White smoke after rebuild - HELP
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just finish the rebuil and started the engine ( '97 993 ) following the procedure on Wayne's book
The plan was to let it idle at 2000RPM for 20 min, but there is a LOT of white smoke coming of the exhaust, so I turned it off after 5 min
Ok, I let it run for 20 min, and I had the impression the amount of white smoke had gone down significantly. So I changed the oil and got ready to go for the first drive, as per Waynes book instructions. But, the engine started throwing a lot of white smoke again. I run it a couple of blocks and back home. Let it idle at 2000RPM for 5 more minutes and the white smoke would not stop.
I took the exhaust and headers out and it looks that Cyl 6 is the one throwing oil. So, I decided to perform a leak down test.
I tested the three cylinders on bank 2 (cyl 4-6). I got pretty consistent leak numbers. 18% on cyl 1; 15% on Cyl 5 and 19% on Cyl 6. On all of them you can hear a bit of air going to the crankcase. No noise on the intake of exhaust sides.*
I was surprised to see such high numbers on an engine with new rings, but I thought it might be that the rings are not seated yet.*
What confussed me is that Cyl 6 which is the one which seems to be throwing oil (wet exhaust oulet and manifold) did not show any difference with the other cylinders.
Can anyone suggest how to go from here, before the obvious "take everything apart again!!" ?
thanks in advance
The plan was to let it idle at 2000RPM for 20 min, but there is a LOT of white smoke coming of the exhaust, so I turned it off after 5 min
Ok, I let it run for 20 min, and I had the impression the amount of white smoke had gone down significantly. So I changed the oil and got ready to go for the first drive, as per Waynes book instructions. But, the engine started throwing a lot of white smoke again. I run it a couple of blocks and back home. Let it idle at 2000RPM for 5 more minutes and the white smoke would not stop.
I took the exhaust and headers out and it looks that Cyl 6 is the one throwing oil. So, I decided to perform a leak down test.
I tested the three cylinders on bank 2 (cyl 4-6). I got pretty consistent leak numbers. 18% on cyl 1; 15% on Cyl 5 and 19% on Cyl 6. On all of them you can hear a bit of air going to the crankcase. No noise on the intake of exhaust sides.*
I was surprised to see such high numbers on an engine with new rings, but I thought it might be that the rings are not seated yet.*
What confussed me is that Cyl 6 which is the one which seems to be throwing oil (wet exhaust oulet and manifold) did not show any difference with the other cylinders.
Can anyone suggest how to go from here, before the obvious "take everything apart again!!" ?
thanks in advance
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
here you can see a video of the engine running. You will notice at there is no smoke coming initialy, but after 25-30 second is starts coming out.
http://youtu.be/j2IGW0uM-T0
Let me know what you think
Thanks
__________________
http://youtu.be/j2IGW0uM-T0
Let me know what you think
Thanks
__________________
Last edited by mmasse; 07-28-2012 at 04:56 PM.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Jack...I had posted a wring link :-)
this one works, as well as yours
http://youtu.be/j2IGW0uM-T0
this one works, as well as yours
http://youtu.be/j2IGW0uM-T0
#5
Intermediate
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Doesn't have to be the rings, it could be the valve guides. Did you touch the heads?
Otherwise I don't know if I would even call that oil smoke, its too white. Looks almost like coolant but that's not possible.
Condensation in the exhaust maybe? Have you smelled it?
Did you deck the heads and block, did you torque properly? It could be oil passing between the head and deck if its warped. Metal gets hot and expands which causes oil to weep passed. Motor cools and contracts and your compression test is normal.
Otherwise I don't know if I would even call that oil smoke, its too white. Looks almost like coolant but that's not possible.
Condensation in the exhaust maybe? Have you smelled it?
Did you deck the heads and block, did you torque properly? It could be oil passing between the head and deck if its warped. Metal gets hot and expands which causes oil to weep passed. Motor cools and contracts and your compression test is normal.
Last edited by Saml01; 07-28-2012 at 05:27 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
But, then i woul have broken the ring on all three cylinders, since all gave consisten leak numbers. It tha really too high for an angine with not seated rings? I have no clue about what right numbers should be in this condition.
#9
Intermediate
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You really should ask what the numbers are on a broken in engine and a fresh rebuild.
According to Pete Zimmermans book, 10% is the factory maximum. However, the fact that you have consistency across cylinders makes me scratch my head. Either you are performing the test wrong, your equipment has a high margin of error, or its something else.
Did you use new head studs?
Whats the procedure for torquing the heads on these motors? Did you follow them to the letter? I know some engines are fairly complicated. Torque all to 25 ftlbs, then torque to 40ftlbs, then back off a quarter turn while working from the inside out. Crazy stuff like that.
According to Pete Zimmermans book, 10% is the factory maximum. However, the fact that you have consistency across cylinders makes me scratch my head. Either you are performing the test wrong, your equipment has a high margin of error, or its something else.
Did you use new head studs?
Whats the procedure for torquing the heads on these motors? Did you follow them to the letter? I know some engines are fairly complicated. Torque all to 25 ftlbs, then torque to 40ftlbs, then back off a quarter turn while working from the inside out. Crazy stuff like that.