'82 911SC w/ '84 3.2 conversion. Just purchased and isnt running. Repair help thread!
04-07-2012, 02:18 PM
#46
I haddah Google dat
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Zim's is a great company. I like Kirk.
I also like Paragon. They are very nice folks too. http://www.paragon-products.com/Refe...61.210.002.htm
I also like Paragon. They are very nice folks too. http://www.paragon-products.com/Refe...61.210.002.htm
04-07-2012, 04:24 PM
#47
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I checked their BMW section, and found this: http://www.paragon-autoparts.com/Ref...61-210-002.htm
Looks identical from what I can tell!
Looks identical from what I can tell!
04-07-2012, 05:07 PM
#48
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Don't buy the eBay part. It could be a second, for all you know. You don't want to change this a second time! Be sure and gap it correctly, when you do. I've used an old sensor and bonded shim stock to the bottom to set the gap.
04-08-2012, 01:57 AM
#49
I haddah Google dat
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I checked their BMW section, and found this: http://www.paragon-autoparts.com/Ref...61-210-002.htm
Looks identical from what I can tell!
Looks identical from what I can tell!
04-09-2012, 01:59 PM
#50
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Wrong like not the right part or wrong like insulting someones grandmother without knowing she passed away 4 days ago?
Porsche: http://www.paragon-products.com/Phot...=0.261.210.005
BMW: http://www.paragon-autoparts.com/Pho...=0-261-210-002
I'd say they are the same based on the pics!
Also reference this thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post6021209
BMW part it is.
Porsche: http://www.paragon-products.com/Phot...=0.261.210.005
BMW: http://www.paragon-autoparts.com/Pho...=0-261-210-002
I'd say they are the same based on the pics!
Also reference this thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post6021209
BMW part it is.
Last edited by Ds1; 04-09-2012 at 02:32 PM.
04-12-2012, 11:46 PM
#52
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Did the new reference install today with my father... The 911 lives!!!
To start off the process, I tested the old sensor with an ohm meter. Much to my surprise, it read 1kohm! So, we tried starting the car for the heck of it. After a couple cranks, she fired right up (but didn't idle). After a minute of running, the car died and wouldn't restart. I checked the reference sensor again - bing bing bing! It was no longer reading.
We had our official culprit.
So, after about an hour we swapped out the sensor without too much trouble (thank the Lord). The BMW part was virtually identical; here is the direct comparison:
After we were all done, she fired right up after a crank or two. The engine seemed to run better and more stable overall, but still does not idle. And realllyyy isn't running that great. Heres a video! (I'm holding it at about 1100 RPMS and the idle surging is from me not having a steady foot)
Thanks everyone for all your help with getting the car running! This is a big step in the right direction, and after simply going through the engine it will be a great driver. Any help tracking down the no-idle or poor running condition is appreciated!
To start off the process, I tested the old sensor with an ohm meter. Much to my surprise, it read 1kohm! So, we tried starting the car for the heck of it. After a couple cranks, she fired right up (but didn't idle). After a minute of running, the car died and wouldn't restart. I checked the reference sensor again - bing bing bing! It was no longer reading.
We had our official culprit.
So, after about an hour we swapped out the sensor without too much trouble (thank the Lord). The BMW part was virtually identical; here is the direct comparison:
After we were all done, she fired right up after a crank or two. The engine seemed to run better and more stable overall, but still does not idle. And realllyyy isn't running that great. Heres a video! (I'm holding it at about 1100 RPMS and the idle surging is from me not having a steady foot)
Thanks everyone for all your help with getting the car running! This is a big step in the right direction, and after simply going through the engine it will be a great driver. Any help tracking down the no-idle or poor running condition is appreciated!
04-13-2012, 12:08 AM
#53
Rennlist Member
If this has sat a long time, you could have sticky injectors. You can tap on them while the car is running with a hammer handle, or something soft to get them to try and brake loose. You can jumper to them from a 9v battery to see if they click.
If you have an IR thermometer, you can shoot the exhaust from down below, and see which cylinders are not combusting. Or, if you have tough fingers....
If you have an IR thermometer, you can shoot the exhaust from down below, and see which cylinders are not combusting. Or, if you have tough fingers....
04-13-2012, 08:16 AM
#54
Team Owner
Good Joob. Now doesnt it feel better to actually troubleshoot a problem rather than jump on a forum and tell guys what parts you are going to be swapping ?
Sounds like it is running. I thought it might be that ref sensor and am glad the guys were able to jump in and show you how to test and confirm.
Now other than the old fuel Ed was talking about you likely have to fix hat was messed with before when soemone was trying to fix the ref sensor.
If compresion checks out good I would go to base idle and CO check. If the car wouldnt start it is highly likely these have been played with to try and get it to start. You will likely need a machine to do a base CO check but there is a very good thread going right now by Shannon on how to set up the base idle and verify it. You could probably start there. There are even a few tips on how to check the O2 sensor.
Sounds like it is running. I thought it might be that ref sensor and am glad the guys were able to jump in and show you how to test and confirm.
Now other than the old fuel Ed was talking about you likely have to fix hat was messed with before when soemone was trying to fix the ref sensor.
If compresion checks out good I would go to base idle and CO check. If the car wouldnt start it is highly likely these have been played with to try and get it to start. You will likely need a machine to do a base CO check but there is a very good thread going right now by Shannon on how to set up the base idle and verify it. You could probably start there. There are even a few tips on how to check the O2 sensor.
04-26-2012, 12:28 PM
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Hey guys!
I took a nice weeks vacation to Florida - it was very helpful to get out go the gray New York state.
Yesterday I started the car up for the heck of it, and noticed it was trying to idling for a few seconds then would die. I once had an incident with an 80's BMW 750il where the car wouldn't run because the plugs were so bad. When we pulled the plug to check spark on the 911, I noticed the plugs were well worn and also Bosch's. Which suck.
So with $10 and 15 minutes I changed the plugs for the heck of it. She still doesn't idle
But is definitely running better! I can't tell is it fixed the miss completely or not.
I'm trying to get the car to a shop to do a compression check, but my guys have been filled with spring work recently. I'll keep ya'll updated!
Thanks again for all the support thus far!
I took a nice weeks vacation to Florida - it was very helpful to get out go the gray New York state.
Yesterday I started the car up for the heck of it, and noticed it was trying to idling for a few seconds then would die. I once had an incident with an 80's BMW 750il where the car wouldn't run because the plugs were so bad. When we pulled the plug to check spark on the 911, I noticed the plugs were well worn and also Bosch's. Which suck.
So with $10 and 15 minutes I changed the plugs for the heck of it. She still doesn't idle
But is definitely running better! I can't tell is it fixed the miss completely or not.I'm trying to get the car to a shop to do a compression check, but my guys have been filled with spring work recently. I'll keep ya'll updated!
Thanks again for all the support thus far!
