Just finished replacing the front torsion bars, and just started on replacing the rears. I knew it would be tougher than the front, but, crap! I can't get the rear torsion bar cover off! Help! I need the secret!

Shouldn't this thing just slide off?

 

For clarity,...are you trying to remove the spring plates?

It appears that you've already removed the covers,....

 

Yeah. That thing.

I finally got it off, but it wasn't pretty. Had to drill a hole in the end cap, squirt some PB Blaster in there, and hit the torsion bar with a punch. I was planning on replacing those "spring plates" with ones that are easier to adjust, anyway.The ride height bolts on these original plates must be torqued on to 20 gazillion foot-pounds, as I cannot free them.

Elephant or Sway-A-Way adjustable spring plates? The difference in price is substantial, especially when you factor in having to buy bushings for the Elephants.

 

Keep us informed if you would.
I love a good tale of success.
Mike

 

Man, next year I want Santa to bring me a heated/air-conditioned garage and a 2 post lift. Working in a carport with a dirt floor & jackstands is hard work. GF did give me a polypropylene 9' x 12' floor cover, so that did help a bit: I can slide around on it instead of crawling in the dirt.

This weekend I installed 23mm Sway-A-Way solid torsion bars I got used from a DE buddy. They were relatively easy, although I did have to drill the front covers to pop them out so I could hammer the torsion bar out the rear.

So then I started on the rear, which I knew would be harder. Got the right side disassembled and started on the left, before it got too dark and cold to continue. I'll complete the disassembly on the 1st. I need to order parts for the rear.

I'm planning on ordering:
30mm solid Sway-A-Way torsion bars
Elephant Quick Change spring plates
Elephant rubber bushings

While I'm waiting on the parts to get here, I'll flush the brake fluid and do my first ever oil change.

Then, once I get the rear torsion bars installed, I'll work on getting her set to Euro height or slightly lower. After that's done, I'll try to find someone local who can do a corner balance and 4 wheel alignment. If I can't find anyone local, I guess I'll have to trailer her to Autometrics in Charleston or Franz Blam in Atlanta.

 

The Sway-Away spring plates offer plenty of adjustment, and are fine in my book. I'd think the Elephant spring plates are overkill for the average Joe, unless you're going to be dialing in suspension for different tracks. You need new bushings either way you go.

You are going very stiff on the T-bars, IMO. Is this going to be mostly track now? If so, I'd go to the Elephant PB bushings.

What shocks are you running? Those will need to be changed to match the springs, before you do the alignment and balance.

 

Ed offers some excellent advice; I would only differ with him about spring plates since I've had nothing but grief with the Sway-a-Way ones.

IMHO, their QC is just abysmal and in many cases, the two pieces do not line up well due to to poor alignment before they are welded together. That leaves the adjusting screw at the edge of the block; a big heap of no good when they flex over a bump and the suspension unloads,...

ER only for us.

Shock valving MUST match the spring rates to have decent handling and ride quality.

 

Steve's experience is certainly going to be much broader than mine. I've had a grand total of one set of their spring plates in my hands to go by.

 

Yes, it's mostly track now, hence the stiffy T-bars. My last session at CMP showed the car rolling like a Weeble-Wobble.

I am still considering the Elephant PB bushings, but they are way more expensive than the rubber ones. Are they that much better?

The shocks are relatively new Bilsteins: HD in front and Sports in the back. I hope the valving is close enough, because removing and installing those ***** was a nightmare.

 

Oh great... guess what spring plates came with my latest project? I already had my eyes on ER front mounted oil cooler kit... let me look what their spring plates go for.

Thank you for the advice!

 

Yeah, but you have a lift! Bastard!

 

I have never done this... will ask for help once I get the car back and start putting it together. Please share as much details as possible of this install, thank you!

 

Damn right I'm jealous! I'm too old and fat to be crawling around under a car.

Where is your car now? What are you trying to accomplish in your latest project?

I got my Targa almost exactly 1 year ago, and almost immediately started "improving" it. Since this is my 1st Pooschy, the best advice I got on here and the Pelican forum was to get the Bentley manual and 101 Projects. They are good, but they do sometimes gloss over some of the difficulties. For instance, there are many repairs that IMHO, should only be attempted by a 4 armed midget with the strength of Godzilla. Plus there are some dinky little things, like removing and installing the seats, where the order in which you attempt to remove and install the bolts, is of primary importance. That's where forums like this come in handy. That, and deciding which motor oil and brake pad to use.

I'll take some pictures of the left rear side disassembly since I haven't done it yet; then some pictures of the assembly once I get some parts.

 

I don't think those shocks are even close. Trust me, you'll think they are "fine", because the stiff springs will feel so different and racy, and then someday you will change shocks, and find that they weren't right at all. I only had 22/29's, and that was the case.

You're spending serious time and effort to upgrade, you are cutting corners by not doing shocks, if improvement is your goal. One of the great things about Bilstein, is that you can send them to their operation in San Diego, and they will custom valve for around $100/shock.

I think the ER PB bushings are great, especially for a stiffly sprung car that tracks.

 

Ed, I've still got the old, worn Bilstein HDs that I took off the car. Would Bilstein be able to rebuild and custom valve them? That way I wouldn't have to remove my new shocks right away. I hate not being able to drive it for long periods of time.