dshepp806

I've been quite depressed as to the late Christopher Hitchen's passing a few evenings ago, as he was big in my life,...in fact, he (alone,..mainly) changed my life.....that aside,...so goes the inspiration to find something to do at mid-day today to distract myself from the scale of (priceless) loss to humanity today...on to Porsche.

Late September, my son-in-law and self changed the rear shocks on my '89////.
Pretty unremarkable, other than my argument and insistence that the torque setting (up top) be done with the weight "spring"......not while suspended....that aside,...great results, as we loaded the factory selected BOGES......SO: the rears have about 2 1/2 months of "settling"....

Today's work session was replacing the front BOGE struts with BOGES. Great threads on NOT having to remove anything to swing that baby out far enough tochange it in situ'.....very close tolerance,...and the advice to TAPE the fenderwell corners were useful(!).

As noted in previous threads, the existing assembly came out in pieces,...oil everywhere,..first one was a bitch,..2nd one, a cakewalk (duh?).

Man she rides better...the old ones were weak,..new,..much stiffer (relatively-speaking)....

I've still an errant motor mount that has pulled downward and is need of repair, as well as a broken driver side sway bar mount,. a new one, at that,..I've the Porsche ones in hand to get installed ASAP/......the WEVOS are in hand (both sides) and plan to get this repaired next week,..fresh sway bar rubber and new drop links....
'
Anywaze,...getting that cap on was a bitch,..had to use a pipe wrench and tee-shirt (I'm sure there's a tool for this round thing)....in any case,...I made damned sure it was snuggggggggg. top bolts torqued to 58 foot-lbs,..with fresh cupped washers, lock tabs and nuts.

All put away,..updating my spreadsheet,..walk outside for a bit,..glancing down at the oil pan used today, now housing all of the the removed pieces from today....I see what's shown in the pics...


And notice the missing parts ( 2 of 'em),..WHERETF are they, Doyle?

Nothing seemed unusual on intallation other than the driver side didn't want to come upward through the hole in the bonnet's upper mount...other side was easier,.....had to work this one up with help front a wrench,..using the nut finally pull it upward to final torque postion....

Freaking out,..I've spent the last 30 minutes in the work area looking for the missing extracted pieces...can't find 'em,...have yet to look through the damned miserable "tool bag"...but am duly queried, here.

To close my night I decided to head out (in darkness-relatively), with a tape measure (no, not to get ride height), but simply a measurement of the corners, dead center of the wheelwell, above tire.....

I would note she presently has 3/4's tank of fuel and one heavy **** toolkit in the bonnet on the passenger's side,.....tire pressures were not verified/checked,..they WERE 2 days ago...I run (COLD) 36 PSI on the rears and 29 PSI on the fronts...

I realize they will settle a bit,..experienced that with the rears......

nonetheless:

front-left: 25 3/8"
rear-left: 25 5/8

front right: 25 7/8"
front rear: 25 3/4"

AGAIN,..don't forget my motor mount issue....

Point is,..I'm freaked that I can't find these removed (alledged?) parts....I counted the threads up top and they match insofar as where they're torqued (no surprises there)..

I realize I've a few variables that could impact this "crude" measurement. the alledged missing part is well over an inch in height,..so I can't see where I may have left this piece within the assembly.

Maybe I better check the damned trash can,...else,..it all comes apart again to doublecheck (aside from the input here.

I will get an actual "ride height" tomorrow....

Like I said, she sure rides so softly...can't wait to get the tie rods freshened, and seel as the ball jonits, as they all looked "weathered"...

Any obesrvations here, guys?

My best,..HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!!!!!!!!!

Doyle

KNS

Nice job. I want to replace my original Boges with new Boges. Did you say that the rear sat higher after the new shocks went in?

dshepp806

It did, only slightly, at first. With time it settled in. I plan to get the ride heights today.

My concern is locating the 2 pieces in pic #1, at the top of the far right insert...I don't see the other two anywhere....no way in heeell I could have left those in there on the change out...will look around the yard this AM and in the damned trash can, I guess.....they HAVE to be somewhere, no?

I learned the need to cover the rotor with a garbage bag to keep the oil off of the rotor assembly. Geez,..had to spend a good bit of the intitial drive reseasoning the passenger side brake pads,..getting that crap off of the pad and rotor..initially, she pulled likes crazy when applying brakes....all is well now...

Still want to know where these 2 parts presently ARE!

Best!

Doyle

KNS

Is it possible you reinstalled them..? Do those pieces come with the new inserts as well?

whalebird

the missing parts may have stayed on the car when you removed the insert. I suppose it would have made it difficult, or even prohibited, the new strut insert going in. You may be able to remove the top nut, slowly jack up the car while holding the strut from inside the fender well and see if it remains on one side. Prolly be able to do this with the wheel still on. You will have to compress the strut by hand which is difficult on new inserts. Just a guess on my part, lets see what others have to say.
Sorry for your loss. I do know an "Afterimage" can deal a crushing blow.

dshepp806

Sorry for the delayed response.

Yes,..I had installed the UNNECC'Y pieces on ONE side!!!!!! (the mystery 1/2"!) Had to recheck (redo)both sides AGAIN, Sunday,..finding my dumb-**** mistake....all is well now,..she's riding like a new car!!!!!!!

Thanks,

Doyle

whalebird

I like the "green" oil pan...glad you found the lost parts. I think you may have a newfound "love" once you get those new SB brackets welded in. Chassis work is a different discipline than say, engine or body/paint and so forth...certainly light years away from your electron-centric specialty. Good job on getting in there and getting it done. I support and encourage your "green" initiative.

dshepp806

That open pan is great for my sequence.....also got the oil changed, too.

Funny,..your characterization of disciplines vs. "distance" (light years).....being an engineer, this body work,..welding,..painting is light years from what I know about it!!!!!! Things are sometimes (simply) relative, no?

Hope to get the WEVO's welded in this week,..fresh bushings there,.as well as fresh drop links....

Just a few steps away from getting all the rubber underneath new again,..to include tie rods, etc....I can feel a big difference already,...so, I believe you when you speak of the "new-found love territory"!!!!!!!!!!

Great reference to Afterimage........

Today's afterimage is a wracked body from doing this job twice!!!!!!! No power tools for me,..all manual...that strut cap was a bitch to get torqued,..I just gave it all I had,.....BIG pipe wrench was my friend on this strut project (both down below and up top)...I'm so frikin' sore ,..outa shape......my hands look like they've been through a war.....

STILL: I cowardly ignored getting the ball joints changed (I know,..I was RIGHT THERE STARING AT THE OLD WORN ONES!),..saving them for christmas eve!!!!!!!

Best to all of you out there!!!!!!!!

Doyle

dshepp806

WOW,..baby's riding really good these days!!!!!!

I'm convinced that I've a steering box issue (with some popping going on when turning,..intermittent, at that)...Since putting the front shocks on, I'm seeing LESS of that....(still,---ahem...). BIG difference in the ride with fresh shocks/inserts all around. These BOGES seem to do just fine,..car is VERY responsive and more solid......but NOT jaw-vibrating........she remains stock...

The removed shocks HAD to be originals,.......they would stay at any location I placed them! The new BOGES required a good degree of physical compression prior to mounting,......VERY healthy!!! Think I'll look for a stamp date on 'em....

What was odd, was that while viewing the stamp on the dust cover (BOGE---very crusty black), I decided to hit this assembly with brake cleaner and attempt to clean,......damned if I didn't get an orangish looking color afterwards......what's up with that? No doubt they're BOGES,....

In closing, I would mention that the removed assembly was a bit different than the installed assembly......the new inserts appear to be enclosed (encased?), whereas the removed ones had several pieces that were part and parcel to that production year (I guess),..very different looking,..and coming from the same manufacturer, +20 years later.

Sure hope I got it right,..I wasn't sure about how to get the strut cap torqued to spec,....tis' round. Pipe wrench,...GO)!!!!!!

Also, what in world does it mean (in the Bentley) when they spec a torque value,..then give you "a + value"?......First time I'd seen that...

Gonna stay with rubber, as to ANY bushings,....and, from Porsche, at that.....

BEST TO ALL!!!!!


Doyle

KNS

I was wondering about the torque + value as well. Great job overall!

dshepp806

Someone will chime on this "+" stuff......am waiting with baited breath.....(WTF is this?)

I certainly learned the hard way to cover the damned rotor assembly with a plastic bag,..as you don't want that strut oil dripping all over your brake and rotor assembly......ask me how I know. Ask me what happens when this happens....

I rechecked torque (up top) with the weight "sprung",..actually, slightly released pressure,..then retorqued that top nut while on the ground!

Best!

Doyle

dshepp806

Maybe I need to provide a new post on this Bentley "torque spec + (something)...?

I WILL say that to interpret it (seemingly?) means an "additive torque" value (a total, if you will). My interest lies in whether they are refering to a sequence of torquing the (2) values? I'm really not sure.

I really don't know mucho about all of this suspension stuff but garner PLENTY of information to work with from this (and others') forum......from an "electronic engineer's perspective,.....like "taking a course at a Tech School:.....good stuff for the trench.

Not sure if this is repetitive, but i would mention something (maybe not an issue), in the end,..regarding the torque values spec'd for those top-side nuts (ALL COMING FROM A LAYMAN, mind you NOT a day-2-day mechanic.....

I decided to go ahead on start with my rear SHOCKS, asking my dear and helpful son-in-law Master T-Wrench (Toyota)/dealership with assistance with "local" (bad-**** shop, they do have!) and, of course, assistance from the mechanic. He (very well) knows about these groups and the specificity of data/experience sharing that boggles the mind...especially from the GUYS WHO DO THIS EVERYDAY FOR A LIVING. SO, that said,..he knows I'll do my homework and present him with the highlights ,..and how "I" want to proceed,.....(took about year to get him to be comfortable with my immediate directive to get the power tools OUTA' there, for now......(he's helped to teach me WHEN the impact (in example) would be NEEDED to minimize a lengthy labor approach......our rears went on without a hitch,..quite easily, actually,..once you prep a CLEARED place for any needed access. Torque values were followed precisely...HOWEVER:

I later realized that many here had made specific mention to establish torque value for that TOP-SIDE nut (probably: within the manual, in addition), TO BE SET---ONCE WEIGHT IS "SPRUNG". He had torqued the value while car was suspended. I later came back to him and discussed relaxing (slightly) the nut and provide a retorque perspec,..in this sprung state,..then (even) recheck later......He didn't think that my concern with a rotational pressure (at that bolt) would (could?) possibly be an issue, as to sprung weights vs. unsprung weights. SO: we readjusted them, per my instructions....finding that the torque values vs. position DID NOT really change....seems that this (possible) rotational pressure would manifest within the torque felt at the blot/washer assembly, no? Is this NOT the case? (I'm asking the guys who know)...bottom line: rears VERIFIED...the car's rear height, for me, took about a week to settle out,..only being SLIGHTLY high, initially....then back to where she was originally,..rears DONE,..

Now,..a month + later I did these front inserts (cowardly, staring at the needed ball joint changeout,..even with part in hand,...,..but deferring that for the next session---STILL, cowardly avoidence,...I've posted already of my "misfortunes",..and the needed "repeat" to REMEDY the error........(an additional morning).....as mentioned, I COULD NOT believe that I think I removed the original BOGES from my '89,...I could provide ANY level of compression with the damned shock staying put (so to speak)....anywaze,..the front's are now DEAD on and providing me a bit softer ride that is truly amazing,...adrenalin for the remainder of the suspesion work,,,followed (in finality) with changing the tie rods (maybe even the steering box -that's another discussion entirely)...lots of this "remainder stuff relate to things that will require realignment and corner balance ($$$-I won't be doing that part). I just hope to get the first stage replacements done and in-plce.....then I'll deliver her for the alignment stuff.......for now,..she's about 2 months out for a repaint (to the metal/windows out)..I'll tackle the realignment-required items AFTER the paint job...for now, the freshening of the shocks has VERY MUCH (SO) improved both, dampening AND handling.....I'm thoroughly impressed, thus far,..and excited as to the "plan"....

Thanks to all thank contribute here,...

And, as Bird mentioned, the epiphany can't even start until those rear WEVO sway bar mounts are in there ,...with fresh drop links......so cool getting this addressed.....you "feel" what's going down.....I LIKE THAT!

BEST to all and YOURS' THIS HOLIDAY SEASON,

Doyle

Ed Hughes

I do not believe sprung vs unsprung matters. As long as the shock rod doesn't turn while torqueing the nut, you're good.

I just put new Bilsteins all around on the 993, and with those-in the front-you use a 7mm Allen wrench in the shock rod to counter hold while torqueing. I modified a socket in lieu of a Hazet tool that is NLA. After torqueing the 22mm nut to 59 ft-lbs while the car was in the air, I can tell you with no uncertainty, that it ain't gonna loosen up, ever.

dshepp806

SO far, THAT has been the case as far as top side torque on the rears....I plan to doublecheck the fronts this weekend and see what shows,..it will probably be the same outcome as the rears.....

Measuring is EVERYTHING....as well as "proof's in the pudding"............

AGAIN, I had consumed a piece of a thread that mentioned this unsprung weight vs. sprung weight concerns (issues) when setting these torques,....that's all....vague, at that,..as I've not searched yet,..to serve my memory......

BIG DIFFERENCE ON THE GIRL'S RESPONSE.

Best!

Doyle

dshepp806

I'd further (end) this by saying I'm quite happy with the factory Boges (after MANY miles now),.....she (remains) stock....of course, my lazy **** needs to get the new WEVO rear sway bar mounts installed,..then (and only then) will I enjoy a true "refresh"...however still more to go,....inanycase: I like these shocks/inserts a lot!!

BEST!

Doyle