Bad oil pressure sender? Advice?
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
What size crowfoot do I need to undo this sucker?
Man...I was going to post an exploded parts diagram, but this shot shows it pretty dang good.
Somone later will find this thread and go "hmmm....I need a crowsfoot wrench for that".
You might Vise-Grip the old one off once you have the new one in hand, but don't ever admit to that (j/k).
Somone later will find this thread and go "hmmm....I need a crowsfoot wrench for that".
You might Vise-Grip the old one off once you have the new one in hand, but don't ever admit to that (j/k).
#17
Race Car
That is a nice shot rusnak. Marlon, are you learning anything? I seem to be.
In all seriousness Marlon, try not to destroy the old one unless absolutly needed. Your new one may be faulty and you may have to reinstall the old one. This part will keep your car from starting
In all seriousness Marlon, try not to destroy the old one unless absolutly needed. Your new one may be faulty and you may have to reinstall the old one. This part will keep your car from starting
#18
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Yup, I was just thinking the same thing. I don't want to say one size wrench, and turn out to be wrong. But I can say that Orchard Supply Hardware has let me return unused sockets that were the wrong size.
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
I sent an email to Pelican, where I'll order the sender unit from, asking them what size I need. I think it's a 19mm. I remember reading about it on another thread.
#21
I just changed mine. There was nothing wrong with it, but the seal was leaking. Definitely use a crow's foot, but be gentle when cracking it loose and tightening it back up. You do not want to rotate the block that the sender screws into, otherwise it's possible to break the seals on that and then you'll have to take it off to reseal it too, which is what happened to me.
#22
Racer
Thread Starter
#24
Race Car
Me too. I don't like throwing parts at a problem without a fair diagnosis. It's hard to do in this case. If it were in failure mode, I would probably tap on the sender(gently)with a screwdriver handle while watching the gauge thru the rear window, or look for implausible data with an ohm meter.
#25
Race Car
#26
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Me too. I don't like throwing parts at a problem without a fair diagnosis. It's hard to do in this case. If it were in failure mode, I would probably tap on the sender(gently)with a screwdriver handle while watching the gauge thru the rear window, or look for implausible data with an ohm meter.
Edit: I'd better add: remove the ac belt, and stay away from the fan!!
#30
For removal disconnect oil line fitting from sensor AKA sender. It is best to "progressively" loosen all fittings on all lines from the banjo nut located at valve cover somewhere near cylinder 4--this includes the small diameter metal line teeing down to the cam chain cover where it runs off the main line. In other words you may not have to completely disconnect all lines, so just loosen enough to build slack into oil line circuit. Then remove bolt that passes thru square base block to engine case. Once square base block with attached pressure sensor is removed, move it to a vice. Place block into vice with exposed 24 mm nut above vice jaws. Then use 24 mm crows foot to remove sensor/sender from block. This is easier than using crows foot to remove sensor or sender while attached to engine. But even in the vice it will take a strong effort to break sender from block -- more than you expect. Use a 3/8 inch ratchet and extension to crows foot. No AC compressor and bracket is a big help. Replace with all new copper/metal washers. Reassemble oil line circuit the same "progressive" [tighten each oil line fitting a few threads at a time} way to insure no leaks. Make sure flair end of metal oil lines seat correctly when retightening oil lines to avoid leaks -- and don't over tighten. It may also be a good time to replace the main metal-to-rubber-to-metal oil line while you're at it. And make sure you don't reassemble with a kink in rubber to metal main line at rubber to metal joint. Align rubber transition piece on straight plane to metal line at both ends. I've done this while in the car and in the vice. The vice method is better.
Last edited by sig_a; 09-13-2010 at 10:57 PM. Reason: +++---