Dave Thomas

Those damn OEM headlight seals are worthless - I replaced mine 2 years ago and the new ones have already come apart at the seam. Ugh. Rusnak's suggestion to align the tabs is a good one - you can do it with a needlenose if the icepick is too scary :> I've got those nylon sockets and they're just fine, no heat issues at all. You are going to pee your pants the first time you switch these on in the dark.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Lookin' REAL good.

You are most welcome, Sir.

Now,..you'll be able to see at night.

rusnak

I just now realized how important headlight adjustment is, when you do the geometry. You guys are a bright bunch! Thanks!

Amber Gramps

Yep, and what a blast this car is at night.

This picture is on loan from imcarthur for use when splicing the wires.

Have you seen the boatload of links he has compiled? It should be a sticky.

Amber Gramps

I've been looking everywhere for a wiring diagram to splice out the H5 socket and splice in the H4 socket and wouldn't ya know that Pelican has an adapter that costs $4.75

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...o%20H4,%20each

Shouldn't I just go with two of them and call it a day?

rusnak

Without knowing what you have, and what is required, I would say no, don't order the adapter. The reason is that the normal H4 socket is bad (loose) enough, and those things take a lot of vibration and road shock. Having two piggybacked onto the back of the headlight, all cantilevered out like that can't be ideal. And then there is all that amperage to screw with your connectors.

If you are stuck, post some pics and describe what you're contending with, and us non-H5 guys should be able to figure it out.

Amber Gramps

Ya know what??? You are such a nice guy and have not sent me astray in the past so I'll snap another shot. Just understand that I've just come back from my second trip to a gym in 4 days after what was a 21 year break. I've gotta work off all the spareribs...

Amber Gramps

Here are the old and new sockets from front and back. Once I took the boot off the H4 and took a good look at the wires it will be a simple matter of matching up the colors. I remember that brown is ground but I gotta pull the Bentely to confirm the others.

rusnak

You could just hook the voltmeter up, and see which is low and which is high.

Halogen lights like tight connections and low resistence, so make sure you use a good crimp tool.

Amber Gramps

There goes the idea that I'm suppose to disconnect the battery before doing any electrical work.

rusnak

Have your kid hold the tester.

Amber Gramps

basically I just gotta confirm that yellow is low beam and blue is high beam (I know brown is ground) and that the slots in both the H4 and H5 are oriented in the same general location.

Black will splice to brown (ground)

Green will splice to yellow (low)

red will splice to blue (high)

rusnak

Seems straighforward. I think OSH has some high quality heavy duty crimps. Otherwise you might have to go with McMaster. Kragen or Autozone crimp connectors are not so good.

btw - I'm trying to lose weight, so I have been excercising more with free weights at home. Steady progress takes time. Don't hurt yourself!

Amber Gramps

I have an assortment of heavy duty crimps that will do the trick followed up with shrink tubing and corrugated conduit and zip ties. It will look very clean.

and I finally broke out the Bently manual and the wire color/beam combos are as listed above.

Now to figure out the relay...

dshepp806

Must mix that aerobic with anaerobic,..that is, if you're looking to "burn" those calories.

Equally important: caloric intake (and what kinds)....


Interested in this thread, as I'm an H5 guy lookin' for good lumins (NOT headlamp lense changeouts).

MANY THANKS!

Doyle