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my 1989 Corner Balance data

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Old 09-28-2012, 04:24 PM
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dshepp806
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Default my 1989 Corner Balance data

Greetings to all,

Wanted to share some CB data from my recent visit with my P-wrench. (Please ignore that diagonal line).

Over the past few months (previous to his work), I've installed:

WEVO RARB rear sway bar mounts
Lemfoerder drop links
rear sway bar bushings
Rear shocks (I decided to go stock with the BOGES,..she's a street car)
Porsche motor mounts
Front shock inserts (again, BOGES)
ball joints and hardware
...I think that's it?

Shop was tasked with the following installs/cals:

front sway bar bushings
new steering rack (she had a slight pop in the steering wheel when turning L/R)
Turbo tie rods/boots
fresh sneakers (Bridgestone's Potenzas, Pole positions) all around
Corner Balance
4 wheel alignment
(ride height was not altered,..she's at a nice height,..not too low, at all,..left alone)

They dropped my weight (197 lbs) in the seat and came up with the posted data. Just wanted to get my fellow rennlisters' comments. Since she's relegated to street use and long trips, I made sure I populated the bonnet with what I wnated in there and asked him to NO TOUCH the "layout within the bonnet"!!!!!!!!!

I'll post the alignment numbers a bit later.

Thanks, in advance, for any observations from those "in the know".

BEST to all,

Doyle
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:25 PM
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dshepp806
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The DW weights are WITH the driver weight included,...I guess to show me the with and without?

Doyle
Old 09-28-2012, 04:42 PM
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ivangene
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wait...are you saying he balanced it with no driver weight?

mine is balanced WITH driver dead on front - a tad off in the back just like yours because that is the way the back is unless we spend MO MONEY !
Old 09-28-2012, 05:55 PM
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MillenniumFalcon
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I'd really like to see your alignment numbers....
Old 09-28-2012, 05:57 PM
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dshepp806
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No,..all final balancing was done with driver weight in the seat...as I understood it, Ivangene. (Now you've me wondering...)These guys race and are top notch people, so I assume they know to CB with actual in-place driver weight.

. I'll always defer to seeing the opinions of others (however),..as I wish to learn more about it.

Doyle






Doyle
Old 09-28-2012, 06:03 PM
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Then comes the following alignment specs, as promised:

Thanks!

Doyle
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:23 PM
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ivangene
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nice - this looks like an agresive street alingment
Old 09-29-2012, 01:26 AM
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Thanks for posting your numbers..
Old 09-29-2012, 02:40 AM
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Droops83
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Doyle,

'87-89 Carreras usually weigh in the 2700-lb range, so 2959 w/ your weight seems reasonable. Do you know how much fuel was on board at the time? Fuel weighs about 6 lbs a gallon so it is something to consider.

The diagonal line across the sheet with 49% denotes that the cross weight came out to 49%. A perfect corner balance would result in 50% cross weight, meaning that the sum of the left front and right rear corner weights and the sum of the right front and left rear corner weights would be exactly the same. If the cross weights are even, then the car will in theory handle the same in left or right turns. However, since yours is a street car with rubber suspension bushings and changing luggage and passenger weights, getting dead nuts 50% is not critical. As long as you are close the car should feel good.

Your alignment specs are not too aggressive and should be good for tire wear.

Have fun and enjoy your car.
Old 09-29-2012, 03:22 AM
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race911
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Originally Posted by Droops83
A perfect corner balance would result in 50% cross weight, meaning that the sum of the left front and right rear corner weights and the sum of the right front and left rear corner weights would be exactly the same. If the cross weights are even, then the car will in theory handle the same in left or right turns. However, since yours is a street car with rubber suspension bushings and changing luggage and passenger weights, getting dead nuts 50% is not critical. As long as you are close the car should feel good.
Not to mention that a car with stock roll bars doesn't allow you to zero out the preload, and you basically end up taking what you can get.

(I have no idea how we got cars as close as we got them prior to electronic scales being affordable.)
Old 09-29-2012, 03:52 AM
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Thanks for the comments and observations.

The gas tank was a little above 3/4 full.

I must say that the car feels great (always does with new rubber). I was told that the tie rods will settle a bit,..they certainly feel different than the stock tie rods,..it feels a bit "smoother" when quickly turning L/R. Before, it was a quick responsive twitch (almost).

For now, it's time to drive that tire coating off of the new rubber......get her to be a bit more sticky,..then have a nice go of it to see how she handles now. So far, so good. The ride is certainly better now than it was months ago (with the 23 year old parts on board---especially shocks).

Thanks, again.

Doyle
Old 09-29-2012, 11:26 AM
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ivangene
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I assume you mean t-bars...not tie rods...the tie rods wont change I dont think

did you stick with stock bars - I didnt see your build sheet
yep $ well spent though - I always say one thing about these cars is when you pour money at them, they accept it all
Old 09-29-2012, 12:33 PM
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No Sir, I meant tie rods. I had him go ahead and install turbo tie rods (upgrading from the original 23 year old STOCK tie rods). The torsion bar is the stock size that originally came on the car. He mentioned something about all of "it" (not the torsion bar) settling in over a short time....maybe he was referencing something other than tie rods..I dunno......AFAIC,..SHE'S SETTLED!!!!!!!!!!

You are SO correct: they do ACCEPT it all quite nicely (unlike my Wife!) Have made several runs today, getting that coating off of the new tires.....man is she driving nicely,..starting to get sticky!!!!!!!!!! She's got fresh plugs, distributor cap and rotor.....the recent Wong chip load has taken this car to the next level. I couldn't be happier, Ivangene. Not much left to do (seat switch?) before she goes in for new paint and interior restoration at the end of this year.

BEST!

Doyle
Old 09-29-2012, 12:39 PM
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Well,..there is one other thing to get checked (adjusted) and that's the idle mixture. I dropped in a fresh O2 sensor a few months back and I readjusted my my base idle. Although rock steady, I still want to get this quantified. Am considering buying my own meter to do so. Any reccomendations on a good CO meter?

Doyle
Old 09-29-2012, 08:11 PM
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If you're going to buy a handheld unit like the Innovate LM-2, then my only advice would be to purchase it from a vendor that has a no-hassle, no questions asked return policy.

I got mine from Jegs, and they warranty everything for one year. I used my LM-2 twice, and then it stopped working (a common complaint, from what I understand)... I returned it to them with the return form, and my new one is already on its way!

Also, Jegs price matches many items and since Amazon had it for about $80 cheaper, they took $80 off of their price. Not a bad deal. If the LM-2 bites the dust again, I am going to exchange it for a gauge kit and permanently install a system in the car.


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