Do I need a bump steer kit????
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I am in the midst of lowering my car to Euro spec ride height, and after searching the forum, I can't get a clear answer on whether I should install a bump steer kit (the simple one with spacers) after I bring the car down to Euro spec.
My understanding is that the bump steer kit is used when the car is lowered beyond Euro spec height. I really don't want to raise the steering rack and create more problems for myself and then have to get another alignment after having to pull the spacers out...
I understand that fender lip height is where the ride height measurement is taken, but that tire/wheel size also contributes to the resultant static A-arm angle when setting riding height from the fender lip. My set up is going to be with 16 inch wheels and 205/55/16 tires that will approximate the stock tire diameter it would have with stock 15 inch wheels, so in essence, I'm just taking a stock USA car and lowering it Euro height.
What has been your experience with having to use the steering rack spacers?
Oh, one other thing: After lowering the car, is is necessary to trim the little bump stop snubbers on the top of the front struts (Boge)? Did the Euro cars have a shorter rubber piece in there? I took the struts apart, and no metal spacing washers for the top of the struts were found in there.
My understanding is that the bump steer kit is used when the car is lowered beyond Euro spec height. I really don't want to raise the steering rack and create more problems for myself and then have to get another alignment after having to pull the spacers out...
I understand that fender lip height is where the ride height measurement is taken, but that tire/wheel size also contributes to the resultant static A-arm angle when setting riding height from the fender lip. My set up is going to be with 16 inch wheels and 205/55/16 tires that will approximate the stock tire diameter it would have with stock 15 inch wheels, so in essence, I'm just taking a stock USA car and lowering it Euro height.
What has been your experience with having to use the steering rack spacers?
Oh, one other thing: After lowering the car, is is necessary to trim the little bump stop snubbers on the top of the front struts (Boge)? Did the Euro cars have a shorter rubber piece in there? I took the struts apart, and no metal spacing washers for the top of the struts were found in there.
Last edited by MillenniumFalcon; 08-18-2012 at 11:55 PM.
#2
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Dave,
Measure the inclination of your tie-rods after you've set the car at desired height (and after corner-weighting). If they are not level and angled up toward the struts, I would install a rack spacer kit.
Measure the inclination of your tie-rods after you've set the car at desired height (and after corner-weighting). If they are not level and angled up toward the struts, I would install a rack spacer kit.
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I've also wondered about this issue. Steve....Do I understand correctly that the goal should be to have the tie-rods parallel to the ground regardless of what your car height is set to?
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Well,......thats a "Kentucky Windage" guide that gets you pretty close for the majority of applications,......
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For optimal handling, one would "bump-steer" the car on the alignment machine for precision adjustment of tie-rod angles using a kit such as the ER one.
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u want them level w/the ground. if the front of the car is lowered past a certain point, the tie rod would be angled UP from the rack to the strut. and thats no good.
ive had the spacer kit in there forever. if u lower it ull probably need it.
and if u do install the spacers- do one at a time or else things can get nasty down there
ive had the spacer kit in there forever. if u lower it ull probably need it.
and if u do install the spacers- do one at a time or else things can get nasty down there
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#8
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Generally speaking, you want the tie rods parallel to the ground on a lowered car.
At US stock ride height, they will be slightly angled downwards toward the struts.
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Update:
I'm still waiting on an alignment, but I finally got the car all back together and took her out for a spin today... good times!
I'm still waiting on an alignment, but I finally got the car all back together and took her out for a spin today... good times!
Last edited by MillenniumFalcon; 09-06-2012 at 01:01 AM.
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I would add to double check that the u-joints of the tie rods are level and parallel with the ground; in other words, you want to be sure there is no binding as the suspension cycles up/down. Sounds obvious but you'd be amazed at how often it's overlooked.
Also, the most accurate means of measuring ride height is by measuring off hard points on the chassis (workshop manual will illustrate best locations) - body panels are not always symmetrical.
Looks great!
Also, the most accurate means of measuring ride height is by measuring off hard points on the chassis (workshop manual will illustrate best locations) - body panels are not always symmetrical.
Looks great!
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Thanks guys.
That Guy: Yeah, I reviewed the manual first, but I see that many owners disregard the manual and set the car where they want it... which I am also guilty of. When adjustable rear arms are in my budget, I may play around more with the ride height, and raise it back up slightly.
As it turned out, I did in fact need the rack spacers- but just barely. I also installed the turbo tie rods prior to lowering the car.
And you are right about body panels not being symmetrical- that was driving me crazy until I crawled underneath the car and started taking measurements from hard points.
That Guy: Yeah, I reviewed the manual first, but I see that many owners disregard the manual and set the car where they want it... which I am also guilty of. When adjustable rear arms are in my budget, I may play around more with the ride height, and raise it back up slightly.
As it turned out, I did in fact need the rack spacers- but just barely. I also installed the turbo tie rods prior to lowering the car.
And you are right about body panels not being symmetrical- that was driving me crazy until I crawled underneath the car and started taking measurements from hard points.