Notices
911 Forum 1964-1989
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Intercity Lines, LLC

Oliver's '89 powertrain refresh thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-02-2011, 09:45 PM
  #1  
User 4221
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
User 4221's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,031
Received 47 Likes on 29 Posts
Default Oliver's '89 powertrain refresh thread

After killing the original rubber centered clutch in August, I finally got around to dropping the drivetrain and getting to work on all the WYAIT stuff. Oliver (my 4 y.o. has been hounding me to get "his" car fixed so we can go for a ride).

I dropped the engine/trans last weekend. So far, no surprises except the transmission was grungy from a CV boot that failed and was repaired long ago.

Thus far I have done the following:
- Dropped powertrain
- Separated engine/trans (The clutch arm removal was a minor PITA but eventually came out)
- Begun cleaning trans (See above)
- Pulled clutch off engine.... Clutch disc and flywheel still had much service life remaining. Confirmed loud clanging was rubber center failure as it had ripped around the perimeter the center mates to the disc. I will post pics of the clutch disc later.

I have a lot more in store (including a thorough cleaning) and will post updates as I go along.

Here's a shot of the destroyed clutch center.... Still some meat on the disc


More tearing from the perimeter of the rubber center


Flywheel looks OK


A shot of the grungy transmission after a few mins of cleaning with a nylon bristle brush.


The gratuitous engine bay shot... No, I will not be posing in the vacancy.... Nor will Oliver

Last edited by User 4221; 01-02-2011 at 10:25 PM.
Old 01-06-2011, 11:53 PM
  #2  
User 4221
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
User 4221's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,031
Received 47 Likes on 29 Posts
Default

I got the trans cleaned up and am doing a visual. All looks OK so far.

The guide tube literally fell off when I got the screws out (with some of the blue wrench). I think the G50 tubes are different from the 915 where they come out easier.

As a preemptive WYAIT item, I am considering replacing the shifter shaft seal and the axle flange seals. I know they can be done with the trans in the car, but it can be done much easier with the trans removed. Its few more $$ but hassle avoidance may be worth it.

What type of failure rate do these seals see?
Old 01-07-2011, 12:14 AM
  #3  
rusnak
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
 
rusnak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 11,501
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

yours looks so much cleaner than mine....
Old 01-07-2011, 01:07 AM
  #4  
ivangene
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
 
ivangene's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 16,326
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

so Scott, how long to pull the motor/trans out yourself at home?

took em out as a unit?
Old 01-07-2011, 09:39 AM
  #5  
User 4221
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
User 4221's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,031
Received 47 Likes on 29 Posts
Default

Yep, I took them out as a unit in the garage.

Taking my time and inspecting things along the way, I would estimate about 4-ish hours.

Next time I would expect to do it in about 2.5-3.

It wasn't bad at all.
Old 01-07-2011, 04:34 PM
  #6  
Ed Hughes
Rennlist Member
 
Ed Hughes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 16,518
Received 79 Likes on 53 Posts
Default

That'll look great.

I think you're right with the estimate on time. The third time you're closer to 2 hours, if you leave the trans in, which I think is easiest, if you're only doing motor work. The trans mounts are not as easy as the engine mounts, and I HATE SCREWING AROUND WITH CV's. So much so, I've not installed my new captive Stage 8 CV bolts.....forgot I even bought them!
Old 01-07-2011, 06:38 PM
  #7  
rusnak
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
 
rusnak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 11,501
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Yes. I hate...HATE those CVs. I usually take both sides off because you know you have to clean and re-pack them before putting them back in use.
Old 01-12-2011, 12:27 AM
  #8  
Tango635
Racer
 
Tango635's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hmmm, so what all you got planned? Are you going with the spring centered or rubber centered clutch?

I'm guessing you already know about the shift fork update? There are two versions, one with needle bearings that requires drilling the case and one with bronze bushings which does not:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...Tclutc_pg6.htm

Also, installation article:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...G50_clutch.htm
Old 01-12-2011, 04:37 PM
  #9  
User 4221
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
User 4221's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,031
Received 47 Likes on 29 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
That'll look great.

I think you're right with the estimate on time. The third time you're closer to 2 hours, if you leave the trans in, which I think is easiest, if you're only doing motor work. The trans mounts are not as easy as the engine mounts, and I HATE SCREWING AROUND WITH CV's. So much so, I've not installed my new captive Stage 8 CV bolts.....forgot I even bought them!
I've got the Stage 8 stuff ready to go back in.

Unfortunately, the way the G50 mates to the engine, it is easier to pull them as a unit. Why? Because the release arm is caught between the release bearing and the pivot shaft on the trans. Thus, you have to pull the pivot arm shaft to separate the engine/trans. This is easier with them out of the car from what I can tell.
Old 01-12-2011, 04:48 PM
  #10  
User 4221
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
User 4221's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,031
Received 47 Likes on 29 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tango635
Hmmm, so what all you got planned? Are you going with the spring centered or rubber centered clutch?

I'm guessing you already know about the shift fork update? There are two versions, one with needle bearings that requires drilling the case and one with bronze bushings which does not:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...Tclutc_pg6.htm

Also, installation article:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...G50_clutch.htm
Yep, here's what I'm doing.
- Spring centered clutch kit (after seeing the rubber center design, it was a no-brainer
- Flywheel
- Flywheel seal
- Release bearing
- Guide tube
- Release arm
- Release arm update (bushing style with no boring)
- Input shaft seal
- Axle flange seals
- Shifter seal
- Slave cylinder
- Slave hose
- Speed sensor
- Reference sender
- CHT
- All o-rings on temp sender and oil cooler
- Oil return hose (big rubber line behind passenger rear wheel)
- Vacuum hoses
- Fuel lines
- Fuel filter
- Valve adjust
- Intake gaskets
- Intake boot (rubber boot between intake halves)
- Fuel injector service
- MAF inspection (will check out contact tracks)
- Flexible brake lines
- Caliper rebuilds (Thanks Ed!)
- New brake pads
- Thorough scrubbing of all surfaces
- New Steering wheel (993 RS from Momo)


I'm just about to dive into the engine work this weekend (if it warms up some).
There's a few more odds/ends while I'm in there.

My goal is to get the car sorted to the point that I can go 100k miles before I (ahem, my son) have to do this again...... Crossing fingers
Old 01-12-2011, 11:25 PM
  #11  
joseph mitro
Race Car
 
joseph mitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,009
Received 246 Likes on 160 Posts
Default

looking nice!
what about the top end seals? breather tank seals and gaskets, etc? did you already mention that
Old 01-12-2011, 11:55 PM
  #12  
rusnak
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
 
rusnak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 11,501
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Some of my troubles covered in the "Dang Clutch" thread should help you out.

Before we figured out that the Craftsman 11mm flare wrench is a POS, I managed to round out my LR hard brake line fitting, which has to be separated from the flexible brake hose (you mentioned you were changing brake hoses). Well, I said screw it, and cut the line with a pair of bolt cutters in order to get the suspension arm out so that I could change the bushings. I figured it was going to be trashed anyway and it's better to order a new $30 hard brake line. Guess what? It had to come from Germany!!! I'm still waiting for it to get here. With luck, it'll be here Friday and I can finally drive my 911 on Monday, almost two months after I parked it.
Old 01-13-2011, 12:00 AM
  #13  
Ed Hughes
Rennlist Member
 
Ed Hughes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 16,518
Received 79 Likes on 53 Posts
Default

2 months??!! It only took me 4 to do the engine this time!
Old 01-13-2011, 12:17 AM
  #14  
User 4221
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
User 4221's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,031
Received 47 Likes on 29 Posts
Default

In my best 'Mater voice..... Shhhheeeewwt..... Mine's been down' since August.

Rusnak, I was following your thread very closely. My car has 78k on the clock and (knocks on wood) all fittings have come apart with no drama. I do use penetrant oil where necessary.

What hose are you waiting on? If I have it I can get it to you and order a new one.

On a positive note, I think the trans issue may not be as bad as expected.
Old 01-13-2011, 12:20 AM
  #15  
User 4221
Addict
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
User 4221's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,031
Received 47 Likes on 29 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by joseph mitro
looking nice!
what about the top end seals? breather tank seals and gaskets, etc? did you already mention that
I'm afraid I don't follow 100% on the top-end seals and breather tank seals.
I'm sure I know what you mean, I'm too tired to 'cipher tonight

PS: The engine goes on the stand tomorrow following a solid bench/garage cleanup to ensure a tidy space.


Quick Reply: Oliver's '89 powertrain refresh thread



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 09:32 PM.