blitzkrieg59

I'm looking to get a good idea of the value of a '77 911s that I've been working on for a good friend. He's looking to sell it and he's not certain what it's worth. I'd really like to buy it from him and I think I have a ballpark idea of what the car is worth, but I'm looking for a more accurate assessment.
The car isn't currently drivable as something funky is going on with the FI system. Fuel pressure test will be performed tomorrow. I don't see any signs the car has ever been wrecked, but I can't be sure. No pics of the car yet, but I'd call it a five-footer. Here's a list of the fine details:

1977 Porsche 911s
164,xxx miles

Body: (No rust anywhere that isn't listed specifically here, rust isn't soft, crusty or seeping and hasn't broken through the paint unless otherwise specified.)
-- No sunroof
-- Oak Green, repainted about 10 years ago (original color)
-- Half-dime-sized rust bubble between rear wheel arch and rear windscreen
-- Pinky finger sized line of subtlety bubbled rust on edge of passenger rear quarter panel where it meets the bumper
-- Half pinky finger sized line of rust where the front passenger quarter panel meets the cowl
-- Index finger sized exposed bubbling rust on the corner of the firewall on the driver's side where it meets the corner of the front engine tin (to quote John Muir, "front is front.")
-- Half-dime-sized bubble of rust on driver's side front quarter panel near the windscreen
-- Light surface rust in the little compartment behind the gas tank
-- Passenger door out of adjustment (won't shut all the way)

Engine/transmission (some details coming from receipts and records from 1985 to 2006):
-- 2.7 rebuilt in 1990 at unknown mileage in 1990.
-- "Engine R+R" and new "reconditioned" pistons and cylinders in 1996 at 141,382 miles.
-- No thermoreactors
-- Stock CIS
-- 12-blade fan
-- Carrera oiled tensioners
-- Carrera oil pump
-- "Installation of steel cylinder studs verified"
-- A/C removed
-- Heat removed, headers installed
-- MSD CDI
-- Compression as of last night, 6,5,4,3,2,1 -- 140, 141, 120, 145, 120, 140
-- Transmission rebuilt at unknown mileage in 2005
-- 16-inch Fuchs

Interior:
-- Carpet removed
-- Console in front of shifter gone
-- Dash recovered in leather
-- Seats in decent shape
-- Nifty CNC'd harness bar/chassis brace mounted at original seat belt mounting locations on B-pillars
-- Missing trim bits for C-pillars

Questions:
-- How should I feel about those compression numbers?
-- About how much would it run for me to reinstall the stock heating system?
-- How concerned should I be about the rust?

And of course, how much do you think it's worth?

blitzkrieg59

80 views without even a guess?

masterdave

Very rough ball park 7K-13K, these cars are not very hot right now and can be had for cheap. Pics will make a difference here. With out any paperwork on the rebuild I would have an issue trusting it, especially if they dont know how many miles were on the engine when it was rebuilt.

Regards
Dave

blitzkrieg59

I do have paperwork on the rebuild, but the mileage unfortunately wasn't written down. The shop where it was done is still in business. I'm thinking of giving them a call on the off chance that they remember the car. Thanks for the response. I'll snap some photos of the car once I can pull it out of the cramped garage it's hibernating in.

TT Oversteer

I have a 77 911s that is perfectly rust free, has a beautiful stock interior, glass, trim, etc all very nice. It also came with a 3.2 installed, although it needed valve guides. I paid $12k for it.

With your example I would be concerned by the rust. When a fully galvanized body shows signs of rust in multiple areas after a repaint there is trouble. The improperly closing door is most likely a sign of repair.

The compression seems low to me on several cylinders. And you have fuel injection issues? Check your work orders to see if this engine has time certs or case savers installed. Pulling studs is a primary issue with the 2.7

Without any pictures? I think this car is worth $7 to $8k in today's market. I would stay away because you can find a nice example for less than this car would cost after repairs are done. Good luck as this can be tricky when friendships are involved.

MongooseGA

Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't they start galvanizing the body in '78? Meaning the '77s are not galvanized?


To add to the thread, I bought a '77 911S with a 3.0 swap, SC wide fender flares, full interior, some rust (minor bubbles in 2-3 spots in the paint, moderate amount under the battery area) aftermarket wheels with good tires, aftermarket front sway bar, upgraded front oil cooler, VERY expensive Recaro race seats, and turbo style front lip and whale tale for just under $7k. From what I've found, my purchase was near theft and probably not what the market usually calls for.

The body has 150k+ and the engine supposedly has ~80k.

Search my username to see the car and more details. It's not a cream puff by any means, but a pretty good driver

MillenniumFalcon

The rust that you can plainly see is only the tip of the iceberg my friend......

Example:

pic #1: exterior of bottom of door (looks rust free, right?)

pic #2: inside of bottom of that same door- underneath the seam sealer it is completely rusted out from front to back along that same section of the door...

theiceman

Tbere is no way in hell i am giving you even close to 7 k for that car


Rustbucket potential for sure
Also who rebuilds an engine then 6 years later needs pistons and cylinders
Something is wrong
I dont care about studs and as mentioned what about case inserts
These are NOT a desirable car in general. Hold out for an sc

Ed Hughes

Same with me-I'd say it's a serious project car-$2-3K max.

spanky

I wont flat out say look away, desire is in the eye of the beholder but I would either pay as little as possible up front or hold out for an SC.and expect to pay market value for a good example. At the first sign of rust I would walk away. Period!!! I have a 75 S and it was then and still is in pristine shape with zero rust anywhere on it, perfect paint, and I paid $15,000 yrs ago. That being said I still had the 2.7 engine go south on me 3 or 4 yrs( pulled casing studs) into ownership and had to pay for a rebuild. Happy hunting!!

TT Oversteer

77 is the first year of the fully zinc dipped bodies. 76 and 75, I believe had varying degrees of galvanized areas. I think 74 and earlier were not galvanized.

MillenniumFalcon

I'm sure this has been posted a bazillion times, but for those who find themselves driving vehicles that probably should have been parted out, you might enjoy this..

Edgy01

Porsche began zinc galvanizing the 911 bodies in 1975. Partially. The full body galvanization came in 1976. However, you have to keep in mind that zinc galvanization has a warrantee of ten years from the factory against perforation. That means that after 1986 on a 1976 car anything can happen. Zinc galvanization simply does not last forever. Don't be misled here.

To be as brutally frank and honest as I can be, the 1977 911S was notably one of the worst if not THE worst year for a 911. (I should know, I ordered one new in 1977). It was plagued with issues involving both the body and the engine. The engine issues of course are the magnesium cases--all to save what, 23 lbs? It was a gross error by Porsche particularly as the engine displacement grew and more and more was expected from them, coupled with anti-smog measures. It worked fine in the simpler 2.0 and 2.2 and 2.4 liter days.

The body was the last of the true fully narrow body cars. In 1978 the 911SC was introduced and everyone pretty much prefers the extra flares in back that could then cover up to a 9x16 inch Fuchs alloy. Prior to that on the 1977 models you were calling it close with 7x15s.

The only reason anyone would look at a 1977 car is because the price is attractive. Don't go down that slope. The added money it will take to rescue it will put you into a much nicer and cleaner car from the 911SC and 3.0 liter engine era.

mfyoung1086

I hate JC for taking that beautiful long hood from us