Rebuild or Buy Low Mileage Engine?
06-12-2001, 01:44 PM
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Rebuild or Buy Low Mileage Engine?
I've had a string of bad luck with my car, which has caused me to put quite a bit more money into it than I ever imagined. After an airbox explosion and a wiring harness fire, the car is now back together, however it's smoking quite a bit.
I'm quite sure that it needs a top-end rebuild, which starts at $3K. Based on my history with this car, I'm sure they'll find more to do, and I'm simply not it a position to put another $5-$8K into it.
On occasion, I see very low mileage 3.0L engines for sale, typically in the $3K-$4K price range. I figure that I could at least get $2K for my engine, therefore I'm calculating that a "new" engine would run me only $2K. My fear however is buying someone elses problems.
If I can find an engine with records and low mileage, is this a viable way to go, or should I pursue rebuilding mine? I'm not interested in making a race engine, I just need a reliable stock engine for a daily driver.
Thanks!!
RBC '78 911SC ROW
I'm quite sure that it needs a top-end rebuild, which starts at $3K. Based on my history with this car, I'm sure they'll find more to do, and I'm simply not it a position to put another $5-$8K into it.
On occasion, I see very low mileage 3.0L engines for sale, typically in the $3K-$4K price range. I figure that I could at least get $2K for my engine, therefore I'm calculating that a "new" engine would run me only $2K. My fear however is buying someone elses problems.
If I can find an engine with records and low mileage, is this a viable way to go, or should I pursue rebuilding mine? I'm not interested in making a race engine, I just need a reliable stock engine for a daily driver.
Thanks!!
RBC '78 911SC ROW
06-12-2001, 07:41 PM
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Instructor
Another alternative is to investigate buying a reconditioned/exchange short block from a reputable Porsche engine builder. There are a few outfits who advertise in Pano and Excellence that offer this service. Ask around and see who can be trusted. I just can't see buying any "old" motor you might find. What if it ends up being worse than what you just pulled out?
Failing the exchange route, I'd opt for the d-i-y rebuild project. Arm yourself with the tools, parts, and manuals and go for it. At least when it's done you will know who to blame ;-)
Failing the exchange route, I'd opt for the d-i-y rebuild project. Arm yourself with the tools, parts, and manuals and go for it. At least when it's done you will know who to blame ;-)
06-12-2001, 10:00 PM
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Sounds like you may have a little more discovery to do before you sign up for a valve job.
If you have a trusted mechanic to work on your engine, you as the owner set the parameters of what work you want done. You go for a valve job, if everything needs work and replacement, OK, it's around $3K. The mechanic comes back and says "You know, while the engine is out you really ought to do this and that". You might note it down, and save it for later. However, some things you might go ahead and do: replace the oil pressure switch if it's leaking oil, replace the oil thermostat gasket if it's leaking oil, replace the crankcase hose if it's old and oil soaked or hard...the theme here is replacing gaskets and/or hoses that are leaking oil. Not time consuming or expensive to do once the engine is out. Another item to replace is the transmission shaft seal. It helps keep oil off the clutch.
Dropping a 911 engine to work on is not difficult, nor terribly time consuming, especially for those who do it for a living. It sounds daunting, and must be difficult and expensive to do, but it's not. Heck, once you disconnect the umbilicals (oil, gas, electrical), the shift coupler, and the rear axles there's only 4 bolts holding it in! So you pay for the labor later on to take care of those things you previously noted, and your cashflow is thankful for the planning.
All that said, I'd agree with what the others posted, you're probably better off making your engine better, unless it has some known flaws that would make another, possibly unknown, engine attractive.
OK, enough rambling...
[ 06-12-2001: Message edited by: Bill Gregory ]
If you have a trusted mechanic to work on your engine, you as the owner set the parameters of what work you want done. You go for a valve job, if everything needs work and replacement, OK, it's around $3K. The mechanic comes back and says "You know, while the engine is out you really ought to do this and that". You might note it down, and save it for later. However, some things you might go ahead and do: replace the oil pressure switch if it's leaking oil, replace the oil thermostat gasket if it's leaking oil, replace the crankcase hose if it's old and oil soaked or hard...the theme here is replacing gaskets and/or hoses that are leaking oil. Not time consuming or expensive to do once the engine is out. Another item to replace is the transmission shaft seal. It helps keep oil off the clutch.
Dropping a 911 engine to work on is not difficult, nor terribly time consuming, especially for those who do it for a living. It sounds daunting, and must be difficult and expensive to do, but it's not. Heck, once you disconnect the umbilicals (oil, gas, electrical), the shift coupler, and the rear axles there's only 4 bolts holding it in! So you pay for the labor later on to take care of those things you previously noted, and your cashflow is thankful for the planning.
All that said, I'd agree with what the others posted, you're probably better off making your engine better, unless it has some known flaws that would make another, possibly unknown, engine attractive.
OK, enough rambling...
[ 06-12-2001: Message edited by: Bill Gregory ]
06-13-2001, 01:09 PM
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Something I have started to do lately with some sucess is buying and parting out salvage cars. Sounds scary at first, but if you look around you can actually find some decent cars.
You need to have enough space and time to tackle the problem, and it helps if you have friends interested in some of the parts.
I recently picked up a 1988 fire car, fire in front end only, with a rebuilt motor (3.2l) for $8K. I have pulled to motor and tansmission for my race car, the interior for my 1970 911T, and am talking to my friends into buying a crashed car, of similar era and moving parts intot his one so we take two cars and build one for them.
All that said, my point is often you will pay almost as much for a used motor as a whole car, and if you have the time and ability, you may be able to get more needed stuff as spares, and sell off some of the parts to cover your costs. something to consider.....
You need to have enough space and time to tackle the problem, and it helps if you have friends interested in some of the parts.
I recently picked up a 1988 fire car, fire in front end only, with a rebuilt motor (3.2l) for $8K. I have pulled to motor and tansmission for my race car, the interior for my 1970 911T, and am talking to my friends into buying a crashed car, of similar era and moving parts intot his one so we take two cars and build one for them.
All that said, my point is often you will pay almost as much for a used motor as a whole car, and if you have the time and ability, you may be able to get more needed stuff as spares, and sell off some of the parts to cover your costs. something to consider.....
