Need a Clifford alarm expert!
04-27-2013, 11:23 AM
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Need a Clifford alarm expert!
I have a 1981 911SC that's been having some starting problems. Went out to dinner tonight, came back and the car wouldn't start. Took a cab home, came back with my Landcruiser and jump started the 911. Noticed that after I started it with a jump the two Clifford lights on the key pad (the "amber" light and the red "light") which are usually lit on the keypad on the dash, had both gone out.
I get home, shut the car down, and go to release trunk to attach my battery charger. Bad news, the hood (solenoid?) is locked and I can't open the trunk. Usually I have to push the "#" sign on the Clifford key pad, hear an audible 'click' and can then pull the hood release under the dash. This time, the key pad is dead, no click sounds, and no ability to pull the hood release. I fear the Clifford is fried and the trunk cannot be released.
Anybody have any suggestions as to how I open the trunk to get at my battery and the Clifford brain unit? I think I have a Clifford "Model 7", if that helps.
Thanks. Fearing the worst here.
Chad
I get home, shut the car down, and go to release trunk to attach my battery charger. Bad news, the hood (solenoid?) is locked and I can't open the trunk. Usually I have to push the "#" sign on the Clifford key pad, hear an audible 'click' and can then pull the hood release under the dash. This time, the key pad is dead, no click sounds, and no ability to pull the hood release. I fear the Clifford is fried and the trunk cannot be released.
Anybody have any suggestions as to how I open the trunk to get at my battery and the Clifford brain unit? I think I have a Clifford "Model 7", if that helps.
Thanks. Fearing the worst here.
Chad
04-27-2013, 01:34 PM
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Sorry Chad,
I have seen this one too many times myself, and not just on the keypad type. Because the alarm brain has to be able to disable the start function, it is usually installed by cutting the main start signal wire and re routing it into and out of the black box that says Clifford, Ungo, Piranha, etc. Either the Chinese parts in the alarm fail, or the splices in the ignition wire become poor connectors, both leaving the car dead where is sits, even though the lights and other items still function.
I now COMPLETELY REMOVE all aftermarket alarms from cars that I or my friends/family buy.
It is simply a matter of poorly designed and built circuitry often coupled with less than "engineered" installation. I am also fairly certain that professional scumbags are not deterred by an alarm, and can lead to a false sense of security.
Play with the system to see if you can get anything to come alive, checking power supply and all else, and then remove all of the components associated with the alarm. You may be able to attempt to use the main wiring plug that feeds the black box to fire the solenoid directly by jumping 12V to the wire that connects the solenoid to the alarm brain.
Hope this helps.
I have seen this one too many times myself, and not just on the keypad type. Because the alarm brain has to be able to disable the start function, it is usually installed by cutting the main start signal wire and re routing it into and out of the black box that says Clifford, Ungo, Piranha, etc. Either the Chinese parts in the alarm fail, or the splices in the ignition wire become poor connectors, both leaving the car dead where is sits, even though the lights and other items still function.
I now COMPLETELY REMOVE all aftermarket alarms from cars that I or my friends/family buy.
It is simply a matter of poorly designed and built circuitry often coupled with less than "engineered" installation. I am also fairly certain that professional scumbags are not deterred by an alarm, and can lead to a false sense of security.
Play with the system to see if you can get anything to come alive, checking power supply and all else, and then remove all of the components associated with the alarm. You may be able to attempt to use the main wiring plug that feeds the black box to fire the solenoid directly by jumping 12V to the wire that connects the solenoid to the alarm brain.
Hope this helps.
