theiceman

Looks like its going to be a great thread and i didnt want to clog it up with commentary , rather leave the actual thread to Brett and let him comment along the way .
I know i will have to go down this path eventualy.

I noticed you have a couple of the heavy valve cover gaskets .. did they help >? i just cant stop mine from leaking all over the exchanger ,, in fact i am beginning to think i have a base gaket leak and it is just running down.
Also my Brother is a Mechanic .. he often is amused by those of us putting penetrating oil and slowly trying to work off nuts and Bolts.. if it were an exhaust stud is one thing.. when he helped me with another car he just put hisimpact gun on full blast and snapped em righ off ... time is money he says and its only a nut and bolt ... He is so correct i just never thought of it that way >>

anyway back to this awesome thread ...

Brett San Diego

Good point on the fasteners. If you're confident that you're not going to round 'em off, then snap 'em. They are getting replaced anyway. I was concerned about rounding them and having to deal with that. And, I don't have an air compressor.

I don't think I got a 100% seal with the re-usable silicone gaskets, but any leakage was just minor seepage, I think. Keep in mind I only put 10,000 miles on them and only one use. When I went to remove them for the first time, the head stud dropped out. Damn, that wasn't supposed to happen...

You're confident the source is the valve covers and not the oil return tubes?

Brett

theiceman

yeah it is actully coming from above them if that makes sense . i even stuffed tissue around them and went for a drive ,, got back and they were bone dry.. it is very difficult to tell though . i think i iwll know for sure if i pull the engine like you . i just cant justify pulling it for the leak. Waiting for the head stud or clutch

theiceman

Brett i wouldnt sweat the samll stuff .. your CVs should be fine .. i might have some pics of how it goes if your worried but it is kind of hard to put it together wrong. getting the whole thing off the shaft is really no big deal anyway and once the ***** fell out ( he he i said ***** ! ) i would have stripped the whole thing down for an inspection anyway . Mine were perfectly fine as far as sound goes but below is what i found when i took them apart for routine inspction and packing .. ( 170,000 km )


Also i went through exactly what you did with the CIS system except i did mine with the engine in the car when i blew my airbox up real good .. BTW anyone reading this if your are told you cant replace the airbox with engine in the car they are wrong .. just drop the engine about 2 inches and follow Bretts instructions.

i did the whole thing Brett just did in about 90 minutes and the most usefull tool by far was the 1/4 drive socket wrench and a few extensions and universals. My valves looked exactly the same when i inspected and it is running fine. If you can find my exploded airbox thread there should be a list of all the little parts you need to refurb the CIS system, pretty cheap really , not sure if the pics stay or not though that was quite a few years ago.

theiceman

A couple of other comments .. the connector you point out where you are not sure what it is .. that is the safety cut off for the fuel pump ( as it is a CIS car ) . If the car stalls the air flap drops and that switch kills the fuel pump .
On a CIS car if your not sure the fuel pump is working you take the filter and air cover off with the igntion on , reach in and lift the air flap . when you here the pump run it is that switch you are activating. BTW it is exactly the same colour as the cold start valve so dont mix them up .. good luck switching them back with the engine back in the car.
also you can just give a good heave on the injectors with a set of carefully placed vice grips and they will pop right out ( just an o-ring holding them in ) your piece of wood works to protect them too though .

Brett San Diego

I stripped the half shafts and fully degreased the CV joints about 10,000 miles ago (less actually, don't have my maintenance log handy, but I've only driven the 911 10,000 miles). Two of them were worn and needed replacement. Two of them were good and went back in. All new boots, too. They should be fine at this point.

I did some reading, and the indication I got was that the issue is relative orientation of the inner and outer races in a facing-one-way-or-the-other sense. I know I got that part right, since I had put the machined indent around the outer race specifically on the distal end of the shaft on all the joints. I was worried that it's possible to line up an inner race ball track with the wrong outer race ball track. I didn't read anything saying that is an issue. And, like I said, the joint seems to orbit by manual manipulation just like the other one, so I'm pretty sure I'm good.

I found the cold start valve and the fuel cut-off switch (thanks for that info) connectors are both blue but slightly different shades, so they are color coded for me. Don't know if that's factory intentional or happenstance fading or an indication of replacement at some point.

You're a better mechanic than me. I don't know how you reached the inner nuts on the bank 2 forward intake runners. Disconnecting those connectors behind the air box blind is a feat of Houdini.

At first, I didn't notice the injectors projecting below the runners and set the intake down on them. Hopefully there are no consequences from that. Thanks for the tip on removing them. Should you grind down the little punched tabs at all to aid removal or just pull them out?

Ice feel free to comment within the head stud thread. There is a good reason to keep the discussion in the same thread as the pictorials so that useful info isn't lost to posterity in a separate thread...

Brett

theiceman

ill post there in future , i just didnt want to clog it with " amazing thread " crap I am a bit of a pragmatic like Ed. Anyway you dont need to grind to pull the injectors just pull em up . But definitely grind to remove the sleeves then they pop out . replace the sleeves and sleeve orings , put em back and "Tamp" the metal with a small chisel making new indents to keep the sleeve in place then soak the injector or rings with a biyt of oil or fuel and slide the injectors in .. pretty easy actually

Brett San Diego

Don't get me wrong. I'm with you on avoiding OT or "non-functional" posts. I should have said feel free to make "relevant" observations in the thread...

If it's relevant stuff like this, please, post in the pictorial thread. Thanks for the tips.

Brett