g-50cab

Score of the year - 72E being one of my favorites - realistically - even in this market - that's a 25-30K car if it's as described.

Brian 96C2

Cool, nice job with the purchase. I wonder if the color is original? Would be great to see more details of the car when you can get some more photos taken.

Does it have any manuals, documents, or history that you know of? You are so far ahead on this car you can really make this into a very nice car and still be way ahead on value.

If you post up the VIN and engine serial # we maybe able to confirm it has it's original engine.

rome

Great acquisition. Congrats.

chris951

Thanks again guys! I put some plugs in it and replaced the cassette player with a cd player this afternoon. It is a pain to start sometimes. Tomorrow I will look for trunk shocks and an air filter. I bought a Momo Prototipo last night. It seems like it is running really really rich. Not sure what to do about that, still learning mechanical fuel injection.

I did find an old Haynes manual for these cars in the trunk and found notes from the late 80s-early 90s with all sorts of info. Evidently the engine was gone through with the utmost detail. I think one of the owners was an engineer as there was all sorts of calculations and measurements with scale drawings of gaskets. This car is set up for autocross.

Does anybody know exactly how much oil to put in when you change it? I know the capacity is 9.5 quarts, but how much do I actually need to put in. When I worked on 993s I never filled it to capacity with the oil in the coolers and lines added in. The oil leak seemed to have disappeared. I still have plenty of oil on the dipstick. The car sat for a long time, but I am not sure if driving it is helping seal.

I will try to find out if it is a matching numbers car. I think this find might make for an interesting article in Excellence.

HarryD

[QUOTE=chris951;8533316]Thanks again guys! I put some plugs in it and replaced the cassette player with a cd player this afternoon. It is a pain to start sometimes. Tomorrow I will look for trunk shocks and an air filter. I bought a Momo Prototipo last night. It seems like it is running really really rich. Not sure what to do about that, still learning mechanical fuel injection.{/quote]

MFI does run rich.

School yourself on MFI. Go over to the Pelican BBS (forums.pelicanparts.com) find hte posts discussing care and feeding of MFI. Play close attention to the writings of Grady Clay.

Find (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...MFI/TipMFI.htm) the Bible of MFI called Check Measure and Adjust (CMA). Do search there for hte threads on dong the adjustements.

The Haynes is an ok book. For this year car, the Haynes and the Factory manuals are all we got.

My 1973 (which should be similar) takes about 10 quarts to fill to 1/2 way up the dip stick. Now, you do know to only check 911 oil levels when the car is:
Level;
At operating temperature (about 180-90); and
Idling.

Measurements taken at other times are inaccurate and your are very likely to over fill.

What oil are you using. Due to the the recnet changes in the API Standards, not all 20W-50 oils are the same in regards to their level of high pressure antiwear additives. You need an oil with lots (1100 ppm+) of Zinc and Phosphrus. Most oils on your autoparts store shelves will not be adequate.


Sounds like matching or not, it would be an interesting article.

grant911

Congrats. It looks beautiful. Like everyone else, I'd love to see some more photos of it!!

whalebird

Good info from Harry. MFI is very sensitive and should not be fiddled with arbitrarily. Many MFI systems today are worn out if they are original...the failure mode is usually the inability to lean them out.
Please get that car to someone who is skilled on that vintage 911 and have it looked over before driving it too much. You DON'T want to do damage.
Another thing, take a magnet and see if it sticks to the front spoiler below the bumper. Steel = good.
Also stick the magnet to the rear deck. Aluminum=good, but rare.
MORE PICS.

chris951

Front spoiler is fiberglass, rear decklid is steel. VIN-9112200166 Engine Ser-6220113
I hope somebody can confirm that this is the original motor or not. Even if it isn't a terribly valuable car, I still think I made out like a bandit.

Does anybody know where I can get the rubber boot that connects to the airbox? I have not been able to find one and I don't want to keep the tape on the old one.

pu911rsr

That is certainally the correct engine type for a 72E, both the chassis and engine # are early in the production for 72. Most likely it is the matching engine, Congrats, smokin deal.
Phil

chris951

I sent a sales report to Excellence magazine.

HarryD

Per the VIN Number, that was the 166th 1972 911E Coupe producded that year. The engine number indicates that it was hte 113th 1972 911E engine built that year. Near the engine serial number is another number stamped. It "should read "911/52". Chances are you have a numbers matching car.

There is also a transmission serial number on the boss at the lowest point of the transmission, there should be two numbers: something like 732xxxx and 915/02.

FWIW, You can only verify if they match by getting a COA.

Looking at the Porsche Parts Catalog (aka PET - http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf...73_KATALOG.pdf), it looks to be part number 911-108-272-00. YOu can order it through Pelican Parts (http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...0RUBBER%20HOSE) for about $75. They describe it as a rubber hose.

You can also go over to both Pelican Parts and the Early 911S Registry. You can ask if you can make some thing more permanent and check out the for sale ads and also post a Want to Buy Ad to see if someone has the part you are looking for.

Brian 96C2

Chris,

I am less certain than others that your engine is original to the car. The 622XXX engines where produced for both the E models of Targas and the coupes in '72. So unless the car is extremely early in the model year the last 4 digits of the engine serial # is higher than the last 4 digits of the VIN.

Your best source to confirm this is a Certificate of Authenticity done through the PCA. Unfortunately they are often wrong but the inaccuracies are most often with the original options not the VIN and engine serial #.

If want to order one of these for your car let me know and I can send the link to the PDF order form.

chris951

I will send in my form to get my car's birth certificate. I fixed a fuel leak up front where the tank connects to rubber hoses to hardlines. I also fixed an exhaust leak at the muffler. I bled the brakes(fluid was black) and the front calipers seem to be aluminum, are these for the S cars? I replaced the leather straps that hold the back seats up and the sunvisor clips. The car does backfire sometimes only under decceleration. I adjusted the idle, but the car is still a pain to start most of the time, any ideas?

I also updated the engine sump plate to one with a real drain plug, filling the oil from outside the car can be a challenge. I put about 9 quarts of Castrol 20W-50 in there.

HarryD

Chris:

Pop over to the Pelican BBS or the Early 911s Registry BBS. They may be better equippped to help you with your MFI issues than here.

I do not want to start an oil debate on your thread but you may want to do some research on hte current oil formulations and what you need for your flat 6. The news is not good.