theiceman

yeah dont rush to that pump until you have verified its spendy. still good pm though as it will last you another 20 years

Edmonton911

i will grab a volt meter tomorrow, find the pump, and verify... i assume it should have 12 volts to it? when should it have power to it ie does someone have to be cranking the engine or just the key turned all the way right once or 3/4 of way etc. i got the picture to work now...

What is a reasonable price for a fuel pump so i know when i am looking tomorrow?

Thanks guys.

Mark Salvetti

The fuel pump is under the car at the rear of the fuel tank. You'll need to jack up the front, support it on jack stands, then remove the stone guard (a metal plate that protects the pump).

But you don't want to do that yet - work your way down. See my post on the last page (#12). Start at the fuse panel, it's a lot easier and much more likely to get you closer to the problem. You mentioned the fuse looked OK - did you try replacing it anyway? Also try spinning the fuse in the holder - sometimes you can get corrosion on the contacts and spinning the fuse can break any resistance.

Then when you get the voltmeter check for power at the relay like I suggested - you're looking for 12V. The socket numbers are printed next to the pins on the back of the relay. If you don't have power at the relay then you've narrowed things down. If you do have power, use the jumper (which bypasses the relay). If the pump runs, then you probably just need to replace the relay.

If you have power at the relay, but bypassing the relay still doesn't get the pump to run, now you can get out the jack and check for power at the pump (12V again).

Oh, you don't need to have anyone cranking the car to check for power. Just move the key to On (the position just before Start).

Mark

theiceman

..that pump wont get power until you lift that air plate with the ignition on .. thats what starts the pump if the engine isnt running .. well in a normally wired car anyway ..

Edmonton911

To keep everyone updated (if anyone cares):
After reading a thread on here about jacking your car up, I went at trying to put the car on stands. The thread i read said to jack the crank case and then place stands on the points by the rocker panels and then go and jack the front up and do the same.... The first suprise was how much the car had to lift off the ground before the tires did... probably 15" or so before tires came off... is anything wrong with my suspension or is it just because the style of it? I went and placed jack stands under the rocker panels which barely beared on the stands (do people have inserts they put in the steel channel?) as i was lowering the car I started to noticed that it appeared it was pivoting about the stands and due to the rear bias of the car that at these points the front would be in the air and not the back if i let go. After this i left the jack under it and just decided i would not put my head under the car, SAFETY FIRST or at least a close second. I then took off my wheels and noticed the crud that had built up in the wheel wells over time. Went and bought some degreaser and a soft brush and wire brush an proceeded to spend the next three hours of the day washing my back wheel wells. Picture below, still need a bit more work.
Anyway bought fuel pump comes in today as i ordered it thinking that if I dont need one today, I will need one in the very near future. I will let you know how it goes soon.
BTW this is off topic but i have read a billion posts about oil for these cars but I do not think alot of the users are in colder climates. I have no desire to drive the thing below 10 C (50 F for those down south) but my garage is not heated during the storage of the car. Should i still use the 15W50 that most recommend?

theiceman

i put mine on the torsion bar covers .. never had an issue ..

rusnak

wait a minute, the rocker jack receiver is for lifting if you're doing side-to-side. It's not a suitable place to put a jackstand at all. (1) the weight distribution is all wrong. You can tilt the whole car rearwards on the stands; and (2) you may dent the rocker panels.

Use the torsion bar covers or the floorpan. If you use the floorplan, wait until you get a good understanding of which point is reinforced and won't cave it.

Edmonton911

Thanks this makes sense. It is a good thing i put the jack down really slow as something did not seem right to me. Avoided any damage. Those torsion bar covers seem pretty sturdy so i will use those.

This thread should be renamed a newbies guide to owning a porsche. Found the bentley manual on chapters as none on amazon would ship to me. That should help.

Edmonton911

got her running a couple of interesting notes:
fuse in fuel pump location was undersized (owners manual calls for 25 A, there was a 16 A in the spot) There was a loose wire that was no longer contacting on the next circuit #17, probalby was not affecting the FP). Thanks for everyones help especially the notes regarding the voltages in the relay sockets.

theiceman

do a search for " porsche 101 " that should help.

weve all been there.. although i have never done THAT ... too bad you didnt have a better pic .. could have made our wall of fame with the jackstands on the lift plate..