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Bad oil pressure sender? Advice?

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Old 09-11-2010, 07:33 PM
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Marlon Targa 86
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What size crowfoot do I need to undo this sucker?


Originally Posted by rusnak
Man...I was going to post an exploded parts diagram, but this shot shows it pretty dang good.

Somone later will find this thread and go "hmmm....I need a crowsfoot wrench for that".

You might Vise-Grip the old one off once you have the new one in hand, but don't ever admit to that (j/k).
Old 09-11-2010, 07:35 PM
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whalebird
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That is a nice shot rusnak. Marlon, are you learning anything? I seem to be.
In all seriousness Marlon, try not to destroy the old one unless absolutly needed. Your new one may be faulty and you may have to reinstall the old one. This part will keep your car from starting
Old 09-11-2010, 07:36 PM
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rusnak
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Originally Posted by whalebird
That looks correct Marlon-single wire. I feel certain you can get the old one off rendering it useless(channel locks), but you want the new one in your hand (and the crows foot to install it). This is just a referance and not advice...try not to damage anything.
Yup, I was just thinking the same thing. I don't want to say one size wrench, and turn out to be wrong. But I can say that Orchard Supply Hardware has let me return unused sockets that were the wrong size.
Old 09-11-2010, 07:38 PM
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Marlon Targa 86
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I sent an email to Pelican, where I'll order the sender unit from, asking them what size I need. I think it's a 19mm. I remember reading about it on another thread.
Old 09-11-2010, 07:38 PM
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whalebird
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24mm sounds big but what do I know. Maybe a 19mm. Marlon, do you have a few wrenchs laying around you can try?
Old 09-11-2010, 07:39 PM
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ZAMIRZ
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I just changed mine. There was nothing wrong with it, but the seal was leaking. Definitely use a crow's foot, but be gentle when cracking it loose and tightening it back up. You do not want to rotate the block that the sender screws into, otherwise it's possible to break the seals on that and then you'll have to take it off to reseal it too, which is what happened to me.
Old 09-11-2010, 07:40 PM
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Marlon Targa 86
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Originally Posted by whalebird
Marlon, are you learning anything?
YES! I'm learning a ton. I am gonna check the grounds first, see if that fixes it. But I have a suspicion it's the sender.
Old 09-11-2010, 07:49 PM
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rusnak
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The hex shape is pretty large. It's bigger than 19mm. I would not be surprised if it turned out to be 22 or 24mm.
Old 09-11-2010, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Marlon Targa 86
YES! I'm learning a ton. I am gonna check the grounds first, see if that fixes it. But I have a suspicion it's the sender.
Me too. I don't like throwing parts at a problem without a fair diagnosis. It's hard to do in this case. If it were in failure mode, I would probably tap on the sender(gently)with a screwdriver handle while watching the gauge thru the rear window, or look for implausible data with an ohm meter.
Old 09-11-2010, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rusnak
The hex shape is pretty large. It's bigger than 19mm. I would not be surprised if it turned out to be 22 or 24mm.
try a 13/16.
Old 09-11-2010, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by whalebird
Me too. I don't like throwing parts at a problem without a fair diagnosis. It's hard to do in this case. If it were in failure mode, I would probably tap on the sender(gently)with a screwdriver handle while watching the gauge thru the rear window, or look for implausible data with an ohm meter.
That's a great tip! Raise the idle to maybe 2k, then test.

Edit: I'd better add: remove the ac belt, and stay away from the fan!!
Old 09-11-2010, 08:20 PM
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Thanks for the edit rusnak. I was half a mile home and turned around to post this:
DON'T CHOP YOUR HANDS OFF.
Old 09-11-2010, 08:56 PM
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It is bigger than a 19....measure it with a caliper to be sure.
Old 09-13-2010, 07:09 PM
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Pelican got back to me saying "it measures at 24mm".
Old 09-13-2010, 10:13 PM
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For removal disconnect oil line fitting from sensor AKA sender. It is best to "progressively" loosen all fittings on all lines from the banjo nut located at valve cover somewhere near cylinder 4--this includes the small diameter metal line teeing down to the cam chain cover where it runs off the main line. In other words you may not have to completely disconnect all lines, so just loosen enough to build slack into oil line circuit. Then remove bolt that passes thru square base block to engine case. Once square base block with attached pressure sensor is removed, move it to a vice. Place block into vice with exposed 24 mm nut above vice jaws. Then use 24 mm crows foot to remove sensor/sender from block. This is easier than using crows foot to remove sensor or sender while attached to engine. But even in the vice it will take a strong effort to break sender from block -- more than you expect. Use a 3/8 inch ratchet and extension to crows foot. No AC compressor and bracket is a big help. Replace with all new copper/metal washers. Reassemble oil line circuit the same "progressive" [tighten each oil line fitting a few threads at a time} way to insure no leaks. Make sure flair end of metal oil lines seat correctly when retightening oil lines to avoid leaks -- and don't over tighten. It may also be a good time to replace the main metal-to-rubber-to-metal oil line while you're at it. And make sure you don't reassemble with a kink in rubber to metal main line at rubber to metal joint. Align rubber transition piece on straight plane to metal line at both ends. I've done this while in the car and in the vice. The vice method is better.

Last edited by sig_a; 09-13-2010 at 10:57 PM. Reason: +++---


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