CV joint service
#1
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
CV joint service
I did my semi-annual CV joint service, and thought I'd post some questions I had, and some things I observed.
Grease:
I used Valvoline Super Syn grease last time, but this time the grease in my grease gun from earlier this year looked hard and pasty. So I switched a new cartridge of Swepco 101 Moly that I had lying around. We'll see in a year to two how it holds up. Grease still in the gun should never turn hard and pasty. Which grease do you guys use? I had Mobil 1 grease actually turn into liquid oil while in the gun.
CV Boot Clamps:
I usually leave off the small end clamps on the outer cv joint to prevent the boot from tearing, but I noticed without a doubt that the side without the clamp had less grease in it, and the grease was not as clean. So, this year I put clamps on all 4 small ends of the boots. I guess I should keep a supply of fresh CV boots on hand. The problem is that once you notice a torn boot, the CV joint is usually a goner. If I leave the boot off, contamination of the grease makes the CV joint wear out, but that takes longer to happen.
What do you guys do?
Wear:
This is weird. The right side looked very clean, no pitting, and no wear that you could palpate on the *****, inner or outer races, and the cages looked good on the inner and outer CV joints.
On the left side, both inner and outer joints were badly pitted. There was significant wearing and one pitting spot on the outer CV joint race, and the cages were dimpled. What could cause this? Maybe I forgot to replace the grease last time and pushed the grease too far? Maybe the car is weight jacked, or the car needs alignment and is slightly crabbing down the road, and the left side axle does more work? I dunno, but I am perplexed.
Solvent/ grease removal:
I found it to be very fast and easy to wipe everything with paper towels, then a wash with Diesel. Dump diesel into the disposal container, and a bath of Purple Power. Dilute with cold water, and then rinse off Purple Power. A final wash with very very hot water and Dawn dish soap. Thorough rinse, and final cleaning with Brakleen. Let air dry, and you have clean parts.
Grease:
I used Valvoline Super Syn grease last time, but this time the grease in my grease gun from earlier this year looked hard and pasty. So I switched a new cartridge of Swepco 101 Moly that I had lying around. We'll see in a year to two how it holds up. Grease still in the gun should never turn hard and pasty. Which grease do you guys use? I had Mobil 1 grease actually turn into liquid oil while in the gun.
CV Boot Clamps:
I usually leave off the small end clamps on the outer cv joint to prevent the boot from tearing, but I noticed without a doubt that the side without the clamp had less grease in it, and the grease was not as clean. So, this year I put clamps on all 4 small ends of the boots. I guess I should keep a supply of fresh CV boots on hand. The problem is that once you notice a torn boot, the CV joint is usually a goner. If I leave the boot off, contamination of the grease makes the CV joint wear out, but that takes longer to happen.
What do you guys do?
Wear:
This is weird. The right side looked very clean, no pitting, and no wear that you could palpate on the *****, inner or outer races, and the cages looked good on the inner and outer CV joints.
On the left side, both inner and outer joints were badly pitted. There was significant wearing and one pitting spot on the outer CV joint race, and the cages were dimpled. What could cause this? Maybe I forgot to replace the grease last time and pushed the grease too far? Maybe the car is weight jacked, or the car needs alignment and is slightly crabbing down the road, and the left side axle does more work? I dunno, but I am perplexed.
Solvent/ grease removal:
I found it to be very fast and easy to wipe everything with paper towels, then a wash with Diesel. Dump diesel into the disposal container, and a bath of Purple Power. Dilute with cold water, and then rinse off Purple Power. A final wash with very very hot water and Dawn dish soap. Thorough rinse, and final cleaning with Brakleen. Let air dry, and you have clean parts.
#2
Race Car
I had a track car under my care for a while. It was built by somebody unknown to me but it had these boots:http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1472
A little pricey, but they lasted for years, and I was replacing boots on other track cars(lowered) often.
There may be some opinions amongst the gurus here - maybe theye will chime in.
Good info rusnak.
A little pricey, but they lasted for years, and I was replacing boots on other track cars(lowered) often.
There may be some opinions amongst the gurus here - maybe theye will chime in.
Good info rusnak.
#3
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes, those look like the ones I bought a few years ago from my friend Gabe in San Luis Obispo. He stopped carrying them.
If they have the solid metal plate rather than the pressed steel, then I do want to buy them. The rubber boots are really thick, and sort of hard to push onto the axle.
If they have the solid metal plate rather than the pressed steel, then I do want to buy them. The rubber boots are really thick, and sort of hard to push onto the axle.
#4
Team Owner
Rus you should NEVER mix greases , especialy on CV joints , they can interact and break down and you can end up with destoyed CVs . I use Moly 101 .
I leave the small ends open too .. never really thought about it like you did but no problems so far ..
I always wipe off with paper towel and use "Tide HE" that blue stuff is simply amazing .. puts that orange crap for your hands to shame .. then dry completely ..
My drivers side were gone to . I just atributed it to heat from the exhaust and cat breaking down the grease . so i fixed that by removing the cat .. at least i convinced myself that is what i needed to do ...
I leave the small ends open too .. never really thought about it like you did but no problems so far ..
I always wipe off with paper towel and use "Tide HE" that blue stuff is simply amazing .. puts that orange crap for your hands to shame .. then dry completely ..
My drivers side were gone to . I just atributed it to heat from the exhaust and cat breaking down the grease . so i fixed that by removing the cat .. at least i convinced myself that is what i needed to do ...
Last edited by theiceman; 01-09-2013 at 10:13 AM.
#5
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oh YEAH...hmmm....you have a very good point!! Heat is much higher on the left side. I think the cat can easily surpass 450F.
I should have been more clear. I did not mix grease in the CV. I switched out the cartridges when a few test squirts into my trash can yielded pasty, almost hard grease with no sticking power at all.
And that ^^^^^ is how the inner races looked on mine too.
I should have been more clear. I did not mix grease in the CV. I switched out the cartridges when a few test squirts into my trash can yielded pasty, almost hard grease with no sticking power at all.
And that ^^^^^ is how the inner races looked on mine too.
#6
Team Owner
ah good .. i guess grease could dry out but just seams weird stil in the tube .. i am probably due to do mine again soon .. I am getting bored .. and i have lots of clothes that need throwing out ..
#7
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So Moly 101 can still let the CVs get pitted, and at least on mine, there was no difference between the inner and outer CV, so the presence or lack of an inner boot clamp makes no difference either.
Maybe we need to service the left side CVs every year. I know that McMaster sells the serrated washers by the bagful, and OSH re-arranged their bolt selection, and now offers a dizzying array of metric caphead bolts in grade 12.9. It would not be too bad to do an annual CV service, rather than semi-annual.
Maybe we need to service the left side CVs every year. I know that McMaster sells the serrated washers by the bagful, and OSH re-arranged their bolt selection, and now offers a dizzying array of metric caphead bolts in grade 12.9. It would not be too bad to do an annual CV service, rather than semi-annual.
Last edited by rusnak; 09-26-2010 at 12:07 AM. Reason: forgot difference between semi and bi-annual
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
I've usally used the Valvoline Syn. I just replaced mine and they came with grease from Lobro, so I don't know what is in there.
Considering that boots should and do last many, many, many years, I'd not go without clamps. They are in a harsh enough environment, a few inches off the road, why not take full advantage?
Considering that boots should and do last many, many, many years, I'd not go without clamps. They are in a harsh enough environment, a few inches off the road, why not take full advantage?
#10
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Q - when servicing if you find worn parts can they be bought individually?
shoot, I never service CV's before - never even thought about it... I figure my car is due
shoot, I never service CV's before - never even thought about it... I figure my car is due
#11
Team Owner
the CV was from when I bought the car .. when i replaced them I used the moly 101 .. have not had a problm but have relatively few miles for CVs.
I think they are a hundred bucks a CV or less so was no big deal in the big picture,,
I think they are a hundred bucks a CV or less so was no big deal in the big picture,,
#13
Team Owner
Ed if you want to service them yourself it is not dificult at all . it is VERY messy and you will have your car on jackstands for a litle while but you will be throwing your clothes away .
can't remember if this pick was frommy 911 or from my Audi .. but you get the idea..
can't remember if this pick was frommy 911 or from my Audi .. but you get the idea..
Last edited by theiceman; 01-09-2013 at 10:13 AM.
#14
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
hmm, what flavor is that - yummy !!
doesnt look like moly (too light colored) - I have a brother in law that is a real "backyard" (more like junkyard) mechanic. He has rebuilt many CV's and I am always impressed with the level of work he goes thru to save his "buddy's" money.. maybe I will drop mine off and tell him to do it for me
he likes beer so I know what the price is
doesnt look like moly (too light colored) - I have a brother in law that is a real "backyard" (more like junkyard) mechanic. He has rebuilt many CV's and I am always impressed with the level of work he goes thru to save his "buddy's" money.. maybe I will drop mine off and tell him to do it for me
he likes beer so I know what the price is