Tuning and tinkering on my '75
07-26-2012, 03:40 PM
#16
Team Owner
sorry been out of town .. i only replaced the seals because i was replacing the air box. otherwise i wouldnt have.
When i repainted my wheels i just taped off the anodized section as it wasnt woth hassling with and it turned out fine.
When i repainted my wheels i just taped off the anodized section as it wasnt woth hassling with and it turned out fine.
07-26-2012, 04:11 PM
#17
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Iceman- wasn't worth the hassle?? Boy, is that an understatement.... I wish I could have left the anodizing alone, but one of the wheels on my car had already had an attempt by a PO to remove large portions of the anodizing in 3 places- and if I'm going to strip one wheel, I'm going to have to strip them all. I now know why shops are charging upwards of $1000 to refinish a set of these Fuchs.
I think I'm going to gently use a flapper wheel sander at 200 to 500 grit to get at the scratches and the anodizing, then do the whole routine up to 1000 grit, then to brushed finish from there.
And the pair of 16x6's I bought aren't exactly the same as the 16x6's on the car- slight differences...must be early and late wheels. But not that noticeable.
even worse news- I'm actually considering polishing the pedals on these wheels. Whatever I decide, It'll look nice.
Planning to pull the CIS system later this week. I'm going to go ahead and replace the airflow meter housing gasket, fuel dist O-ring, Throttle O-ring, etc... since it will be mush easier with everything out, and the gaskets and parts aren't much money.All possibility of air leaks must be eliminated before I go to adjust the A/F ratio on this thing.
I think I'm going to gently use a flapper wheel sander at 200 to 500 grit to get at the scratches and the anodizing, then do the whole routine up to 1000 grit, then to brushed finish from there.
And the pair of 16x6's I bought aren't exactly the same as the 16x6's on the car- slight differences...must be early and late wheels. But not that noticeable.
even worse news- I'm actually considering polishing the pedals on these wheels. Whatever I decide, It'll look nice.
Planning to pull the CIS system later this week. I'm going to go ahead and replace the airflow meter housing gasket, fuel dist O-ring, Throttle O-ring, etc... since it will be mush easier with everything out, and the gaskets and parts aren't much money.All possibility of air leaks must be eliminated before I go to adjust the A/F ratio on this thing.
07-26-2012, 04:16 PM
#18
Team Owner
sounds good about the CIS... youre crazy to do the wheels ..
oh make sure you can get your hands on an LM1 after to set up your base CO adjustment as this will be necesary after rebuilding the CIS. I still havent seen a cr with the microswich you mention and maybe yours was updated to be like mine with the thermo/time switch ?
oh make sure you can get your hands on an LM1 after to set up your base CO adjustment as this will be necesary after rebuilding the CIS. I still havent seen a cr with the microswich you mention and maybe yours was updated to be like mine with the thermo/time switch ?
07-26-2012, 04:51 PM
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My system does have a thermo time switch.. I read that microswitch cars used the switch for WOT enrichment, but I see that some year cars do not have them.. if after I get my CIS system out, and I can find no associated wiring within the engine harness, then I'll let the microswitch obsession go...
Any ideas about renting a meter to set the CO? I cannot believe that guys without lambda systems have to go out and buy meters and have bungs welded in to set the A/F ratio on these cars...what did they do back in 1975..?
[EDIT] Pic's below.
Pic 1- CIS system (1975?) Part #10 = microswitch on throttle body which is acted upon by the threaded adjustable screw on the throttle plate lever arm.
Pic 2- CIS system without the microswitch (1976?) (this system has the extra pipe in the rubber intake boot behind the airflow meter)
Any ideas about renting a meter to set the CO? I cannot believe that guys without lambda systems have to go out and buy meters and have bungs welded in to set the A/F ratio on these cars...what did they do back in 1975..?
[EDIT] Pic's below.
Pic 1- CIS system (1975?) Part #10 = microswitch on throttle body which is acted upon by the threaded adjustable screw on the throttle plate lever arm.
Pic 2- CIS system without the microswitch (1976?) (this system has the extra pipe in the rubber intake boot behind the airflow meter)
Last edited by MillenniumFalcon; 07-27-2012 at 02:01 AM.
07-29-2012, 01:50 AM
#22
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Tailpipe is handy. No cat, no problem. (And no matter what's commonly believed, setting the CO properly on a CIS system by reading voltage off the oxygen sensor is no substitute for using a proper gas analyzer.)
07-29-2012, 09:46 AM
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Late for work... but but here's another view, looking over the oil filter at it. It has a plastic **** that can be turned in either direction after loosening the gold wingnut on top!
07-29-2012, 01:23 PM
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Iceman- I'll certainly ask around when it comes time to set my CO.... I guess I've got to get a bung installed first..
g-50- I was hoping it was the boost control ****... seriously, though- not clear on it's purpose...if it's supporting the fender, shouldn't I leave it in (althought I don't see how it could be supporting anything right now)?
g-50- I was hoping it was the boost control ****... seriously, though- not clear on it's purpose...if it's supporting the fender, shouldn't I leave it in (althought I don't see how it could be supporting anything right now)?
07-30-2012, 09:49 AM
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I'm going to pull that thing out of the engine compartment this weekend and have a look at it..
After spending far too much time trying to remove the anodizing with Oven Cleaner (Blue Can), I blasted two of the wheel and got it all off. I painted the center silver of one to see how it would look...
The 6" wide wheels do not have the deeper "dish" of the 7's or 8's, and so they look very different to me- not nearly as attractive.
I really like the silver with the brushed finish rim, but no matter how much time I spend on it, as soon as I bring it out into the sunlight, it's nothing but scratches, even after wet sanding from 500,600,1000,2000, then tripoli, then 000 Norton synthetic steel wool. The pits left in the aluminum after removing the anodizing are quite deep in places. I am going to have the wheels powder coated, but here's a pic of one wheel media blasted and one wheel brushed and painted silver center:
After spending far too much time trying to remove the anodizing with Oven Cleaner (Blue Can), I blasted two of the wheel and got it all off. I painted the center silver of one to see how it would look...
The 6" wide wheels do not have the deeper "dish" of the 7's or 8's, and so they look very different to me- not nearly as attractive.
I really like the silver with the brushed finish rim, but no matter how much time I spend on it, as soon as I bring it out into the sunlight, it's nothing but scratches, even after wet sanding from 500,600,1000,2000, then tripoli, then 000 Norton synthetic steel wool. The pits left in the aluminum after removing the anodizing are quite deep in places. I am going to have the wheels powder coated, but here's a pic of one wheel media blasted and one wheel brushed and painted silver center:
