ivangene

I am taking mine in to a shop for rebuild - comes with a 1 year warranty and I thought about all the options...this one makes the most sense FOR ME

I also had one of those rubber things come apart, I plan to hit the electronics store by my place or maybe the auto parts house...I cant see ordering that thing...some one local must have something.

thanks for labeling YOUR wires so I know where MINE go !! hahaha

ivangene

I am planning to clean that area with baking soda and water....really well!

yumyum1667

Ivan,

Ok I am stuck. I am not following how to get the alternator out of the housing. It looks like the fins are a part of the entire assembly?

ivangene

LOL - that was my Q last night...go back to Ed's comment...

what I did was used a very smooth piece of steel against the housing on the side the fan belt is..(remove fan, its easy) then with all the nuts off, I put them all back on and ran them till they were flush with the tops of the studs...and tapped on those while rotating and going like a torque sequence (not in a circle) hitting each one as the assy rested on the block under it (I am sure a scrap of wood would be fine)..it finally moved a little so then I just slowly worked it out (as the tiny gap betewwn the housing and the alt diminissed I just supported the thing with my hand... I'll draw a pic BRB

ivangene

block here, there is about a MM of gap before the alternator will make contact with your support, watch the gap and you know its moving...once it moves you can simply keep going without the blocks to support it



put nuts on these and lightly tap with a brass or other soft metal piece (hammers can damage the threads pretty fast, with the nuts on you can back the nut off and normally save them if you cause a little damage...I was careful and had no trouble.

ivangene

OH and I marked one stud and one hole on the housing so I know how it goes back...

yumyum1667

Ok I follow now. You said you removed the fan and it was easy.

How?

Greg

Lorenfb

"rapping with a medium sized metal hammer and a brass drift 1" diameter"

Another bad idea. This will surely crack something.
Hammers are used by carpenters, not good mechanics!

ivangene

OK let me be VERY SPECIFIC... I used a machinists Made in Germany nylon faces 2 lb 1.75" diameter dead blow with steel frame and rubber handle grip - the reason I know it is a machinists dead blow is I am a prototype machinist for the last 20 years and use it damn near every day to seat parts in vises, dial in fixtures, jigs, tooling, vises. I also have many many drifts, drives, punches and home made gizzmos for installing and removing pins, bolts, mating parts and stuck parts.

notice I aso said I set it on 1-2-3 blocks which I am pretty sure not every one has, but I have at least 5 pairs..most wonderful useful tool on the plannet and the Swiss ones are nice for some things and the $12 chinese ones are good for other things...like this

My question was more in line with "do these come apart, and if so where" then what to hit the damn thing with

Lorenfb

"then what to hit the damn thing "

You DON'T hit Porsche parts if you're a good mechanic!

I've rebuilt many Porsche alternators where the studs
had to be cut with a saw to disassemble the alternator,
and where the alternator case was cracked because of
hammering. It doesn't take much of a 'blow' on the
5mm studs to bend them or damage the threads.

ivangene

you used a saw on a Porsche....well that seems percision - you are busting me and others for using a hammer just to bust us,...whatever....I use whatever tool works. If I had a large piece of tubing I would have made a craddle and another part that pushed on the inside of the housing yet against the alternator and drove it out with a threaded device....

but the hammer worked

Ed Hughes

That was my point about doing the alt to begin with!

Talk to your local PCA folks on who is good in your area. I still suggest the Bosch remans from Zims....

Lorenfb

"you used a saw on a Porsche....well that seems percision"

How else to remove bent studs with damaged thread, i.e. from a 'butcher'
mechanic's Mickey Mouse efforts, without damaging the alternator's case
threads. Once those threads are gone, the alternator case is history.

"I would have made a craddle and another part that pushed on the inside of the housing yet against the alternator"

Any force against the alternator case results in potential damage to the rear
alternator bearing alignment and premature bearing failure or rubbing
of the alternator rotor against the alternator stator. Again, you don't
pound (hammer) on any part of an alternator. Hammers belong and stay
in the carpenters tool box when working on a Porsche.

rusnak

The Porsche Motorsports tool set with cabinet, made by Hazet for Porsche and used by the factory at Le Mans, has at least two hammers, and neither one is as refined as Ed's hammer. I use just a plain old deadblow or a wrench handle. Patient, persistent, small taps on the studs is what always works for me.

I second Ed Hughes' comment re: the mag fan shrouds. Those things are rare, expensive, and fragile, made of pressure cast magnesium.

yumyum1667

Ok after having it out on the bench today I decided to just change the voltage regulator.

I am putting the fan and assmbly back in the car and I noticed that the fan does not spin freely with the Vbelt removed. Is this normal? I ask because when I had the fan on the bench it would spin freely.

I have the fan assembly connected back to the alternator wiring and plastic shroud.

I thought I would check before I start it up.

Greg