of deep gratitude
#46
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Haha, thanks fr the introduction. The wedding is aug 27 in st paul.
The 924 is nearly perfect in every way except the engine. It will get there, and hopefully before I break down and do a motor swap
as nice as 3.0 variocam sound I would rather make what I have work.
Long term I would like to make the 924 a track rat and buy another p-car for weekends. I really like thev sound of a lowered 911 targa with a duck tail and fuch wheels. Someday...
The 924 is nearly perfect in every way except the engine. It will get there, and hopefully before I break down and do a motor swap
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Long term I would like to make the 924 a track rat and buy another p-car for weekends. I really like thev sound of a lowered 911 targa with a duck tail and fuch wheels. Someday...
#50
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Outstanding!
As a Rush fan and a Porsche fan I applaud you all!
Such a nice thing to do. Way to go, Doyle.
As a Rush fan and a Porsche fan I applaud you all!
Such a nice thing to do. Way to go, Doyle.
#51
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Pic #1 is from the upper right rear area of the rear lid (viewed from the rear)..one can easily see there's damaged there, and probably (certainly?) my (to keep this RUSHISH) source for "steampunk" activity. This HAPPENED because of the failure of item (not so clearly see, but obvious with looking or PET), NOT keeping this AC hose AWAY from that dreaded edge....dumbarse me, observed this (at the time, a SMALL wear) MANY moons ago and had SINCE forgotten about it (this is where rusnak reminds me of important prechecks)...well, I paid the price....a bit of oil about the engine bay, too....although quite localized and VERY minimul....alll my fault for not having addressed this LONG ago......I assume she dumped all of her R12 into the atmosphere and I now have an exposed system (the the environment). What should be done protectively, in the meantime? Will this require drier replacement? Is it better to order the hose or have it repaired locally? (remove it and bring it to a good shop? Barrier? Non-barrier?
And, finally (things get worse),..I notice the broken tab (Pic 3) on the frikin air box,..am gonna try the epoxy (plastic weld) approach as the broken piece is still there,..OR SIMPLY replace the damned thing,....man,..what a day,..spent researching this stuff (necc'y orings, proper hose part number..)....
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
So,..there you go..here I sit...next to view some other sites (parts),,,,,
Not a good weekend, thus far...I'll attempt to share this "technical thread" sperately, as many owners may not be aware of this potential failure point....and it rests within a Rushish posts representative of human nature and how it relates to all of our Family here at RL!!!!!!!!!!!
#52
Race Car
Thread Starter
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Damn it. I wanted this to work so bad.
Is that specifically the compressor-to-condenser hose?
and a dryer...may as well if it's all open.
let me know what hose that is and I will send you a quote Doyle.
Rus...I will buy some R12.
Is that specifically the compressor-to-condenser hose?
and a dryer...may as well if it's all open.
let me know what hose that is and I will send you a quote Doyle.
Rus...I will buy some R12.
#53
I haddah Google dat
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Welcome TB! And Congratulations! Any friend of WB's is a friend here for sure.
I agree with Ed re: 49F. R-12 normally blows pretty cold.
Doyle, I think the first thing is to cap off the hose, or wrap it with strong tape to keep atmosphere out. I think your R/D will be ok. I'd then do an evac and leak test to be sure there are no leaks. That hose can be easily replaced by any AC shop. It commonly fails because the engine lid is always folding and unfolding it. I replaced the rubber mount, which is too bendy and eventually always tears, with a solid metal lug spacer with a long bolt through it.
I was trying to encourage folks on Pelican to be gentle on their airboxes, because they can be difficult to replace, like distributors. I don't think they were listening. It's not easy to fix them either. Someone needs to invent a new lid fastening system for the factory airboxes.
I agree with Ed re: 49F. R-12 normally blows pretty cold.
Doyle, I think the first thing is to cap off the hose, or wrap it with strong tape to keep atmosphere out. I think your R/D will be ok. I'd then do an evac and leak test to be sure there are no leaks. That hose can be easily replaced by any AC shop. It commonly fails because the engine lid is always folding and unfolding it. I replaced the rubber mount, which is too bendy and eventually always tears, with a solid metal lug spacer with a long bolt through it.
I was trying to encourage folks on Pelican to be gentle on their airboxes, because they can be difficult to replace, like distributors. I don't think they were listening. It's not easy to fix them either. Someone needs to invent a new lid fastening system for the factory airboxes.
#54
I haddah Google dat
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I won't let you "buy" my friend. Tell me how many you need.
#55
Race Car
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Thanks rus. I think we have the freon on hand. I just spoke with Doyle directly and he has a hook-up.
I think your advice on the little rubber "buffer" is dead nuts on. I would be inclined to do the same.
As for the hose, just over $100 for OEM, and R/D is $30 - $70 depending on manufacturer.
For the sake of time and effort, Doyle thinks just getting a new hose is easiest...I tend to agree not knowing who or what quality replacement hose is in his area. What think you?
As for the RD, I suggest one if the original is...original. If the system is, or has been, open for a while it may need it. To me, a drier is a drier; my concern is that they can be different sizes and shapes. Although somebody has a drier for the 911, is it directly the same? will the clamps fit? Is there one available that is a known good one(outside factory) or known, poorly fitting piece?
Griffiths is usually safe.
I think your advice on the little rubber "buffer" is dead nuts on. I would be inclined to do the same.
As for the hose, just over $100 for OEM, and R/D is $30 - $70 depending on manufacturer.
For the sake of time and effort, Doyle thinks just getting a new hose is easiest...I tend to agree not knowing who or what quality replacement hose is in his area. What think you?
As for the RD, I suggest one if the original is...original. If the system is, or has been, open for a while it may need it. To me, a drier is a drier; my concern is that they can be different sizes and shapes. Although somebody has a drier for the 911, is it directly the same? will the clamps fit? Is there one available that is a known good one(outside factory) or known, poorly fitting piece?
Griffiths is usually safe.
#56
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It is compromised/contaminated now, time to replace. Isn't it Procooler in Austin area that has the trick one? A buddy in DFW put one in a few years ago-got down to 38F vent temp.
#57
I haddah Google dat
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WB, I think you raise a good point. Who knows how old the RD is? Those things get plugged if dirt enters them, and if water and air mix with that oil.....ugh.
I found much better quality Goodyear hose in my area. Us po' bastiches who live in very hot, or very hot and humid climates take AC very seriously. That's why I have a pro quality vacuum pump, gauges, and stock up on both R-12 (for my mom's car), and 134a. I think it was like $40 to have the old ends cut off, and crimed on some new hose. A very very nice guy who owns an AC shop did that, and made a new condensor for me out of old parts. I still have it.
Ed Hughes is dead on re: the Pro-Cooler. That thing is trick! I love the design, and I get high 30s, low 40s from it. I broke the damned capilary tube putting my console back in a few months ago, so I now have to do the dreaded AC switch modification and replace my switch.
WB and Doyle, just let me know if I can help....
I found much better quality Goodyear hose in my area. Us po' bastiches who live in very hot, or very hot and humid climates take AC very seriously. That's why I have a pro quality vacuum pump, gauges, and stock up on both R-12 (for my mom's car), and 134a. I think it was like $40 to have the old ends cut off, and crimed on some new hose. A very very nice guy who owns an AC shop did that, and made a new condensor for me out of old parts. I still have it.
Ed Hughes is dead on re: the Pro-Cooler. That thing is trick! I love the design, and I get high 30s, low 40s from it. I broke the damned capilary tube putting my console back in a few months ago, so I now have to do the dreaded AC switch modification and replace my switch.
WB and Doyle, just let me know if I can help....
#58
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In keeping bird's cool thread cool (and technical,..he may have to subtitle it with ",..on R12 and 2112")!!!
Spent the day (pretty much) reviewing many threads on AC....good stuff out their, in many NGs. Definately caught a lot of your stuff, Rusnak. Held another phone class with prof. Bird today, as well. It seems like there's a wide range of drier selections out there,..from ACM/$40 stuff to mid scale Hansa stuff/$169,..to Porsche/$241.......and at that price one would be crazy not go ahead and get the Procooler @ $299....i'm told it's a dead fit.....I'm not sure,....need to keep the budget tight for now...but it's quite clear that this one component upgrade would be an important one (among others) to do at some point.
Rusnak,..thank you for your offer and support. You may want to keep a couple of those cans aside, afterall.....we'll see. Bird's gracious enough to review my parts listing, just to get her back up and cooling. Comp to Cond hose and Orings (X2---but I'm sure we'll order an extra, right, Bird?), Drier and orings, maybe get some fresh oil (just in case),..new rubber buffer mount and hardware (what started the whole frikin' problem to begin with...........),..make sure I've enough R12, since we'll evac on this next run...Bentley show 47 oz. system capacity for R12.
I've discussed the oil issue with Bird. I was trying to determine "how" this oil is distributed in the system....as table b....page 800-10/Bentley gives one helluva' breakdown for component (or , as they misspell-"Compontent"?) volumes...most of it within the comp (2 oz),..with the Evap/Condensers/Rxvr-Dryer getting 1.6 oz/.8 oz/.4 oz, respectively. Thanks for the insight there.
I couldn't help it,..had to post the previous M&G photo, just to demonstrate the difference in Dave's renditions.....
THANKS!
Doyle
Spent the day (pretty much) reviewing many threads on AC....good stuff out their, in many NGs. Definately caught a lot of your stuff, Rusnak. Held another phone class with prof. Bird today, as well. It seems like there's a wide range of drier selections out there,..from ACM/$40 stuff to mid scale Hansa stuff/$169,..to Porsche/$241.......and at that price one would be crazy not go ahead and get the Procooler @ $299....i'm told it's a dead fit.....I'm not sure,....need to keep the budget tight for now...but it's quite clear that this one component upgrade would be an important one (among others) to do at some point.
Rusnak,..thank you for your offer and support. You may want to keep a couple of those cans aside, afterall.....we'll see. Bird's gracious enough to review my parts listing, just to get her back up and cooling. Comp to Cond hose and Orings (X2---but I'm sure we'll order an extra, right, Bird?), Drier and orings, maybe get some fresh oil (just in case),..new rubber buffer mount and hardware (what started the whole frikin' problem to begin with...........),..make sure I've enough R12, since we'll evac on this next run...Bentley show 47 oz. system capacity for R12.
I've discussed the oil issue with Bird. I was trying to determine "how" this oil is distributed in the system....as table b....page 800-10/Bentley gives one helluva' breakdown for component (or , as they misspell-"Compontent"?) volumes...most of it within the comp (2 oz),..with the Evap/Condensers/Rxvr-Dryer getting 1.6 oz/.8 oz/.4 oz, respectively. Thanks for the insight there.
I couldn't help it,..had to post the previous M&G photo, just to demonstrate the difference in Dave's renditions.....
THANKS!
Doyle
#59
I haddah Google dat
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Dude! You guys are ALL cool!
Doyle, my friend Mitch did a write up in the Tech Articles on Pelican P about the ProCooler. The instructions aren't so good, but his eval is. With R-12 you'll be plenty cold. Mitch was very gracious to give me the illustration credit on the accompanying photo.
Doyle, my friend Mitch did a write up in the Tech Articles on Pelican P about the ProCooler. The instructions aren't so good, but his eval is. With R-12 you'll be plenty cold. Mitch was very gracious to give me the illustration credit on the accompanying photo.
#60
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Oh, this "haunting" post by yours' truly back in Feb, 2010 : https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...-ac-issue.html Geeze,...talk about an owner not following up,..Although the pic didn't show up on that post, I'm sure it was posted (back when wear was minimal).....this is embarrasing to have had my endeavor end as it did last Friday, WITH ME having KNOWN about the condition of that "condenser to comp" hose.....what a slacker. Rx'd what I deserved.
Will try to get a better pic today of the failed rubber buffer so that RL's can easily see what I'm talking about. Most know of it, but this would be for the unknowing (and, of course, (like me), the forgetful.
Planning on spending some time this AM to give the condensers a real good cleaning. Although they appear ok (no drastic bends/compressions nor occlusions) I'm told they can "scale" and attain a "coating" that will reduce it's functional ability to transfer heat, albeit small....I've some of the enviro-friendly stuff that I use on the house unit (doesn't require a rinse, but I will) and am told this stuff would be ok to use.
I caught Mitch's write-up and found it informative...illustrations were very illustrative!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Getting stoked! May go buy my own gauges now since I've educated myself a bit more, compliments of all of the RL Professors!!!!!!!!!!!
What a cool thread....(ahem). At some point I'll have to reference this thread, as it has AC information...Sorry, Bird, to have hijacked your thread......! In a gonzo fashion, maybe retitle to "With gratitude: Fear & Loathing on the 2112 and R12 Trail"...
BEST TO ALL!!!!!
Doyle
Will try to get a better pic today of the failed rubber buffer so that RL's can easily see what I'm talking about. Most know of it, but this would be for the unknowing (and, of course, (like me), the forgetful.
Planning on spending some time this AM to give the condensers a real good cleaning. Although they appear ok (no drastic bends/compressions nor occlusions) I'm told they can "scale" and attain a "coating" that will reduce it's functional ability to transfer heat, albeit small....I've some of the enviro-friendly stuff that I use on the house unit (doesn't require a rinse, but I will) and am told this stuff would be ok to use.
I caught Mitch's write-up and found it informative...illustrations were very illustrative!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Getting stoked! May go buy my own gauges now since I've educated myself a bit more, compliments of all of the RL Professors!!!!!!!!!!!
What a cool thread....(ahem). At some point I'll have to reference this thread, as it has AC information...Sorry, Bird, to have hijacked your thread......! In a gonzo fashion, maybe retitle to "With gratitude: Fear & Loathing on the 2112 and R12 Trail"...
BEST TO ALL!!!!!
Doyle