Bedding New Brake Pads
08-27-2010, 11:41 AM
#1
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bedding New Brake Pads
Well I have read several posts and most are 3-5 years old and dont lay out the process for bedding. I have my own ideas, and my service guy...
but my Q is:
how do YOU bed new pads? - write out the process. (I just installed Textar's, have not got out of the garage yet)
For me (so those who dont want to type.. you can just agree of add pointers)
35-10 about 7-8 times in fairly quick pace, moderate pressure... then drive a few minutes (5) and do 60-10 about 5 times, a little more pressure... regular driving, then 100-50 about 3 times, hitting them pretty good,...
call em done
but my Q is:
how do YOU bed new pads? - write out the process. (I just installed Textar's, have not got out of the garage yet)
For me (so those who dont want to type.. you can just agree of add pointers)
35-10 about 7-8 times in fairly quick pace, moderate pressure... then drive a few minutes (5) and do 60-10 about 5 times, a little more pressure... regular driving, then 100-50 about 3 times, hitting them pretty good,...
call em done
08-27-2010, 01:09 PM
#2
Racer
Well I just did mine as well - with PBR - What I do is as follows:
1- drive fairly slow (30 kph) light pressure just to see if all is working before hitting the road
2- bring car up to 60 kph (40mph) and using moderate pressure slow to a crawl - repeat 4 or so times
3- bring up to say 100 - 110 kph (60-70 mph) then with moderate pressure slow to a crawl - 4 or so times
4- at around 100 kph slow with fairly heavy pressure slow to a crawl only a ocuple of times
5- drive for 5 minutes or so without braking to cool things
I think getting on the brakes hard repeatedly (6 or more times ) can cause to much heat and cause vibrations in brake disc
I find this is what works for me - results may vary ....
Brad
1- drive fairly slow (30 kph) light pressure just to see if all is working before hitting the road
2- bring car up to 60 kph (40mph) and using moderate pressure slow to a crawl - repeat 4 or so times
3- bring up to say 100 - 110 kph (60-70 mph) then with moderate pressure slow to a crawl - 4 or so times
4- at around 100 kph slow with fairly heavy pressure slow to a crawl only a ocuple of times
5- drive for 5 minutes or so without braking to cool things
I think getting on the brakes hard repeatedly (6 or more times ) can cause to much heat and cause vibrations in brake disc
I find this is what works for me - results may vary ....
Brad
)
08-27-2010, 04:52 PM
#4
Drifting
Here's pagids
Brake Pad Bedding Procedure
PLEASE NOTE:
IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT THE BEDDING IN PROCEDURES ARE BEING DONE ONLY ON A RACE TRACK. PAGID RACING MATERIAL IS NOT LEGAL FOR STREET USE.
Why bedding?
* To transfer a layer of friction material onto the brake disc faces to achieve maximum performance.
* To stabilize compressible materials to avoid a spongy pedal.
* To boil off volatile elements in the friction compound in order to have the initial ‘green’ fading during bedding and not during the race.
* To align the pad surface with the brake disc surface to have full contact.
If pads do not get bedded properly and / or used too hard right out of the box will likely lead to pad glazing. Pad glazing is a condition where the resins in the pad crystallize on both, the pad friction surface and the brake disc surface, resulting in poor stopping performance, brake judder and vibrations.
Also rapidly escaping volatile elements and moisture from the resin would seek an immediate escape route out of the friction compound, creating small fissures that would lead shortly to cracking and chunking.
1.) BASIC BEDDING IN
To initiate some heat in the brake discs and pads.
* 4 to 6 stops with medium brake pressure from approximately 150 km/h (90 MPH) to approximately 80 km/h (50 MPH).
* Distance between each brake stop approximately 300 - 400 meters (300 to 400 yards).
* The pads should not reach temperatures above 400° Centigrade (550° Fahrenheit).
* No dragging!
* Blocking of the air ducts might be helpful to reach appropriate temperatures quicker.
2.) IMMEDIATELY AFTER BASIC BEDDING IN AT HIGH SPEED
Simulating race conditions
* One stop with medium to heavy brake pressure, without allowing brakes to lock from approximately 180 km/h (110 MPH) to approximately 80 km/h (50 MPH).
* No dragging!
* Recovery stops with light brake pressure 3 to 4 times. (Cleaning procedure)
* Repeat the high-speed stops including recovery stops 2 to 3 times.
* Allow a cool-off distance of approximately 500 m (500 yards) between high-speed stops.
BRAKE DISCS
If possible, pads should be bedded on used but NOT worn out brake discs.
Pagid brake pad material can be used either on solid, grooved or cross-drilled discs.
For disc bedding please refer to the disc manufacturers’ own instruction.
MOUNTING NEW PADS ON USED DISCS
Edges of pad surface should be filed roughly to 45 degrees to ensure that the pad carries fully and evenly and is not touching the edge of the disc.
Do not use discs, which are pre-bedded, or have been used with friction material other than PAGID.
Brake Pad Bedding Procedure
PLEASE NOTE:
IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT THE BEDDING IN PROCEDURES ARE BEING DONE ONLY ON A RACE TRACK. PAGID RACING MATERIAL IS NOT LEGAL FOR STREET USE.
Why bedding?
* To transfer a layer of friction material onto the brake disc faces to achieve maximum performance.
* To stabilize compressible materials to avoid a spongy pedal.
* To boil off volatile elements in the friction compound in order to have the initial ‘green’ fading during bedding and not during the race.
* To align the pad surface with the brake disc surface to have full contact.
If pads do not get bedded properly and / or used too hard right out of the box will likely lead to pad glazing. Pad glazing is a condition where the resins in the pad crystallize on both, the pad friction surface and the brake disc surface, resulting in poor stopping performance, brake judder and vibrations.
Also rapidly escaping volatile elements and moisture from the resin would seek an immediate escape route out of the friction compound, creating small fissures that would lead shortly to cracking and chunking.
1.) BASIC BEDDING IN
To initiate some heat in the brake discs and pads.
* 4 to 6 stops with medium brake pressure from approximately 150 km/h (90 MPH) to approximately 80 km/h (50 MPH).
* Distance between each brake stop approximately 300 - 400 meters (300 to 400 yards).
* The pads should not reach temperatures above 400° Centigrade (550° Fahrenheit).
* No dragging!
* Blocking of the air ducts might be helpful to reach appropriate temperatures quicker.
2.) IMMEDIATELY AFTER BASIC BEDDING IN AT HIGH SPEED
Simulating race conditions
* One stop with medium to heavy brake pressure, without allowing brakes to lock from approximately 180 km/h (110 MPH) to approximately 80 km/h (50 MPH).
* No dragging!
* Recovery stops with light brake pressure 3 to 4 times. (Cleaning procedure)
* Repeat the high-speed stops including recovery stops 2 to 3 times.
* Allow a cool-off distance of approximately 500 m (500 yards) between high-speed stops.
BRAKE DISCS
If possible, pads should be bedded on used but NOT worn out brake discs.
Pagid brake pad material can be used either on solid, grooved or cross-drilled discs.
For disc bedding please refer to the disc manufacturers’ own instruction.
MOUNTING NEW PADS ON USED DISCS
Edges of pad surface should be filed roughly to 45 degrees to ensure that the pad carries fully and evenly and is not touching the edge of the disc.
Do not use discs, which are pre-bedded, or have been used with friction material other than PAGID.
08-27-2010, 08:05 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
You certainly don't want to be gitting them hard right off the batt!!!!!!!!!! Decent info provided....a slow work in is in order, as glazing is for real....
Best,
Doyle
Best,
Doyle
