whalebird

Good advice. The motor comes out sooo easy and it's a great opportunity to get things right. I second the clutch/main seals. get all the small stuff like clutch guide tube, pilot bearing, release shaft/bearings - even if you reuse the clutch pressure plate/disc. If you go with all new clutch, good time for a lightweight flywheel!!

Adams

Hey guys, making my list, checking it twice. Am getting a quote to replace the clutch, but that's the one thing that makes me wonder if it I'm going overboard.

My car has 41k miles, and felt fine to me. I'll pose the question to the techs, but I think we can guess the answer. It is - far as the records and previous owner say - the original clutch.

So, to the jury...

To clutch or not to clutch?

rusnak

41K?!? The engine ain't even broken in yet. I'd leave it alone.

You are being prudent, but you have to realize that these cars are durable if they're driven.

Ed Hughes

Miles aren't as important as what it went thru in that time period. But, if the car was treated well, should be a non-issue.

Adams

Well, ordered the heck out of some gaskets, o-rings, plugs, things. Decided to forgo the clutch, rear main seal. Don't hex me and say I'll regret it!

Motor is on a bench. The oil switch had really made a mess, so had the cam lines (new replacements ready to go). Decided to do some cleaning up while it was out.

Couple before shots here.

Adams

And some after shots. Still desperately need to get new decals, but this is a good start.

Ed Hughes

I'd take the sheetmetal off for better access.

Did you pull the oil cooler for reseal, and preferably clean and test too? Are you going to send the injectors out for cleaning and testing?

User 4221

What products/methods did you use to get such a great result? Especially on the fan!

dshepp806

Check the manufacture dates on the flex fuel lines,..I changed mine out on the last drop. (found to be original 1989 (long overdue) ..caught all seals or O-rings to be had.....then again, as ED said,..you've NOT a lot of miles at all....you'd want to ID the problem areas.....but also take a cautious dose of "preventative actions" with you while she's out....injector cleaning can never hurt (again,..you're low mileadge,..BUT......)....fresh rubber lines (vacuum, etc.) I say go "****" on it,..especially the small stuff(duh?)

That engine looks quite nice, I would say,..good work, for sure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Best,

Doyle


Matter of budget, sometimes,..otherwise,..with me,..all the OLD sheeit's gotta' go..............

Ed Hughes

Miles are mostly irrelevant, time is what takes the toll. The fan will probably want some clear coat, as any polishing taking it down to bare metal will soon oxidize.

dshepp806

which clear coat is best? (save me the search, as I'll go with whatever Ed says).

Never had the urge to spend time polishing my fan,..but I've stared it down, at times, noting it's grimey (or is it patina?) look,..and considered the short term gratification of elbow grease and proper chemicals,..as the pics speak for themselves (looks good).

However, is it still the issue that (even) coating with clear coat will not completely preserve that elbow grease? What are the results are you (polishers) seeing (with Ed's suggestion of clear coat applicaton)??????

Not to detract from OP's points of interests.....of course.

Oil return lines may be a consideration should they have original O-rings,...clearly, the oil cooler O-rings would be a changeout (no question there)..many good points already mentioned, especially the stuff "up top"....

VC adjustments would be quite easier engine out.....

On a simple note,..great time to CLEAN things. However those injector cables , in example, look damned brand new!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looks to be a very clean engine.

andonandonandon..............

Best,

Doyle

Adams

Thanks for the input, as always. The Porsche tech was trying to talk me out of the oil cooler o-ring, but after the posts, I'll insist. Thanks.

Far as the methods I used, pretty straight forward:

1. Simple green and brushes of diff sizes. Painters brushes work very well. Long handles help.
2. Wire brushes on uncoated metal.
3. Scotchbrite pads on uncoated metal to take out brush marks
4. If I could get to it (such as the fan) I'd follow with NevRDull wadding.
5. Cleaned up with many rags, and paper towels since they were thin enough to get in the hard to reach areas. Use the handle of the artist brushes with a paper towel around them to get the multiple nooks.

For the fan specifically -
1. Leave the belt on. It 'holds' the fan in place while you do the blades.
2. Do all the blades in turn with Scotchbrite.
3. Then use 00 Steel wool to smooth it out.
4. Then to NevRDull to lightly polish.

For the housing - -
1. Remove the belt. You need the fan to move.
2. Use Scotchbrite with two fingers on the pad, moving it inside the housing with the blade moving as you progress.
3. Follow with 00 Steel wool.
4. Then to NevRDull.

For both, I used Duplicolor High Temp Semi Gloss Clear. I've had good success in the past with this on a variety of surfaces (not so good on magnesium). Will last far longer than leaving it unprotected. Hope this helps

Adams

I did remove the sheetmetal (you mean the tray around the engine?). Cleaned it up, reattached, looked nice.

The oil cooler was a minor debate. Him saying 'don't disturb it' and me saying, 'while you're in there...'. Opinion?

I've requested to have the injectors pulled and tested.

Thanks for weighting back in here.

Ed Hughes

It is only 3 inexpensive seals, and all of 15 minutes. The seals are a common source of leaks at some point. Do it. I'd also take it by an aircraft oil cooler shop fr cleaning and testing. Maybe $150, and it will look brand new.

rusnak

I would replace the oil cooler seals. You've spent that much time on it, this is a quick job and cheap insurance.