RS Clone, cont'.
01-23-2011, 10:53 AM
#1
Racer
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RS Clone, cont'.
A month or so ago, I posted a question regarding the value of RS clones. Thank you to all who provided advice and great pictures. My quest continues and I have some questions for the community as I evaluate what I learned during a PPI.
The car I am looking at is a '69 912 body with an '85 3.2l and a 915 transmission. My shop tells me a very solid car, no rust and for the most part pretty well put together. It as an SC suspension with a couple of issues. So my questions.
Suspension: there is no rear sway bar. Seems a basic need given the horsepower and with one on the front. What size would I use? The left front cross member mounting has been damaged by the low hanging bolt having been hit. The result ripped the bolt from the car and tore the aluminum bracket. A tab has been installed to span from the front bolt to the rear one, about 2 inches. Seems to me the cross member should be replaced. Seems solid, but it is clearly a patch not a repair. What does that entail?
When they mounted the aluminum bananas in the rear from the SC, the shock pick up points do not align with the old 912 points and the shocks rub. The fix apparently is to increase the size of the opening in the top shock mounting structure to allow for the clearance needed. Then to reinforce the new structure. What other issues might this cause?
There are a couple of other issues, but those for right now are what I would like advice about. I am leaning to buying the car as a project. Consensus by the PPI shop is it is a good solid car to start, but with the hybrid body/drive train, hard to value.
Thanks in advance
The car I am looking at is a '69 912 body with an '85 3.2l and a 915 transmission. My shop tells me a very solid car, no rust and for the most part pretty well put together. It as an SC suspension with a couple of issues. So my questions.
Suspension: there is no rear sway bar. Seems a basic need given the horsepower and with one on the front. What size would I use? The left front cross member mounting has been damaged by the low hanging bolt having been hit. The result ripped the bolt from the car and tore the aluminum bracket. A tab has been installed to span from the front bolt to the rear one, about 2 inches. Seems to me the cross member should be replaced. Seems solid, but it is clearly a patch not a repair. What does that entail?
When they mounted the aluminum bananas in the rear from the SC, the shock pick up points do not align with the old 912 points and the shocks rub. The fix apparently is to increase the size of the opening in the top shock mounting structure to allow for the clearance needed. Then to reinforce the new structure. What other issues might this cause?
There are a couple of other issues, but those for right now are what I would like advice about. I am leaning to buying the car as a project. Consensus by the PPI shop is it is a good solid car to start, but with the hybrid body/drive train, hard to value.
Thanks in advance
01-24-2011, 10:32 PM
#4
Sway Bars-sway bar sizes typically match front to rear. Using adjustable bars will allow you to fine tune understeer/oversteer. Sizes range frrom ~15mm stock on the early cars to what, ~27mm aftermarket? 19 and 21mm are the most common aftermarket sizes.
Cross member-Yes, that needs to be fixed. Is just the aluminum part broken? Are you sure the chassis was not damaged as well?
If it's just the aluminum part, that can be replaced but it is still a significant job, as you have to disassemble the front suspension, then put it all back together and set the ride height.
Aluminum bananas-Yep, they don't really fit. The shock mounting boss needs to be cut down, then you might still get rubbing on the earlier chassis. I removed the metal dust covers on my '71 to gain the needed clearance and used a rubber boot to keep the dust out. See here-
http://members.rennlist.com/911pcars...ContrlArms.htm
Cross member-Yes, that needs to be fixed. Is just the aluminum part broken? Are you sure the chassis was not damaged as well?
If it's just the aluminum part, that can be replaced but it is still a significant job, as you have to disassemble the front suspension, then put it all back together and set the ride height.
Aluminum bananas-Yep, they don't really fit. The shock mounting boss needs to be cut down, then you might still get rubbing on the earlier chassis. I removed the metal dust covers on my '71 to gain the needed clearance and used a rubber boot to keep the dust out. See here-
http://members.rennlist.com/911pcars...ContrlArms.htm
01-27-2011, 10:39 AM
#6
Racer
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Todd
One more question. Read the article, thank you. What method did you use to get the shock alignment without rubbing? The shop I talked with suggested opening up the passage, not moving the top shock mount and reinforcing the enlarged hole. Thoughts?
One more question. Read the article, thank you. What method did you use to get the shock alignment without rubbing? The shop I talked with suggested opening up the passage, not moving the top shock mount and reinforcing the enlarged hole. Thoughts?
01-27-2011, 09:40 PM
#7
Look at page 3 of the article-confirm the aluminum trailing arm has had the 1" removed at the shock mounting bolt.
Once that's done, it will be close but the shocks will likely still rub. At that point, remove the upper metal dust cover from the shock and replace it with a rubber cover, like you'd see on an off road truck.
Many, many people have done this mod without cutting anything on the chassis. The two mods above will get you there.
Once that's done, it will be close but the shocks will likely still rub. At that point, remove the upper metal dust cover from the shock and replace it with a rubber cover, like you'd see on an off road truck.
Many, many people have done this mod without cutting anything on the chassis. The two mods above will get you there.