ivangene

well I wrote this once and deleted it by mistake
anyhow this is REV -A- I had a first attemt I didnt like (too bulky)

so the rod is a precision ground 10mm rod that I bought from McMaster for $7 - came in a 3 foot section, I cut it to 100 mm and turned two grooves in it for the clips.

the hardware is off the shelf stuff, a little trial and error but I think this is about right, maybe a little light on spring, we'll see - all bought at Tacoma Screw just browsing the floor

the main part was a scrap of aluminum, I started by milling the top O.D. and drilling the hole, then I flipped it over and held it in a chuck, milled the entire rest in one shot... the two mounting holes were freehand to scribed lines.

total cost about $25 and I have enough junk to make a couple more (5 or 6) I am not planning too however because I had trouble fitting mine up due to a factory SSK which changed everything from the car I copied this from...too many variables to make it worth making a bunch of them so for now this is a one off - the prototype is already spoken for....here are pics of the final product

2specs

Ed (aka MaGyver)....that's awesome...keep us posted on how it works.

ivangene

could not wait to install, its in... too bad its raining again for another month in Seattle, we had (1) day of nice weather (read no rain) in that last 3 months

Ed Hughes

Two things:

1. You're missing the two tangs which are really the "secret sauce" in the design.

2. I'm glad you're not making any more. IMO, this is a great design that Sherwood developed, and well, I think he deserves the sales he gets.

ivangene

early series Seine's did not have the tangs, I understand the reason for them and will most likely work on that next. - (BTW its not secret sause, its to keep side loads off the shifter when in 1-2 galley) second thing is I am not trying to make money or take away sales from him. He has a great product and has refined it over the years..

His refinements have turned it into a really cheap to make product. A tube cut to length and a piece of bent sheet metal welded to it with 2 holes. Some screws and springs....The top plate is water jet cutout and bent....pretty simple to produce.

The early ones were at least machined and that is what I like - a nice machined part..... so I machined my own, WITH my own design

Ed Hughes

The tangs on the LH side create the gate through which you must navigate to get to second gear. Trust me, as one who has done the money shift at the track, that is the key in this. The spring loading assists by creating the default shift plane between 3-4, and provides tension one must overcome to go to second (and creates for a nice upshift), but keeping the shifter from inadvertently being pulled into second (or I suppose 1st) is the main point in all of this.

ivangene

I agree

with some exception

I feel the spring does more than the gate because without the spring you couold still enter the gate inadvertantly - together they are a good idea...if you only had (1) I would pick the spring

Ed Hughes

That's the point: I think either one by itself is not very effective. You mentioned early design-that must've been VERY early without the tangs-I don't think I've ever seen one. IMO, the version today is what really is impressive.

If I were going to build a computer at home, it wouldn't be a Commodore 64.

ivangene

Well hopefully if you did build the Commodore I wouldn't try and tear it down

:middlefinger:

ivangene

So for those of you who want to know how the Commodore is running:

I drove a little last night and then to work today, I have to say its very effective at letting me know where I am at... the spring is just right and wont allow me to get into the 1-2 plane without effort... more importantly I can come out of 5th and it drops right inline with 4 without "thinking" also heading to 4 from 3 is a "no fear" move as it stays tight in the plane - overall I am very happy with it, glad I made the thing

rusnak

So, how's it shift?

Edit: oops I see. Beautiful, baby! Groovy!

ivangene

Very good....very happy....very confident....

Ed Hughes

Wasn't tearing it down, just pointing out the feature I think is important after having the Seine in for about 3 years now.

whalebird

I like it. Great DIY project Just a thought for fun, Could it be done? maybe a roller where the head of the bolt contacts the rod to reduce the friction. Over a period of time the contact friction could (maybe) gall the area and give a resistance of sorts to the action. Or at least a teflon cap on the bolt head? Just a discussion question for fun...

ivangene

NP Ed, I know you well enough at this point - I think

WB - good point, I did thiink about a ball or other surface to reduce friction but really in the end thought "keep it simple" and it seems perfect. One of the challenges of NOT anodyzing the aluminum is that it can become sticky when the stainless bolt runs in it...I had to work a bit to reduce that and was also fearful of it sticking - in the end its super smooth so I may have just been over thinking it...

I do have plans to add the gate - it will take some time because work is pretty darn busy now - if i get one figured out I will post it too