Ed Hughes

Well, you need to backtrack then. It ain't gonna run with the firing order wrong.
Seems like the mechanic has some ownership in this.

whalebird

Make sure the air box (big black plastic thing on top of the motor that houses all the injection) is not cracked around the seam or anywhere else. It's hard to see because the bulk of it is toward the frontside of the motor.

marrott01

Would a pop off valve on an air box still have alot of pressure on it to lift it up if the air box was cracked?

theiceman

Holly crap what a mess ..... lets get back to basics ... you need to fix this car stop patching and swapping bits .. fix the obvious and start troubleshooting ..

But a few baseline questions ....

1. How does it run once you have bump started it and it is warmed up ? does it run normally without backfiring and does it run strong ?

The answer to this is key as it elimintates a lot .. but lets get to some basics ..

when the car is running and warmed up do a base CO check. This is the single most important thing to starting a CIS car. you should not pump or touch the gas at all when starting ..

The pump should NOT be running unless cranking on a CIS car .. this could be flooding the engine before you even get a chance to start it . that is why bumo starting it works as you are clearing the engine. so first fix the fuel pump relay circuit so it only comes on when you carnk . The only time you should hear that pump run without the car running is when you have the igntion on and lift up on the air plate.

Cold control pressure is what you would check next. and as it warms up the pressure will change . This has specs in the bentley.

The pop off valve is on a powerfull spring and should seal close at all times . it should be seated and selaed . if it is not you have unregulated air enetering the system and the car will not start.

report back on some of this and we will go from there..

a very common eror when ripping out the CIS intake system is mixing up the blue connectors on the back of the CIS . One plugs into the air plate sensor and the other one plugs into the cold start injector . Check these as they are fully interchangable.

The fuel accumulator is for hot start only .. as you have no cold start assist when the engine is warm the accumulators job is to maintain fuel pressure in the system.

Amber Gramps

firing order...who makes that mistake??????

that would do it, but SRSLY something to check

Are the spark plug caps on tight?

It's either a vacuum leak or a spark issue.

whalebird

I think Ice is on the right track, but look good at that airbox, even if it does have a pop off. Another thing. IIRC, a 74 has a fuel pump beside the drivers rear wheel well. A different set up altogether than a 3.0. Make sure that what you have is all compatible then start diagnosing. Check off airbox, then head straight for the fuel pressures(assuming the ignition wires are on correctly and in the right order).
A proper fuel pressure test has a number of different step requiring you to do different things with the gauge at different locations within the system. Do all the steps as described - they are probably posted here and a search will get you what you need for data.

Ed Hughes

Unless this thing backfired or got damaged reinstalling, the simple stuff is what needs to be done. Backtrack thru all connections and look at what ice suggested.

It ran fine.
It was disassembled to fix leaks.
It was put back together.
It won't start on the starter motor now.

marrott01

Thx for all the good advise fellas, will report back when i have determined something worth mentioning, im just the back seat driver here.

psychoideas

You got it!

whalebird

I wasn't assuming this thing ran fine. I suspect it ran terrible, if at all, when it went to the "shop". They could't fix it and told the guy to come and pick it up(surely after closing time). Now the lump is getting pushed around just to start and somebody doesn't have the resources to sort it out.
I'm definitly suspect of this "shop"

Ed Hughes

I was just going by post 14. I agree, the alleged mechanic screwed the pooch here. I'd say they need to start with the basics and see what didn't get hooked up correctly.

marrott01

The car ran fine originally but w/ a slight high idle( considering the car sat for 14 years in mostly 100 degree heat, outside, in st.george, utah) but had the oil leaks described. The OWNER pulled the engine ani ftxed the leaks himself, after re-assembly car would not fire except bump starting, thats when Permatune became suspect to him because he is possitive he reassembled everything correctly (by memory alone) and then trailered it to said "mechanic" , the car took awhile to start the first time and did not start the next morning. AND HERE WE ARE..

Amber Gramps

St. George. Now we know what's wrong with it. You should have just been upfront with us. I took this shot in early June.

Ed Hughes

The ignition magically failed when it was sitting on the workbench? You said the owner was not mechanically inclined in your first post. Now, you state he is sure he put it back together perfectly?

What am I misunderstanding?

I still say start from square one and prove it is back together correctly.

marrott01

By mechanically inclined imeant everything he touches breaks, also how he droped the engine by pulling car up on the trailer and cutting the entire center out and dropping the