MUSSBERGER

Yum.

Big brakes.

911tracker85

sig_a, you KNOW I just can't help myself.......

thanks for all the posts.

John, I hope you do not feel I took this thread too far off track. I do believe brakes may be one of the most important issues when you track a car.

I have been running in advanced/solo for the past 3 yrs and with the help of some good instructors pushing my car near its limits more and more. no plans for club racing.

truely learning to threshold brake aggressively and brake correctly all the time is a bit difficult to master. especially when you are becoming concerned your brakes are not up to it.

Ed,
Exactly. I have been looking at various options, but really like the 930 set. let's me retain the option to run my old fuchs. so $3k to build my own, or $5k to get what I want at this point. I am in so deep....

MUSSBERGER, you know imitation is the most sincere form of flattery.

g-50cab

IF you look at the E and F guys - they typically - depending on the track, are rebuilding calipers and replacing rotors pretty often - much more often than a DE driver.

Yes, you learn to manage your brakes - but I personally feel that brake issues - having a soft pedal does not instill confidence going into a corner. Not having confidence makes you test your brakes earlier, which can mean that you are on your brakes more - giving them less time to cool. Which can make you exacerbate your braking issues.

You can get away with a lot (and by a lot, I mean sticky R tires, wider wheels, more HP) if you go with cooling - ideally hosed from the front bumper, direct cooling AJ brake backing plates, if you go with an aggressive pad such as Hawk Blues, or PFC97's, You make sure your rotors are at the top end of their wear cycles (remember it's mass you want), and you use the Castrol SRF brake fluid. Yes, spendy - but less expensive than a full 930 system.

These are my Carrera Brakes after a day at Sebring a few years ago - the SRF held up great - no fade at all - two drivers with my car (1987 Cabriolet, 8's and 9's RA1 Tires), full sessions - new metal master pads the day of.. (I now carry a spare set of pads...

911tracker85

exactly. I have been reaching over with my left foot to test the brakes very lightly as I approach the braking zone at the end of longer straights. just a very quick touch, and I don't think I use enough pressure to generate much heat, just enough to be sure I sense some pressure.

an instructor friend with a relatively stock SC who is very fast had cooked his brake fluid a couple years ago and had NO brakes at the end of a straght at 120mph. fortunately no damage to any cars, but as he went spinning across the inside of the corner after swerving to avoid rear-ending two other cars they all went off track into the gravel pit. it increased my sense of concern about my brakes.

I am still working at consistently braking correctly. I am not sure on the correct term, brake forward? that is, brake hard early then ease off, rather than brake harder as you get into the end of the braking zone.

and I also brake earlier in the zone than optimum for best times. then breathe in a little thottle to maintain the speed I want to turn-in. I am preferring to sacrifice those couple seconds to ensure survival than achieve the fastest lap times.

I installed the brake cooling ducts a couple years ago, and this past winter extened the duct to the fog light openings in the front valance for optimun air flow.

my plan this winter is to completely rebuild all calipers, new front rotors, and replace my MC with a turbo MC. using the boxster front calipers takes more pedal travel with a stock MC. from talking to a couple other guys using the boxster calipers they use turbo MCs. with that you get a firm pedal with limited travel since I have the stock 2 piston rears.

I have 17" X 8/9 using Nito NT01. I am planning to go to pagid orange/black front/rear. I may go to Motul to see how well it holds up before going all the way to SRF.

I am also considering installing an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear line. I am learning Porsche installed a fixed bias valve on the rear line to produce a bit more front bias. I know I do not want to end up with too much rear bias, but think I may benefit from a little more bite from the rear brakes. I can tell I currently have too much front bias.

what I am realizing is you can make a lot of compromises with stock brakes or questionable 'upgrades' as I have done. I am becoming convinced to get a real solution at this point it requires a full 'system upgrade'. to ensure all the components are compatible and working in harmony as designed. for me the 930 setup is my preferred solution. if I decide to upgrade and when I can afford it.

thanks again for all the ideas, experiences, and considerations.

g-50cab

and like Ed - I upgraded (on the 1987 Cabriolet) to 993 Calipers on Wilwood rotors in the front - 993 calipers in the rear that were widened (throats) with 930 rear rotors.

First thing I did on this car (the 1974 Wide Body) is upgraded to 993 front calipers (but went with Steve Weiners's machined down brembo rotor and hat in the front) and 965 calipers over 930 rotors in the rear.

They were cheaper than a 930 set up, plenty of pad selection... I am way over braked at this point.

MUSSBERGER

Nice. Pads and rotors last a long time though^^^^^^^^^^^^^

911tracker85

I think the mantra "too much is never enough" apples to brakes.

I have had several discussions with Steve Weiner. I understand there may be some options less expensive than 930 kit, but I am leaning toward retaining the ability to use my fuchs. but not sure I can really afford any major upgrade this year, thus a full rebuild with some tweaks for next season.

jsabatini

No worries at all. I could not agree more regarding brakes being one of the most important issues at the track.

Just ordered PF 97's, Motul, and new rotors. Now for some lessons on how to get the front dust caps off. Have seen the 2" muffler clamp picture but what do you do once you put the muffler clamp on, use a pry bar against the rotor?

Thanks again!