Purchase advice on 89 911
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Purchase advice on 89 911
Hey guys,
I came across an 89 GrandPrix White - I am on the fence but wanted to get your feedback
- Miles 90k
- Seller Purchased from original owner from NY and shipped to CA last year
- Distress seller (according to him)
- Seller was Porsche mechanic
- Oil looked clean - Did not ask oil consumption yet.
- Carfax clean
- No paperwork
- Engine runs fine, no smoke, no clicking noise
- Clutch fine
- Some cosmetic work (dents and some interior work) but nothing major
- No leaks
- Fuchs have rash and might need refinishing
- No rust
I have read the differences and upgrades that the 89s have and think this might be a good addition to the family.
He is at $14k range on the car now and I know seems as a good deal. I am willing to take in a "minor" project and if I can get for a few less I might take the risk assuming my PPI comes ok. So the questions I have are:
- Shall I try to get it for less? What price point shall I shoot for?
- Will this hurt me in resale if I have no paperwork history?
- Shall I worry about a top end rebuilt? I heard if engine was taken care of it is needed at 150k miles, right?
Not sure if I missed something but any advice is appreciated
Thanks in advance
I came across an 89 GrandPrix White - I am on the fence but wanted to get your feedback
- Miles 90k
- Seller Purchased from original owner from NY and shipped to CA last year
- Distress seller (according to him)
- Seller was Porsche mechanic
- Oil looked clean - Did not ask oil consumption yet.
- Carfax clean
- No paperwork
- Engine runs fine, no smoke, no clicking noise
- Clutch fine
- Some cosmetic work (dents and some interior work) but nothing major
- No leaks
- Fuchs have rash and might need refinishing
- No rust
I have read the differences and upgrades that the 89s have and think this might be a good addition to the family.
He is at $14k range on the car now and I know seems as a good deal. I am willing to take in a "minor" project and if I can get for a few less I might take the risk assuming my PPI comes ok. So the questions I have are:
- Shall I try to get it for less? What price point shall I shoot for?
- Will this hurt me in resale if I have no paperwork history?
- Shall I worry about a top end rebuilt? I heard if engine was taken care of it is needed at 150k miles, right?
Not sure if I missed something but any advice is appreciated
Thanks in advance
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Well, it is a G50 and despite the fact that a good 915 is not bad, a G50 is still a better transmission in many respects ASSUMING it is in good condition. A G50 is (more) expensive to fix.
A solid '89 at $14K sounds good on the face of it, but a lot will really depend on the true condition. Cosmetic issues are hard to judge in print. If you want the car looking really good, then consider that the cosmetic stuff can take a lot of coin to get right.
Important stuff to look for:
PPI leakdown and compression - you want to see a motor that does need a top end now.
Rust: It looks rust-free, which is great, but make sure a thorough inpsection is carried out anyway. Be particularly careful on the battery area. An otherwise perfectly rust-free car may have issues lurking here.
Suspension: Likely all rubber bushings etc. are due. This is something you might want to budget for after purchase.
Depending on how that all looks, this could be a good buy. If you can get clear pictures, post them here and we can help pick it apart!
A solid '89 at $14K sounds good on the face of it, but a lot will really depend on the true condition. Cosmetic issues are hard to judge in print. If you want the car looking really good, then consider that the cosmetic stuff can take a lot of coin to get right.
Important stuff to look for:
PPI leakdown and compression - you want to see a motor that does need a top end now.
Rust: It looks rust-free, which is great, but make sure a thorough inpsection is carried out anyway. Be particularly careful on the battery area. An otherwise perfectly rust-free car may have issues lurking here.
Suspension: Likely all rubber bushings etc. are due. This is something you might want to budget for after purchase.
Depending on how that all looks, this could be a good buy. If you can get clear pictures, post them here and we can help pick it apart!
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I will be making a decision in the next few days if I should pursue the car. He is open for a PPI at a dealer or Indy so that makes me feel confident that he is not hiding anything on the car.
#7
Intermediate
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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francars--If this car passes a PPI and has no "hidden" problems, you are purchasing the car under
market value. Just because the seller is open to a PPI, and this makes you feel confident that nothing is amiss--still you must place yourself in the position of knowledge by going ahead and having the PPI performed. Don't generalize and don't assume--but instead adopt Reagan's famous line- "Trust-but verify"
market value. Just because the seller is open to a PPI, and this makes you feel confident that nothing is amiss--still you must place yourself in the position of knowledge by going ahead and having the PPI performed. Don't generalize and don't assume--but instead adopt Reagan's famous line- "Trust-but verify"
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#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'd make sure the ppi includes a careful examination of the chassis for ancient repair - & that the guy doing it is expert in old 911 chassis issues - an '89 has 22 yrs of history. also, remind the inspector to examine closely for exposure issues - corrosion on exposed metal / fixtures / hardware underneath. signs of past dampness invading the chassis, underhood, underlid, interior. underused / exposed cars from the NE that appear fantastic (on their surfaces) can have issues that are not-so-common among the examples W Coast guys are accustomed to seeing. have fun & good luck!
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I believe generally leakdown values less than 10% across all cylinders are considered fine. When I had mine done, they were all less than 4%, which the mechanic noted was very good.
Compression I am a little more uncertain about, but numbers ~160 to 180 psi on a U.S. 3.2 seem to be about right. Maybe someone can give a better answer here.
Not only are the absolute numbers important, but also the consistency between cylinders.
Compression test results can be altered by squirting oil into the cylinders (which will bump up the numbers) and both tests should give different numbers between a cold and warm engine. There are various schools of thought on the "best practices" for this test.
I would find a reputable, independent shop to do the test that REALLY knows 911s and pay close attention not just to the numbers, but also the mechanic's comparative opinion.
Compression I am a little more uncertain about, but numbers ~160 to 180 psi on a U.S. 3.2 seem to be about right. Maybe someone can give a better answer here.
Not only are the absolute numbers important, but also the consistency between cylinders.
Compression test results can be altered by squirting oil into the cylinders (which will bump up the numbers) and both tests should give different numbers between a cold and warm engine. There are various schools of thought on the "best practices" for this test.
I would find a reputable, independent shop to do the test that REALLY knows 911s and pay close attention not just to the numbers, but also the mechanic's comparative opinion.
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks for the opinions on subject. So are you guys saying NOT to take it to dealer? I know the Service Manager (who owns an earlier Aircooled as well) so he knows the cars.
My other option is take it to my Indy who LOVES Aircooled. Reason why I am using the dealer is that PPI is same amount (~$300ish) as Indy and the seller knows the Service Manager.
My other option is take it to my Indy who LOVES Aircooled. Reason why I am using the dealer is that PPI is same amount (~$300ish) as Indy and the seller knows the Service Manager.
#12
uninformed gas bag
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
Rennlist Member
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
Rennlist Member
I believe generally leakdown values less than 10% across all cylinders are considered fine. When I had mine done, they were all less than 4%, which the mechanic noted was very good.
Compression I am a little more uncertain about, but numbers ~160 to 180 psi on a U.S. 3.2 seem to be about right. Maybe someone can give a better answer here.
Not only are the absolute numbers important, but also the consistency between cylinders.
Compression test results can be altered by squirting oil into the cylinders (which will bump up the numbers) and both tests should give different numbers between a cold and warm engine. There are various schools of thought on the "best practices" for this test.
I would find a reputable, independent shop to do the test that REALLY knows 911s and pay close attention not just to the numbers, but also the mechanic's comparative opinion.
Compression I am a little more uncertain about, but numbers ~160 to 180 psi on a U.S. 3.2 seem to be about right. Maybe someone can give a better answer here.
Not only are the absolute numbers important, but also the consistency between cylinders.
Compression test results can be altered by squirting oil into the cylinders (which will bump up the numbers) and both tests should give different numbers between a cold and warm engine. There are various schools of thought on the "best practices" for this test.
I would find a reputable, independent shop to do the test that REALLY knows 911s and pay close attention not just to the numbers, but also the mechanic's comparative opinion.
Most Porsche dealers don't know a lot about the older cars let alone a PPI on one.
#13
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'd go for the guy who has the most knowledge and experience, no matter who or where. He's the one who will best be able to give you good counsel, and even then it's not like a Good Housekeeping seal of approval. It comes down to experience. The more of it, the better. Caveat Emptor.
#14
Rennlist Member
Maybe not. As 500 points out, a paint job alone for a 911 isn't cheap. You can spend $5K in an instant for a non-show quality job. He says "dentS", which got my antenna up.
#15
Rennlist Member
East coast car, dents, you are "on the fence"....
Keep looking.
BTW, it's great having an air-cooled and a water-cooled. Nice "dilemma" to have every day.
Keep looking.
BTW, it's great having an air-cooled and a water-cooled. Nice "dilemma" to have every day.