Correct Attachment of Engine Sound Mat ?
#1
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm cleaning my engine compartment and preparing to repaint and install a new sound mat. The one I took out was glued in wth some sort of adhesive.
To me, it looks like it should stay in place with the 4 "body clamps" and the 2 bolt in plate/washers mid way down.
What is the correct way ?
TIA
To me, it looks like it should stay in place with the 4 "body clamps" and the 2 bolt in plate/washers mid way down.
What is the correct way ?
TIA
#2
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Cary,
I'm almost certain that this same question was raised a couple of months ago and I believe that John Walker gave a detailed answer on the correct way to go about removal and replacement. You may be able to read his remarks on the prior discussion board, or he may answer this again if he reads your question.
Richard.
I'm almost certain that this same question was raised a couple of months ago and I believe that John Walker gave a detailed answer on the correct way to go about removal and replacement. You may be able to read his remarks on the prior discussion board, or he may answer this again if he reads your question.
Richard.
#3
Technical Specialist
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Many use 3m HD spray adhesive to stick the mat to the rear firewall, and the body "clamps" just help to keep the edges from peeling off so soon.
#4
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
you should prefit the mat first, to make sure it will line up with all the items it has to go around. tuck the bottom of the mat into the gap behind the shock crossmember and hold it up against the panel to check fit. leave it tucked in, and brush contact cement on the mat and the panel, and let it tack up for 15-20 minutes. start at the bottom and work up as you press the mat to the panel. i've found that spray glue doesn't work real well. but there may be a better brand than 3M that i haven't tried.
[ 06-22-2001: Message edited by: john walkers workshop ]
[ 06-22-2001: Message edited by: john walkers workshop ]
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Although I have no personal experience with this job, I was told to check with an appliance repair shop for an adhesive that they use for installing insulation in dryer repairs. The advantage is....the application requires a contact adhesive that is not heat sensitive. Might be worth a try unless someone out there recommends a specific product.
#6
Burning Brakes
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I too have no direct experience, though have been told by several that 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (the Super is the important part) is the stuff to use. It is heat resistant (used for underhood applications) and easier to work with than spray stuff. This was also a topic on the old board and is worth searching.
Good luck!
Don
Good luck!
Don
#7
Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The 964 attaches a bit differently at the top- it uses wide screw on buttons to hold it- I improved on that by fashioning a aluminum strap drilled to allow the thing to act as a bridge between the buttons, to hold it even better. I like John Walker's idea of pre-fitting at the front behind the shocks- I didn't do that. It would have been easier. HOWEVER- I used 3-m super spray on adhesiove, and didn't let it set up first. If you have ever used contact cement, and don't get it exactly right the first try, you are screwed.
Trending Topics
#8
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
BTDTGTSH (been there, done that, got the sticky hands)
I use 3M Super 90 spray adhesive. It's about $15 per can.
Get everything lined up first, make sure it's all gonna fit. And make sure you get all the old leftover crap off - clean it with some laquer thinner or some such. Then spray some adhesive across the bottom on the car, and some on the mat. Let it dry for about 30 seconds, then put the bottom part in place, making sure to press it against the metal firmly. If it feels really cold thru the mat, you didn't let the adhesive dry enough - the cold is from the propellant of the adhesive.
Once you get the bottom "anchored" it's a matter of moving upwards, spraying adhesive on both pieces, then pressing the mat into place, and then hold it until it stays.
If you can recruit a helper to hold the "done" portion while you move on to the next section, it would make your like *much* easier.
Don't cheap out on the adhesive! The 3M "Trim Adhesive" or 3M "Super 70" are NOT good enough.
I use 3M Super 90 spray adhesive. It's about $15 per can.
Get everything lined up first, make sure it's all gonna fit. And make sure you get all the old leftover crap off - clean it with some laquer thinner or some such. Then spray some adhesive across the bottom on the car, and some on the mat. Let it dry for about 30 seconds, then put the bottom part in place, making sure to press it against the metal firmly. If it feels really cold thru the mat, you didn't let the adhesive dry enough - the cold is from the propellant of the adhesive.
Once you get the bottom "anchored" it's a matter of moving upwards, spraying adhesive on both pieces, then pressing the mat into place, and then hold it until it stays.
If you can recruit a helper to hold the "done" portion while you move on to the next section, it would make your like *much* easier.
Don't cheap out on the adhesive! The 3M "Trim Adhesive" or 3M "Super 70" are NOT good enough.