race911

Got 10 or 15 of them in a box.....somewhere........if you go that direction and screw up.

(Transaxle related thing of the day--got to pick through the carcass of a 993 GT2 box today that got to see action at all the usual places like Daytona and Sebring back in the day.)

rusnak

Here are the pictures.

The sides are gone, and you can see my aborted attempt to drill a hole in the center when I first got the car. I've been using the shift cover to drain the oil or pumping the old oil out of the fill hole.

The second picture is a new plug. It was one of the first things I bought when I got the car.

ivangene

Sorry man, I dont think its that big of a deal...

Any machinist with any experience will have had to do worse thru his/her own mistakes years and years ago (hopefully they learned how to avoid this, but remember how to recover from it)

I have drilled out tungstun carbide broken taps, bolts, hardened thread inserts, bearings, and a multitude of other things stuck in materials ranging from plastic, to steel, to aluminum and hastaloy/inconel/monel and damn near everything else under the sun and moon - just looks like a stuck plug to me

is the tranmission out?

so if I were you I would do it myself with some help from us. - you need to be able to put some presure on the drill - so like have the plug facing straight up low on the grond and you over top of it so you can put your weight into it. Second you need a drill thet spins slow - really slow - then you have to make yourself a little "collar" or "stop" for the drill bit so once it breaks thru you dont "push it" in and hit something you dont want to hit - start with a small hole.... not sure if the material is hardened, you can get a carbide drill (they dont cost much) and ALL FORCE MUST BE STRAIGHT - carbide will not flex... if you dont drill straight it will shatter - I would use a Cobalt drill as a first attempt with a 135 deg tip angle... have your kid hold the shop vac onver the bit (with safety glasses on) and suck the chips out as you make them... a little cutting ouil can help but I dont always use it... I would rather just do it dry - your biggest concern is heat. heast on a drill is bad (well technicaly a little heat is required, but for the most part) heat will wear the tip down very quickly and then just develope more heat... not chips

once the hole is in there an easy out should pull that bad boy right out... I would not think the threads will be a problem, I would not expect anything to be a problem

now all you have to do is either find a machinist/mechanic who knows what he/she is doing or get on it yourself - as far as I am concerned this is 1/2 done alread

theiceman

hmm that one does look tricky ... the mating area mashed up between the plug and transmision is actually the bad news. Not the plug itself .. think it is one of those " since you worked on it first it is way more expemsive" deals.

still i would weld a bolt into that recess then put a wrench on the bolt and turn , if that doesn't work you still have other options.

ivangene

from the looks (dont know) of the plug, it seals internal... not on the outter surface (mating surface) like a motor oil plug - so the hole is tapered right?

yea... geat idea with welding on a bolt

I finally have the guys on the line at work trained to stop as soon as there is a problem... it turns out, as ice says, its easier to fix before someone tries to fix it (who doesnt do the right things)

Ed Hughes

Welding a hex on seems to be the best idea by far. That sucker is mangled!

UberXY

The drain plug is steel, correct?

Years ago a shop rounded off the oil drain bolt on a Mercedes we had. I took it to the local ancient Mercedes independent, figuring he would want to put a new oil pan on. Instead, he picked up a six inch piece of rebar, tack welded it to the bolt head, gave the rebar one gentle tap with a hammer, and problem solved. 5 minutes.

Maybe that could work for you.

rusnak

I appreciate the discussion guys, I value your feedback....

Will have time to digest and think about it later.