CV joint service
09-26-2010, 07:21 PM
#17
I haddah Google dat
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I've gone through CV service enough to know that you need a box of latex gloves, a roll of paper towels, one cartridge of grease per axle (two CVs), and you pretty much want to service the axle while it's clamped in a bench vise. It's messy but not that bad. I've done this lots of times for my 911s and helped numerous people on theirs.
09-26-2010, 08:01 PM
#18
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Yeah, but truthfully, going through a motor is a whole lot more fun to me. This is just a messy job, and at this point in life, i'd rather bolt new bits in! If you are replacing CV's and boots like I was, it is not that much more to buy assemblies. Servicing good joints is another matter.
09-26-2010, 11:24 PM
#19
I haddah Google dat
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Now I'm wondering when I'm going to be too old to want to dive in on stuff. I changed out a steering column on my dad's El Camino and changed the oil on their Geo Tracker as well this weekend.
I also found that a multipurpose cleaner that you can buy for $1 at Dollar Store, called "LA Totally Awesome" with bleach is an excellent degreaser and pre-treatment for grungy greasy clothes. I ought to buy a pair of overalls though.
I also found that a multipurpose cleaner that you can buy for $1 at Dollar Store, called "LA Totally Awesome" with bleach is an excellent degreaser and pre-treatment for grungy greasy clothes. I ought to buy a pair of overalls though.
09-26-2010, 11:32 PM
#20
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Take age, add in 100K air miles and heaven only knows how many hotels a year, throw in an engine build this past spring, and you'll also arrive at life being to short to not replace with complete axles when the CV's and boots come up for replacement. 
09-26-2010, 11:38 PM
#21
I haddah Google dat
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Point well taken. I am now 41, and I barely have time to take my dog to the groomer anymore. Ten years ago my normal work pace was like a demon possesed during the day, and had to try to lighten up in order to seem normal. I think we slow down while work speeds up.
09-27-2010, 12:40 PM
#22
RL Technical Advisor
The only time we service the existing CV's is on race cars, however they are exposed to a whole different level of stresses and we use different greases (Neo or Krytox) for that reason.
Street cars get clamps on both ends of the boots and they should last 30K before needing any work if one uses good grease (Swepco #101).
09-27-2010, 04:16 PM
#24
Parts Specialist
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You are a wise man, Mr. Hughes,...
The only time we service the existing CV's is on race cars, however they are exposed to a whole different level of stresses and we use different greases (Neo or Krytox) for that reason.
Street cars get clamps on both ends of the boots and they should last 30K before needing any work if one uses good grease (Swepco #101).
The only time we service the existing CV's is on race cars, however they are exposed to a whole different level of stresses and we use different greases (Neo or Krytox) for that reason.
Street cars get clamps on both ends of the boots and they should last 30K before needing any work if one uses good grease (Swepco #101).
09-29-2010, 05:20 PM
#29
I haddah Google dat
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It looks like Krytox is a DuPont brand. I'm wondering now if I ought to take the left side back out and clean my CVs and flange cups, and fill them with Krytox.
http://www2.dupont.com/Lubricants/en.../H-58505-1.pdf
And do the pre-assembled axle assemblies come with addtional grease to fill the cups before installation? If so, what brand of grease is included? Thanks.
http://www2.dupont.com/Lubricants/en.../H-58505-1.pdf
And do the pre-assembled axle assemblies come with addtional grease to fill the cups before installation? If so, what brand of grease is included? Thanks.
09-29-2010, 10:36 PM
#30
RL Technical Advisor
Krytox, while an amazing product, carries some caveats you should be aware of.
First, its VERY expensive. I only use it for highly stressed parts on race cars that I know will not last a 24 hr race.
Second, Krytox requires special solvents to clean up and those too, are quite spendy.
Third, its toxic as hell and you don't want to inhale ANY fumes nor get that stuff on your skin if you expect to live a long, healthy life. I use a set of neoprene gloves each time I service everything.
If you have the budget and are willing to take each and every precaution when handling this stuff, I say go for it as it outlasts everything. If not, then Neo works very well, too.
Street use does NOT stress these parts at all so Swepco #101 works fine for the majority of people. The key is keeping the grease inside the CV and that means paying close attention to the boots.
It doesn't matter what grease you use if the boots become cracked and allow the lubricant to get flung out.
First, its VERY expensive. I only use it for highly stressed parts on race cars that I know will not last a 24 hr race.
Second, Krytox requires special solvents to clean up and those too, are quite spendy.
Third, its toxic as hell and you don't want to inhale ANY fumes nor get that stuff on your skin if you expect to live a long, healthy life. I use a set of neoprene gloves each time I service everything.
If you have the budget and are willing to take each and every precaution when handling this stuff, I say go for it as it outlasts everything. If not, then Neo works very well, too.
Street use does NOT stress these parts at all so Swepco #101 works fine for the majority of people. The key is keeping the grease inside the CV and that means paying close attention to the boots.
It doesn't matter what grease you use if the boots become cracked and allow the lubricant to get flung out.
Last edited by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems; 09-30-2010 at 03:18 AM.