WW911

My 89 Carrrera sometimes won't start until the 3rd or 4th attempt. Engine turns over fine and when it does start, runs perfectly. Most of the time I can put my hand on the DME relay and when the key is turned to "ON", I can feel a slight click ( I assume the relay is being energized) and it usually starts on the 1st or 2nd try. However, at times when I turn the key on, the relay emits a loud, rapid clicking noise that doesn't stop until the key is turned back off. This is usually the beginning of the multiple attempts to start. I installed a new relay ( URO Parts 911-618-154-00) and still the same thing. Intermittant rapid clicking with no pattern of when it will happen ( hot car .. cold car .. doesn't matter). Is it possible I got 2 bad relays ? Any thoughts ??

Alpine 88

This isn't the problem I've had when my DME relay has failed. When mine has failed, the inline fuse that's in the front of the car blows, I get no power at all anywhere in the car, the car won't start, nothing happens when I turn the key. Change the fuse (either 7.5 or 10 amps, I forget which) and either it blows again or the car starts fine. The problem recurs intermittently until I change the relay, in which event it recurs a few years later.

dshepp806

I've an '89, too.

You might want to check your ground integrity.

As to DME relays,..I've learned my frikin lesson in dealing with the potted (non-Porsche junk) relays already,..yes,..two in a row fricked me...so,..NOW I only use the DME relays from Porsche,..YMMV.

The "clicking" observation does seem electrical, in nature. You are VERY sure it is the DME relay providing this "clicking"? Time to break out a VOM to see what's up.

Always good to test your fuel pressures, as well (electrical issues, aside).

Alpine 88: which FUSE are you referencing?

BEST!

Doyle

WW911

Yes, positive about the relay. I had one hand on the relay as I turned the key with the other...felt the constant vibration as well as heard the rapid click. I've spent a ton of money on fishing trips trying to figure this out. I tend to agree with you....maybe it's time to get a genuine Porsche part.

dshepp806

Aside from the "male" end of things (i.e., "relay),..one might want to inspect the socket "femaile" side of the relay assembly,...although you don't hear much of a connectivity failure on this female side, I had a friend who chased his frckin' tail a bit, only to find a bad "female" connection (in the socket),..I know: it's a long shot. NOTE: this discussion is strictly within the realm of DME relay anomolies.

You could possibly find that the DME relay is not the source problem. Certainly want to be sure grounds are good to go,...not to mention the ignition switch integrity.

Make sure your fuse block is nicely clean and with sufficient tension.

As to "tons of money",...what would that cover?

Best to you,

Doyle

WW911

I had electrical and fuel checked out thoroughly and had reference sensors replaced (don't have receipts in front of me right now to be exact). Of course it left the shop starting perfectly, but the problem manifested itself a little later. Didn't think about the female connections.. will check it out. Fuse block is clean and fuses tight. Is there a ground right there at the DME ? Would it make sense to remove and reinstall the DME just to possibly clean (?) connections as they are plugged and unplugged? There is a large white connector in the front that looks as if it is a pin connector. Your statement about the ignition switch intrigues me...... Usually the rapid clicking does disappear after turning the ignition to off and then back to the on position... Thanks for these ideas.

dshepp806

Starter good to go?

Doyle

WW911

Yep .... starter good and new battery .......

WW911

Update to Carrera starting problem ...... had shop install a spare ECU and problem is gone ......
If only I had done that a year ago!

Carrera3.2LG50

Couple years ago I had a no start issue. I chased everything I could think of... followed no start checklists I found on this site and PP. After getting it towed to my shop, they did exactly the same thing: put in a spare ECU and it started right up.

They sent my ECU to these guys to get it repaired: http://www.ecudoctors.com/ and it's been fine since then.

mstier

Doyle, sorry to take so long to answer--just saw this, for some reason. I'm the same person as Alpine 88. Don't remember why i have two accounts, something about two computers.

Anyway, there's an inline fuse in the front of the trunk, just in front of and to the left of the battery as you face the car with the battery at your right hand. The fuse have a little cover over it, and is one of those flat pull-out fuses just like the ones in the fuse box to the right of and behind the battery.

Amber Gramps

Swap out the computer with a buddy's known good one. Pinpointed the same no start issue for me. Sometimes it took several turns of the key to get my engine to fire, other times it fired at first tap.

theiceman

Doug. issue was solved with swap out as you suggested .. updates just got a little out of sync. Fractured Solder Joint i would imagine. Probably has to be reflowed.