worn

OK, when I adjusted the valves the stud end literally bounced off my nose. No surprise.
There is an end left sticking out AND I have found that a chromoly pushrod tube is a slight interference fit on the stud and is small enough to fit in the hole. So I was wondering if it is possible by this means or any other to get that stud out from underneath the car. One issue I worry about is being able to heat the area to loosen the loctite - the auto correct prefers lactate to loctite.

Maybe there is another way. I haven't heard of it though so am seeking your wisdom. I should add that I removed the entire CIS, intakes and all, without moving the engine, and you supposedly aren't able to do that.

Any help? Yes, I know: drop the engine. But besides that?

theiceman

Getting the cis is about 45 minutes without dropping the engine out.
Not so much for getting studs out. Pretty sure it can't be done. Cams, carriers, and head has to slide off so you can get to the base of the stud, and that is after you get the exhaust off with those scary exhaust nuts.

Youd be way ahead dropping the engine.

I have heard you can run on three. But i wouldnt do it.

GothingNC

If one stud has snapped, the others are soon to follow.

Best way is to drop the motor and replace them all.

Also, use plenty of heat to get them to loosen.

Good luck.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Totally agree,....further, you cannot extract the broken one without removing the cylinder to be able to heat the case. This is necessary to release the loctite used at the factory.

worn

Thanks all. My idea was that I can torque on the stud without removing the cam tower etc. My real concern was how to heat the loctite. Sounds pretty impossible. So with the exhaust I have had good luck with an acetylene torch to get them free - ok idea still? Also, how do I keep from going overboard once I get the engine out? I have gone down the while I am in there road before, and I like actually driving the car!

theiceman

How far you go is up to you. A gasket kit head studs and hardware and you are fixed. If all you're doing is fixing and not rebuilding it can be done.

coolmac

I have heard of a tool, that was a long rod with a machined the center. The rod was able to slide over the broken stud. Heat the rod and twist the broken stud out.

theiceman

i think a collet tool is fine... if that is what you are talking about, that is what i used.

something like this

sithot

Or you can have some of this. '68 Factory Group 3 motor; multiple stud failure. Note the insulation on them. This was supposed to help with heat and contraction. All it did was hold moisture, cause stress risers and you know the rest. This was a very cool engine with Ti rods big port heads and 906 cams. Single plug. It's in a friends factory Group 3 car now where it belongs. Runs like a scalded rat.

BTW: The one on the far left was a bit$h.

I've now owned 2 SC's that broke studs. They and the Carrera will all break one eventually. One was at roughly 50K and the other closer to 80. There is no easy way out.

dr914

I agree it is the exhaust studs that get it. Drop the engine and do it right.

theiceman

i broke an exhaust stud , by the time i dropped the motor put it on an engine stand and rotated it, 3 more broke and fell out ( all exhaust )