Post-valve adjustment advice
#1
Post-valve adjustment advice
I recently tackled adjusting the valves on my 3.2 '86 911. I followed the steps of Wayne and others and took my time. I found each of the valves tight, both intake and exhaust. I reset using the appropriate special feeler gauge tightening the adjustment screw until tight but not so tight that I could not wiggle the feeler blade out. In fact, I adjusted all the valves without braking any feeler strips.
The result:
The engine starts and runs normally.
I have more valve tapping noise than before.
I use less oil (slightly).
I was warned by a good local tech to be concerned when the engine sounds like a sewing machine. My engine certainly sounds more like a sewing machine now than before my amateur adjustment. Is this really worth worrying about? Can I recheck the valves without new gaskets, lock nuts, etc? Can I just live with this?
Any advice is much appreciated.
The result:
The engine starts and runs normally.
I have more valve tapping noise than before.
I use less oil (slightly).
I was warned by a good local tech to be concerned when the engine sounds like a sewing machine. My engine certainly sounds more like a sewing machine now than before my amateur adjustment. Is this really worth worrying about? Can I recheck the valves without new gaskets, lock nuts, etc? Can I just live with this?
Any advice is much appreciated.
#2
From a new 911 owner: From the way I used to do it on flat air-cooled, when I had a VW, 30 plus years ago, it sounds like you did it right. I have not yet done the valves in the 911, (87 3.2 Carrera) but I have always heard you are better off with a slightly bigger gap ( a little tapping or singing ) than a tighter one, because of the possibility in an "interfering engine" of burning or breaking a valve. I am glad you asked, because I have a new valve adjustment kit, and am eager to use it. I was always been taught that if the gap is so tight that you break a feeler, it's probably too tight. I think it should slide with slight interferance, where you can actually feel the gauge slide against both components, but not feel stuck.
I also realize that to get into the gap on our engines, an angle needs to be negotiated. I understand all about the rotation to TDC on each cylider and all that, but the "feel" is something I would love to hear some comments about!
Regards,
Tim
I also realize that to get into the gap on our engines, an angle needs to be negotiated. I understand all about the rotation to TDC on each cylider and all that, but the "feel" is something I would love to hear some comments about!
Regards,
Tim
#3
I've read alot about this in the past. to simplify, tight valves = performance (bordering on dangerous) and loose = economy and clacking sounds. I seems to be better to be a little on the loose side. I've do my valves on 2 air-cooled engines; My Beetle will forever go click, but my 911 seems just right. On both of these I turn the engine on the fan pulley - (hard access to the crank-pulley). I turn slowly and always come to a stop comming from the same direction, I noticed there is some play and figured this way it will be uniform. How about you guys?
TIM - take your time, do your valves slow and right, just like a woman...(sorry, couldn't resist!) I suppose your 3.2 has similar valve covers as my 2.7, this might inspire you :
I brushed the aluminum clean (drill attachment) and painted the letters with caliper paint applied with toothpick! bad photo, looks incredible
I would also like to know "When can you tell you did a bad job on the valves & if it's worth doing over?"
TIM - take your time, do your valves slow and right, just like a woman...(sorry, couldn't resist!) I suppose your 3.2 has similar valve covers as my 2.7, this might inspire you :
I brushed the aluminum clean (drill attachment) and painted the letters with caliper paint applied with toothpick! bad photo, looks incredible
I would also like to know "When can you tell you did a bad job on the valves & if it's worth doing over?"