin the motor up to oil pressure (you will see this on the guage to the left of the speedo)
7) have a fire extinguisher and some friends handy to check out bottom of the front of the car, rear underside and engine compartment
8) plug in the dme relay
9) turn the engine over and check for fuel leaks
10) disconnect each injector at the fuel rails/ rig up a couple small leads to "tickle" them with 12 volts- just touching one lead briefly while the other is connected. This will slam the pintel valves open / closed and will most likely help remove the varnish build up
11) Install plugs and Hook up the coil
12) fire it up on the new gas . Now note that the exhaust system will most likely have a lot of oil in it and will smoke like h*ll as it warms up. So the tip here is to remove the cat converter and muffler so this oil can be washed out of the two and any residual oil in the heat exchangers burn off. Of course the marvel mystery oil will contribute to the mosquito fogging experience till it burns off too
Some observations from experience
When cars are parked for a long period of time on old oil, acids form in the block and attack the bearings. We have disassembled 2-5 year stored engines and seen this. You can't add material from the outside, so this means the engine needs a rebuild to get it right. But since you are on a budget, the above procedure is okay to see what your engine can run like.
3.2 motors have fuel lines that crack and rot over time. To save $, these lines can be re-hosed at a local hose supply house, but make sure you clock the fittings correctly and have them pressure test the assemblies before reinstalling them.
If you cannot turn over the motor by hand after an overnite soak with the mmo, then be patient and try again after squirting more in and waiting. You can go counter clockwise a little, then turn clockwise several revolutions by hand
12-14-2013, 03:03 AM
#4
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Holy Crap. I thought that Marvel Mystery Oil was a secret you had to know the handshake to find out about. 
An automotive forensics investigator told me it is a trade secret he only shared with me because my 4.3L Ford suffered a professional sugar/water in the gas hit that should have sent it to the scrap yard. He could not believe I had the courage to rebuild it. He said my only hope was to use the MMO. 
An automotive forensics investigator told me it is a trade secret he only shared with me because my 4.3L Ford suffered a professional sugar/water in the gas hit that should have sent it to the scrap yard. He could not believe I had the courage to rebuild it. He said my only hope was to use the MMO.
12-14-2013, 05:47 AM
#5
What exactly is a "professional" sugar in the tank job? Do they calculate the sucrose to Karo syrup balance like some "Walter White" of screwing with people's car guy?
12-29-2013, 08:23 PM
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Thanks for the comments. It turns out that they are both 1970 911T's, the parts car is in rough shape and driver is not looking great after sitting for so long. I'm taking it to a local shop and getting a comprehensive list of whats wrong and then I'll take it from there.
12-30-2013, 01:09 AM
#7
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The detective said very few people know how to get the sugar through the filters and through the injectors. Police and the criminals they serve are the only ones privy to the info.