Replacing voltage regulator
#17
Rennlist Member
There are 6 nuts on the end of the 6 Phillips head bolts. 3 hold only the air shroud. I use a short 8mm wrench on only the 3 that hold the shroud. Then you can pivot the alternator and remove the wires, then the housing.
#18
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
OK me stuck...I have the whole bloody thing out but does the fan shroud come off the alternator? (I have the fan off no problem, alternator out of car with shroud)
3 nuts for the air deflector off
3 nuts for what I thought was the shroud off
tapped (pretty good) and nothin....I mean nothin! - so how do I get the shroud off?
I'll post a pic BRB
3 nuts for the air deflector off
3 nuts for what I thought was the shroud off
tapped (pretty good) and nothin....I mean nothin! - so how do I get the shroud off?
I'll post a pic BRB
#22
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
got it Ed, Thanks!
I thought of that but thought "you know..maybe I should ask first rather than ask 'now what, i broke it' later"
alt heading to the shop monday - she's puttin out over 17 volts and might have cooked my battery, caught it early so maybe I got lucky, maybe not
I thought of that but thought "you know..maybe I should ask first rather than ask 'now what, i broke it' later"
alt heading to the shop monday - she's puttin out over 17 volts and might have cooked my battery, caught it early so maybe I got lucky, maybe not
#23
"Put nuts on the ends of the studs and gently tap it out."
Not a good idea, especially for the 5mm studs.
Best approach, as for all Porsche alts, is to use a 2X4 or a 4X6
block of wood on the floor and tap the alt housing on the block
and 'shake' the alt out of the housing, i.e. the housing is
rotated between taps on the block of wood. Any other way
either damages the studs (soft which bents easily) or the alt case.
Note: Many of my 'seasoned' mechanics still use the 'hammer' approach.
Not a good idea, especially for the 5mm studs.
Best approach, as for all Porsche alts, is to use a 2X4 or a 4X6
block of wood on the floor and tap the alt housing on the block
and 'shake' the alt out of the housing, i.e. the housing is
rotated between taps on the block of wood. Any other way
either damages the studs (soft which bents easily) or the alt case.
Note: Many of my 'seasoned' mechanics still use the 'hammer' approach.
#24
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm not sure that I'd slam my alternator on blocks of wood, like a crack mom dishing out some post natal shaken baby syndrome.
Gentle and persistent tapping works for me. You'd be surprised how effective it is.
Gentle and persistent tapping works for me. You'd be surprised how effective it is.
#25
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
well I PB blasted it and let it sit for a while, then rapped on the center of the alt with a dead blow a few times and stopped...then when Ed said hit the studs I supported the shroud right close to each spot I was tapping on with a 1-2-3 block on the shroud so the energy was local and right on the ring, not on the fins...I worked back and forth like torquing wheel nuts and used very little rapping with a medium sized metal hammer and a brass drift 1" diameter and the nuts were completely flush with the stud so I had max area and neither the nut or the stud was taking all the blow
I didnt just hammer the studs without some thought and adequate tools....
I didnt just hammer the studs without some thought and adequate tools....
#26
Rennlist Member
"Put nuts on the ends of the studs and gently tap it out."
Not a good idea, especially for the 5mm studs.
Best approach, as for all Porsche alts, is to use a 2X4 or a 4X6
block of wood on the floor and tap the alt housing on the block
and 'shake' the alt out of the housing, i.e. the housing is
rotated between taps on the block of wood. Any other way
either damages the studs (soft which bents easily) or the alt case.
Note: Many of my 'seasoned' mechanics still use the 'hammer' approach.
Not a good idea, especially for the 5mm studs.
Best approach, as for all Porsche alts, is to use a 2X4 or a 4X6
block of wood on the floor and tap the alt housing on the block
and 'shake' the alt out of the housing, i.e. the housing is
rotated between taps on the block of wood. Any other way
either damages the studs (soft which bents easily) or the alt case.
Note: Many of my 'seasoned' mechanics still use the 'hammer' approach.
#28
Racer
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Thanks guys for the tip. It was easy to get off with just the three bolts.
Now for next steps. The alternator looks pretty rough so while I am going through this effort I might as well have it rebuilt.
Questions:
1) Who is reputable for a rebuild? Can any alternator shop do it?
2) Two of the rubber boots need replacing on the wires. The ground wire boot disentegrated right off. Is this a standard part I can get from Pelican or is there a better source?
Now for next steps. The alternator looks pretty rough so while I am going through this effort I might as well have it rebuilt.
Questions:
1) Who is reputable for a rebuild? Can any alternator shop do it?
2) Two of the rubber boots need replacing on the wires. The ground wire boot disentegrated right off. Is this a standard part I can get from Pelican or is there a better source?
#29
Rennlist Member
Greg, I hope you disconnected the battery prior to alternator removal. The hot wire can do damge if it hits any metal object and grounds out. You can have the housing and fan bead blasted, but do it lightly. Then you can paint it, polish it, clear coat or whatever you like.