My 1978 3.0 L head stud replacement thread
09-01-2011, 05:31 AM
#31
Ice: Broken stud was on #3 exhaust side. Yeah, I know people remove the air injection. I'm embroiled in an internal debate with myself whether to do so. I kind of want to leave everything factory original given this is (or was) a concours car, but... this system is just archaic, and I don't know if the smog pump and air injection valve that are on it now are actually functioning. But then, I'm thinking some SSI heat exchangers would be cool down the road, so there goes my factory original thinking, so why bother keeping the air injection... Decisions, decisions.
Ed: I need to clean the area up and have a better look at the fins, but I don't think they're broken off. I'll get a closer look when the heads are off. I got a question for you. I've pretty much made the decision to have the heads refurbished. The oil pooled against the one intake valve bothered me, and I figured, I'm in here now, just do it. Upon reading posts on the matter, it appears the cost wasn't as high as I thought (around $1000 versus I thought around $3000). 2 questions actually. Where to send the heads? Any recommendations for something local so I don't have to ship them. And, if I'm having the heads refurbished does it matter what cylinder they came from? Should I still label them and put them back on the same cylinder they came from? It would seem to matter less, if you're having all of them redone.
Brett
Ed: I need to clean the area up and have a better look at the fins, but I don't think they're broken off. I'll get a closer look when the heads are off. I got a question for you. I've pretty much made the decision to have the heads refurbished. The oil pooled against the one intake valve bothered me, and I figured, I'm in here now, just do it. Upon reading posts on the matter, it appears the cost wasn't as high as I thought (around $1000 versus I thought around $3000). 2 questions actually. Where to send the heads? Any recommendations for something local so I don't have to ship them. And, if I'm having the heads refurbished does it matter what cylinder they came from? Should I still label them and put them back on the same cylinder they came from? It would seem to matter less, if you're having all of them redone.
Brett
09-01-2011, 08:54 AM
#32
Rennlist Member
I don't believe it matters on remounting on the same cyl after refurbimg, but I'm superstitious, and did it anyway. I used a punch on the bottom fin to mark them.
There is a machine shop in Chula Vista or thereabouts that I had some chamfering down at. They advertise in the PCA Windblown rag. I not sure about a complete head rehab though. Ollies is in Lake Havasu and know their stuff, and I believe Competition Engineering a bit north of us that has a good rep.
I mounted mine to a piece of 1/2" ply and then put them in a box to CA from TX. That worked well to ship. Insured the hell out of them too.
There is a machine shop in Chula Vista or thereabouts that I had some chamfering down at. They advertise in the PCA Windblown rag. I not sure about a complete head rehab though. Ollies is in Lake Havasu and know their stuff, and I believe Competition Engineering a bit north of us that has a good rep.
I mounted mine to a piece of 1/2" ply and then put them in a box to CA from TX. That worked well to ship. Insured the hell out of them too.
09-01-2011, 02:22 PM
#33
Thanks, Ed. Good tip on shipping. The "missing" fins on the cylinder head are not completely missing. Just a little of the top is not there as you can see in the picture. Like I said, it didn't look broken or even machined that I could tell. Looked like it was cast that way... But, I'll report more later.
I just called Dieter's, and they use Motor Works. They guy at Dieter's said Chula Vista, but it looks like their address is actually National City. That's probably who you're talking about. I have seen their ads in The Witness. I think that's good enough for me. I'd prefer not to ship the heads.
Brett
I just called Dieter's, and they use Motor Works. They guy at Dieter's said Chula Vista, but it looks like their address is actually National City. That's probably who you're talking about. I have seen their ads in The Witness. I think that's good enough for me. I'd prefer not to ship the heads.
Brett
09-01-2011, 07:04 PM
#35
RL Community Team
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Re shipping:
Brett, as you know from my recent thread, I am having the heads re-built now too. I originally was thinking of shipping them to one of the gurus in the U.S., but I have had things lost in business shipments, even with FedEx (rare, but it has happened). As such, I decided to find a local shop that can do the work. Luckily the Toronto area has some very good ones.
Sure, you can insure stuff to the hilt, but it would be a huge pain. I think our choices to "go local" make a lot of sense, where practical.
BTW, interested in starting a support group for "WYIT" sufferers?
Brett, as you know from my recent thread, I am having the heads re-built now too. I originally was thinking of shipping them to one of the gurus in the U.S., but I have had things lost in business shipments, even with FedEx (rare, but it has happened). As such, I decided to find a local shop that can do the work. Luckily the Toronto area has some very good ones.
Sure, you can insure stuff to the hilt, but it would be a huge pain. I think our choices to "go local" make a lot of sense, where practical.
BTW, interested in starting a support group for "WYIT" sufferers?
09-01-2011, 09:34 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
It is Natl City. I'm not too impressed with what they did to my valve stem seals. Hopefully, you have better luck...
Thanks, Ed. Good tip on shipping. The "missing" fins on the cylinder head are not completely missing. Just a little of the top is not there as you can see in the picture. Like I said, it didn't look broken or even machined that I could tell. Looked like it was cast that way... But, I'll report more later.
I just called Dieter's, and they use Motor Works. They guy at Dieter's said Chula Vista, but it looks like their address is actually National City. That's probably who you're talking about. I have seen their ads in The Witness. I think that's good enough for me. I'd prefer not to ship the heads.
Brett
I just called Dieter's, and they use Motor Works. They guy at Dieter's said Chula Vista, but it looks like their address is actually National City. That's probably who you're talking about. I have seen their ads in The Witness. I think that's good enough for me. I'd prefer not to ship the heads.
Brett
09-02-2011, 01:14 AM
#38
Brett
09-02-2011, 11:55 AM
#39
Tackled clutch removal last night.
Pressure plate removed. Here's the flywheel in situ.
Ring gear temporarily bolted to the flywheel to engage the flywheel locking tool so I can remove the flywheel bolts.
Flywheel removed. Minimal oil from the rear main seal. Looks good. But, it looks like the rear seal is replaced as a matter of course with the clutch. I see the rear seal is included with the Pelican Parts clutch kit.
Here are the clutch, ring gear, and pressure plate on the bench. No rubber centered clutch.
The clutch disk is a little over 7 mm thick.
How thick is a new clutch disk? What is the minimum spec? I'm thinking I should replace it now. Whoopee!!! There's another $1000.
I'm also in the middle of alternator bearing replacement. I'll put up a full pictorial DIY post when that is done. I'm just waiting for the front bearing to arrive in the mail, and I can put it back together.
Brett
Pressure plate removed. Here's the flywheel in situ.
Ring gear temporarily bolted to the flywheel to engage the flywheel locking tool so I can remove the flywheel bolts.
Flywheel removed. Minimal oil from the rear main seal. Looks good. But, it looks like the rear seal is replaced as a matter of course with the clutch. I see the rear seal is included with the Pelican Parts clutch kit.
Here are the clutch, ring gear, and pressure plate on the bench. No rubber centered clutch.
The clutch disk is a little over 7 mm thick.
How thick is a new clutch disk? What is the minimum spec? I'm thinking I should replace it now. Whoopee!!! There's another $1000.
I'm also in the middle of alternator bearing replacement. I'll put up a full pictorial DIY post when that is done. I'm just waiting for the front bearing to arrive in the mail, and I can put it back together.
Brett
09-02-2011, 12:54 PM
#40
RL Community Team
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Brett: Your flywheel looks very good. It should be very easy to resurface (i.e. minimal machining).
Mine was not as good. The disc and pressure plate looked quite new, but the flywheel showed evidence of gouging from rivet in an over-worn disc. It looks to me like the clutch was replced without the flywheel being addressed. As it is, it looks like I still have enough material to machine, so I am lucky.
Looking good!
+1,000,000,000.01 That is SOOO funny and SOOO true!
Mine was not as good. The disc and pressure plate looked quite new, but the flywheel showed evidence of gouging from rivet in an over-worn disc. It looks to me like the clutch was replced without the flywheel being addressed. As it is, it looks like I still have enough material to machine, so I am lucky.
Looking good!
+1,000,000,000.01 That is SOOO funny and SOOO true!
09-02-2011, 01:30 PM
#42
Brett
09-02-2011, 04:23 PM
#43
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Actually, machining is probably not necessary... Was your clutch action smooth? The only other reason to machine might be if there is a slight warp on the surface...
09-05-2011, 04:04 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
A 911 engine on paper, or in my mind, was/is quite daunting. The reality is, it is just different. It really is straight forward, and there are a lot of parts, but with the exception of checking all of the clearances and ensuring all of the many mating surfaces seal, it makes sense as you put it together.