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Old 08-07-2012, 08:32 PM
  #16  
budge96
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First year cabrio manual top ,looks in excellent shape ..a few weeps and drips particularly from an earlier SC running synthetc isn't abnormal, I'd recommend a switch to non-synthetic most anything
20W50 and your drips may just dissapear.
The trans grind most likely is bushings as previously stated but a fluid change (which may never have been done) could do wonders.
Enloy it looks great! Bert
Old 08-08-2012, 12:11 AM
  #17  
Ed Hughes
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Originally Posted by amber lamps
Synthetic oil will leak through places conventional oil won't.....and leaks in a 911 is just part of the deal. Not a big deal for the case to leak, but the heads makes me think it's the return tubes not actually the heads.

The tranny would be a 915 and something I know nothing about.
Where was anything said about heads? The cylinders can leak at the base, and that would bug me. Based on that info alone, I would have had the headstuds checked. For them to say "it was running well so head studs shouldn't be a problem" is irresponsible. Do you trust the shop or know of their reputation or expertise?

Go back to Dino oil or Brad Penn, and see what happens. Going through a 911 engine and/or trans is very expensive. Good luck.
Old 08-08-2012, 12:40 AM
  #18  
race911
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When was this car imported, and who federalized it? Problem I saw being right in the wheelhouse of these gray market cars in the mid-'80s was rampant odometer fraud. An early '80s car would, as best we could tell, have 50-60K KM on it, and miraculously be federalized with a US odo showing 10-20K miles. (I did too many clutches, and fixed too many 1st gear dog teeth on supposedly next-to-zero mile gray market 911s/930s.)

As far as cylinder base weeping, yeah what Ed said. And crankcase half weeping on an aluminum case? Probably is coming from elsewhere, and trickling down.

And yeah, those prices quoted are ballpark for fixing everything you can possibly fix at retail prices. On the other hand, a resourceful owner doing it all himself could get the car in better shape than 90% of them out there for 1/4 the price. IF the car truly needs that much work. Which I doubt.
Old 08-08-2012, 12:43 AM
  #19  
race911
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And one more thing on the late SC (and 3.2L) Euros with their higher compression. I fried rings and cracked pistons on both the 3.0 and 3.2 Euros I had in my SC way back when. At the track, and during hot weather. I'm sure you've got 93 octane available where you live. We don't in CA.
Old 08-08-2012, 07:10 AM
  #20  
wolds
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The owner has the original owners manual that goes with the car. I'm hoping that I will see dates of service in it. If there are questions on the true odometer reading this may help with that. I have no history with the shop that did the work, they are up in Ann Arbor, 3-1/2 hours from where I live. Yes, we have 93 octane here in Ohio, I feed it to my BMW R1200RT along with 76 R60/6 that I own. I got a thing for air cooled boxers I guess. I'll be using Brad Penn in the crankcase, Swepco in the transaxle and Super Blue in the brake system per the forums recommendation. This is just a nice street car, there won't be any track days for me unless I end up buying a coupe later on. Warren
Old 08-08-2012, 01:07 PM
  #21  
GothingNC
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Or you can use Kendall for the gearbox

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...vs-swepco.html
Old 08-08-2012, 02:08 PM
  #22  
wolds
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Thanks for that info. How can I tell if I have a limited slip rearend? I'm assuming I need to know that up front. Warren
Old 08-08-2012, 11:12 PM
  #23  
spanky
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Welcome to RL. Very nice car!!!



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