PelicanParts.com

Prior to replacing your entire clutch mechanism, it is recommended that you replace the clutch cable, and eliminate it as a possible source of clutch problems. It is common for a failing cable to indicate the same symptoms as a bad or worn out clutch. A very stiff clutch pedal, or difficulty releasing the clutch may be caused by the cable binding or separating. Replacing the clutch cable and the helper spring on late 915 models may relieve more clutch problems that you would imagine. While you have access to the area, it may be a wise idea to rebuild your pedal cluster as well and replace the old plastic bushings with durable bronze ones.

Replacing your clutch cable is not a difficult task and can be accomplished within 2 hours.

We have the parts in stock ready to ship for that weekend project!

Take a look HERE for product details!

If this will be a DIY project, follow our step-by-step instructions HERE

Let us know what questions you have at any time!

Mark/Pelican Parts

theiceman

i did this exact project when i first got my car. the cable and the bronze bushings. a very rewarding diy project. this and the door stay reenforcements i consider the two best projects i did

PelicanParts.com

Pretty straightforward and can have a very positive result you can actually feel!

Reiver

I've a new clutch but need to get to that...at the max adjust.
Ice, since you are good at it I've a 11 month old Pup that need to learn to 'stay'....

race911

Then for Step 2, make sure you've got the thing adjusted correctly. Especially important on the '77-'86 transmissions that do have the helper spring.

(Replaced countless clutches back when I had my shops due to improper clutch adjustment that ended up killing the pressure plate.)

theiceman

easy.... if you want it to stay you have to fix the crack

theiceman

whats 1 mm between friends

Amber Gramps

Depends on how close you are.

race911

Just that the 1mm becomes preload when you've got someone who doesn't know the first thing about how it's supposed to be set up cranking down on that 8mm bolt + jam nut (often removed to get even more preload)...........

theiceman

too true .. i wonder if im the only one **** enough to climb under and check theat 1mm time to time ..

rusnak

The pre-load is only 0.2mm. Don't forget to adjust the total travel too. That part is a two man job.

theiceman

yeah kind of reminds me of my neighbour who was so proud he was remodelling his bathroom to put a 2 man shower in .. i just couldnt hold a stright face .. he just didnt clue in ..

not that there is anything wrong with that ..

okay back to your regularly scheduled program.

race911

Preload on what? Certainly not the release bearing.

rusnak

Doug, that truck needs a set of painted Fuchs.....

sorry that was just mean

rusnak

No, no...of course not on the TO bearing.

I mean on the cable. Make the cable just slack-free, then adjust the gap to 1.2 mm, then tighten cable to the famous 1.0 mm gap. Now the cable has .2 mm pre-load or whateveh. Gap is still 1.0 mm to the TO arm.

BTW..2 hrs to replace the cable is slackin' !!