rusnak

Thanks sig!

I know some guys have had major trouble breaking the sender loose, so this deserves some follow up.

You're saying due to the torque needed, remove the block from the engine case, rather than counter-hold it with another wrench? Is this due to the lack of straight on access? How much torque do you estimate you needed?

Ed Hughes

The hollow brass "bolt" thru the block will not take a lot of strain, so removal of the block is wise. If you loosen the nut over the ferrule, that should be replaced too as they ate not made to seal a second time.

ZAMIRZ

I just went through this whole thing a couple hours ago. You won't be able to comfortably hold the block and get good torque on the sender with the crows foot. There is nothing to counter-hold. It's best to use the vice method, OR, swap the senders in the car, then unbolt block (after doing everything that sig said with regards to the oil lines) and use all-new aluminum washers. There is 1 on either side of the block, 1 on either side of the hollow bolt that goes through the banjo fitting on the right side of the motor and 1 on either side of the hollow bolt that goes through the banjo fitting and into the cam chain cover, accessed from below. That makes for a total of six.

Do not overtorque the hollow bolts or they will twist and break off. You just need to feel the aluminum washers crushing as you turn the wrench and you're good and torqued.

MAKE SURE THE CAR IS COMPLETELY COOL OR YOU WILL BURN YOUR HAND BADLY ON THE MUFFLER AND/OR HEAT EXCHANGER when R&Ring with the cam cover bolt.

Marlon Targa 86

Ok, that's good to know. This DIY is becoming a little more I can handle. I just might take it to the shop anyway then. Thanks for the awesome advice!

sig_a

rusnak:

Removing to vice will insure no potential of cracking engine case (highly unlikely, but why run the risk) or shearing hollow thru bolt. If you bust the sensor while clamped in vise, no big deal. As for counter hold -- not sure there is any type of tool to counter-hold the mounting block while at the same time turning the ratchet/extension/crows foot tool. There is almost no room under the block particularly if the car still has all that AC machinery in the way. Regarding how much torque it takes to break the sensor from the block --- feels something like removing the 15 mm oil drain plug. Regarding the vice method -- it may be possible to use a 24 mm open end wrench in lieu of the crows foot provided the working end of the wrench is thin enough to fit between the base of the sensor and the mounting block. I used the crows foot because I spent $50 for it at the snap~on online store. Interesting tool.

Auto_Werks 3.6

WB,
If it stayed in failure mode: You're right that it is hard to test the sender with an ohm meter, but you can test the car wiring and the gauge easily. If you connect the sender wire to ground it should be a full deflection of the gauge. You can also get some packs of cheap resistors at Radio shack to put between the wire and ground. At that point you can verify that the instrument can show the appropriate readings. Thus you limit the problem to sender, or actual oil pressure. Last time I went through this drill, the result was actual oil pressure due to a faulty relief valve.... It was, however on a 944, but the 2.5 bar max is strikingly similar. Marlon, I don't mean to start a panic. I'm sure your car is fine, it's just not something to blow off completely.

Marlon Targa 86

Well, it's actually reading all kinds of values, all over the 1 to 5 scale... very erratic. But thank you though for the warning.

sig_a

you might try this:

Lift up to disconnect the 3/8 inch diameter black plug socket/wire at the top of the sensor and wipe clean the post that it attaches to. I think if you have the engine running and lift off this plug, the gauge will pin at five or above. Cleaning the terminal sometimes helps as the post can get enough road dust on it to effect the current flow which makes it temperamental. If this doesn't work, it's likely shot. You still have the red oil light to depend on as a warning of sudden pressure loss.

Marlon Targa 86

Yeah, I was planning on cleaning the contacts first. Will let you guys know how it all goes

rusnak

Exemplary work by all. This is a very helpful thread. Marlon, thank you for asking the question. Great posts.

Marlon Targa 86

Alright, I cleaned out the contacts and no avail. When I took off the plug, the gauge pegged at 5 immediately. At this point I feel I need to replace the sender. More to follow.

Helios59

Hi Marlon,

Your problem sounds a lot like the one I developed. On this morning's drive, my oil pressure gauge needle stopped short just below 3 bar...didn't matter how high I revved, it wouldn't budge. It's like it hit a brick wall.

At warm idle, the gauge shows 2 bar. When I turn the engine off, it goes right down to 0. No wild swings. This happened once before a few months ago, but corrected itself on subsequent drives. I suspect a new sender is needed.

Car runs fine. No leaks, no smoke. Oil level sufficient. Last oil change was October 2009, 4,000 miles ago. Running Valvoline 20W 50. An oil change is on the to-do list.

I pulled the gauge and the wires seem fine, no fraying or crimping...at least where I could see. I don't have an oil pressure tester, but judging from the car's behavior I think it's fine. That needle just isn't passing 3 bar.

sig_a

[QUOTE=Helios59;7907907

On this morning's drive, my oil pressure gauge needle stopped short just below 3 bar...didn't matter how high I revved, it wouldn't budge. It's like it hit a brick wall.

--------------

Try this caveman method:

With the engine running, take a very small hammer or other similar tool and tap lightly and repeatedly the body of the sender. While at the same time your tapping lightly and rapidly, look thru the back window at the oil pressure gage. You may see the needle advance up and down beyond the range it seems stuck in. Sometimes it works, but no guarantee. The malfunction is a sign of old age.

Helios59

[QUOTE=sig_a;7908174][QUOTE=Helios59;7907907

On this morning's drive, my oil pressure gauge needle stopped short just below 3 bar...didn't matter how high I revved, it wouldn't budge. It's like it hit a brick wall.

--------------

Try this caveman method:

With the engine running, take a very small hammer or other similar tool and tap lightly and repeatedly the body of the sender. While at the same time your tapping lightly and rapidly, look thru the back window at the oil pressure gage. You may see the needle advance up and down beyond the range it seems stuck in. Sometimes it works, but no guarantee. The malfunction is a sign of old age.[/QUOTE]





It worked!

Tapped the sender, revved the engine and the needle jumped right up to 5.

Score one for the caveman!

Stuff wears out...nice to know just where the trouble lies.

Thanks!

Swede_Stock

Hi

I got a similar problem, when I turned my ignition key the oil pressure was 1bar, when I started the engine it still was 1bar. I did some ohm messurements and came to the conclusion that the sender was broken. So I tried to order a new one but it should take one week to get, so I opened my oil pressure sender and oiled everything. The problem was that electronics was stuck at 1 bar (obviously), I also knocked on the oil cylinder (that pushes the electrolic UP). Added a new electicwire and drilled a small hole in the cap AND NOW IT WORKS!!
I will try to upload a pic later

Cheers
Hans