Need help with purchase
#1
Racer
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I test drove this tonight and liked it. This was my first 3.2 I have driven and I liked the rawness of it. The price is right on it so I am believe I am going to get a PPI.
The knowns:
88 G-50 110k in the clock.
Major service including valve adjustment done 6k ago.
New tires. Clean interior. Slight crack on the dash. No apparent rust.
Original motor with no top end re-build. AC blows ice cold and is running R-12. Evaporator recently replaced. No oil leaks.
The questionable. Multiple owners and current owner has owned the past 2 - 3 years and does not know when clutch was last replaced. I would give the paint maybe a 6 - 10 but it is still a nice looking driver. The weirdest part is the whale tail paint did not quite match up to the rest of the paint on the car. The paint on the rear quarter of the car appeared more faded compared to the front part of the car. Minimal service records.
The last major service record showed the leakdown on the cylinders in the 8% ( lowest) to 13% highest and the rest of the cylinders in-between.
What do you think should I become a Porsche member (this will be my first). Notice my join date. I have been a regular lurker since 2004.
![](http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/yumyum1667/photo-1-1.jpg)
![](http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/yumyum1667/photo-6.jpg)
![](http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/yumyum1667/photo-2-1.jpg)
The knowns:
88 G-50 110k in the clock.
Major service including valve adjustment done 6k ago.
New tires. Clean interior. Slight crack on the dash. No apparent rust.
Original motor with no top end re-build. AC blows ice cold and is running R-12. Evaporator recently replaced. No oil leaks.
The questionable. Multiple owners and current owner has owned the past 2 - 3 years and does not know when clutch was last replaced. I would give the paint maybe a 6 - 10 but it is still a nice looking driver. The weirdest part is the whale tail paint did not quite match up to the rest of the paint on the car. The paint on the rear quarter of the car appeared more faded compared to the front part of the car. Minimal service records.
The last major service record showed the leakdown on the cylinders in the 8% ( lowest) to 13% highest and the rest of the cylinders in-between.
What do you think should I become a Porsche member (this will be my first). Notice my join date. I have been a regular lurker since 2004.
![](http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/yumyum1667/photo-1-1.jpg)
![](http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/yumyum1667/photo-6.jpg)
![](http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/yumyum1667/photo-2-1.jpg)
![](http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b247/yumyum1667/photo-3.jpg)
#2
Burning Brakes
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How many other 3.2 have you checked out? From your description, mechanical and body maintenance seems to be haphazardly maintained (or even lack of) by the numerous previous owners. I would suggest you to look at other examples with near or full service records before making a decision.
Don't make a desperate decision to buy the first 3.2 you have ever driven just because you are a lurker for too long! No one is judging you except yourself.
Don't make a desperate decision to buy the first 3.2 you have ever driven just because you are a lurker for too long! No one is judging you except yourself.
#3
Team Owner
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Personally I think people buy cars for different reasons .. and justify it differently..
For me number of owners is not an issue .. for some it is .. for me it is about the PPI ..
some people say they need tonnes of records .. I don't . may be important for resale in case you are selling to those people .. and may be important to know if you are heading for a rebuild but sounds like you know it is original without rebuild anyway . For me I buy them as tinkerers and do all the maintanance stuff anyway ..
different paint ? has it been in a fender bender over the last 20 years ? probably ... but do you really care ? as long as it is straight amd drives straight .. again PPI ... and of course it is about pricepoint .. G50 cars of that era usually carry a bit of a premium anyway if you are getting a great deal and it checks out jump on in .. if it is an average deal comparer and look around ...
just my 2c .... which is worth about 1c with inflation ..
For me number of owners is not an issue .. for some it is .. for me it is about the PPI ..
some people say they need tonnes of records .. I don't . may be important for resale in case you are selling to those people .. and may be important to know if you are heading for a rebuild but sounds like you know it is original without rebuild anyway . For me I buy them as tinkerers and do all the maintanance stuff anyway ..
different paint ? has it been in a fender bender over the last 20 years ? probably ... but do you really care ? as long as it is straight amd drives straight .. again PPI ... and of course it is about pricepoint .. G50 cars of that era usually carry a bit of a premium anyway if you are getting a great deal and it checks out jump on in .. if it is an average deal comparer and look around ...
just my 2c .... which is worth about 1c with inflation ..
#4
Racer
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This is the first 3.2 I have seriously looked at. I have been window shopping for a long time. It looks like a good deal and is local which is what got me to take a harder look.
Will a PPI detect when to expect a top end rebuild and clutch without the records?
Will a PPI detect when to expect a top end rebuild and clutch without the records?
#5
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I'd get an old Porsche chassis expert to completely inspect it for accident / repaint / farming /rust history.
the tail may have been added (does it have a frt spoiler? what do the books / under-trunklid label say about options as-delivered?), the car may have been hit (or hit something... tto) way back in the day. faded paint may have been as simple as a car parked halfway into the sun under a carport for 10 yrs (red loves to fade) - or not.
the '88s had an upgraded (though still rubber-centered) clutch & can last over 100k mi (my '87s did). an expert may be able to tell if it has ever been changed by external examination. also may be able to make an educated guess on the top-end rebuild sitch.
is this THE 911 pkg you've been looking for - regardless of whether it was the 1st or 50th?
price becomes a determinent when all else is clarified.
enjoy & good luck!
the tail may have been added (does it have a frt spoiler? what do the books / under-trunklid label say about options as-delivered?), the car may have been hit (or hit something... tto) way back in the day. faded paint may have been as simple as a car parked halfway into the sun under a carport for 10 yrs (red loves to fade) - or not.
the '88s had an upgraded (though still rubber-centered) clutch & can last over 100k mi (my '87s did). an expert may be able to tell if it has ever been changed by external examination. also may be able to make an educated guess on the top-end rebuild sitch.
is this THE 911 pkg you've been looking for - regardless of whether it was the 1st or 50th?
price becomes a determinent when all else is clarified.
enjoy & good luck!
#7
Racer
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No the steering wheel is not original. The seller said that up front. I am still looking around but everything felt good about the car when I drove it. The engine felt strong, the clutch felt good, drove straight and felt tight.
Oh decisions, decisions.....
Oh decisions, decisions.....
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#8
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A PPI will not tell you when you'll need a new clutch or any engine work. What it should tell you, is whether either of these are needed now.
You say it is a "good deal", you probably should mention the $ you are talking about, and we can offer up feedback on that. If you're talking high teens, I'd not rush into anything here and expand the search.
The faded paint, as noted, probably indicates an accident repair. As Ked says, that should cue you in on paying particular attention to that. Maybe a Carfax would also, not a substitute for qualified inspection, offer a clue?
You say it is a "good deal", you probably should mention the $ you are talking about, and we can offer up feedback on that. If you're talking high teens, I'd not rush into anything here and expand the search.
The faded paint, as noted, probably indicates an accident repair. As Ked says, that should cue you in on paying particular attention to that. Maybe a Carfax would also, not a substitute for qualified inspection, offer a clue?
#9
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Asking price is $16k. I might could get it for $15k and would offer lower depending on PPI. It is by no means a garage queen but more of a driver. Yes the paint dies concern me but the Carfax was clean which still does not mean much.
#11
Drifting
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Faded paint could be frombeing left in the hot sun too long but can sometimes be brought back.
From another website.
Red paint oxidizes particularly badly because it's red. No, really:
that means it absorbs all the high-energy light at the blue end of the
spectrum and reflects the low-energy light at the red end. As the
current owner of three red cars, I've experienced a certain amount of
this.
Looks like a fair price.
John
From another website.
Red paint oxidizes particularly badly because it's red. No, really:
that means it absorbs all the high-energy light at the blue end of the
spectrum and reflects the low-energy light at the red end. As the
current owner of three red cars, I've experienced a certain amount of
this.
Looks like a fair price.
John
#12
RL Technical Advisor
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YY,
Some good advice here.
Faded red paint doesn't put me off due to how these oxidize. A thorough PPI done by competent personnel will be the deciding factor.
Experienced technicians can tell whether the clutch is or near its end of life and removing the lower valve covers to check valve guide wear gives a rough idea about whether it needs a top-end or not.
Some good advice here.
Faded red paint doesn't put me off due to how these oxidize. A thorough PPI done by competent personnel will be the deciding factor.
Experienced technicians can tell whether the clutch is or near its end of life and removing the lower valve covers to check valve guide wear gives a rough idea about whether it needs a top-end or not.
#13
I haddah Google dat
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I might expect an SC to have faded paint, especially a solid non-metallic color like red. All paint fades, and the older paint just wasn't as good as paint today. And it was not uncommon for PCNA to do partial resprays, according to the local dealer service manager here in Fresno (meaning I don't know if it's true).
#14
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I don't know why everybody wants everyone else's validation of a decision they have to make. I wish we could be of help, but I just feel that 1) Everybody has an opinion and out of the hundreds of "experts" real and imagined on these sites you'll get everyone of them vice consensus; 2) We're not near the vehicle in question in order to give you informed conclusions, based on physical inspections and test drives. Therefore anything we say or do this remotely is purely speculation; and, 3) It's your money and your happiness. Does this item satisfy both for you?
I would recommend you go and get a thorough PPI done by a reputable shop in your area, A couple of hundred now may save you thousands later. Thoroughly review the maintenance and upkeep records. Assure yourself the car has been well maintained. Make sure everything works, if something doesn't work, get estimates on its cost to repair and put that in the offer. Ask the board if there is a current owner of a like model and year that is near enough that, if you would like, can actually go out and check out the car with you. The cost of a lunch or dinner will probably be sufficient compensation for someone to take time his to come assist you. Then you can make a decision on substanative data and not a lot of conjecture or opinion, and a friend that you can ask questions and build your own base of Porsche knowledge. I'm really sorry, I must be tired and grumpy tonight, but I wouldn't want to gamble thousands of dollars on my "dream" and then find out I bought a problem, or missed out on a really great, solid car based on a bunch of generalizations and opinion. Good luck with whatever you decide.
I would recommend you go and get a thorough PPI done by a reputable shop in your area, A couple of hundred now may save you thousands later. Thoroughly review the maintenance and upkeep records. Assure yourself the car has been well maintained. Make sure everything works, if something doesn't work, get estimates on its cost to repair and put that in the offer. Ask the board if there is a current owner of a like model and year that is near enough that, if you would like, can actually go out and check out the car with you. The cost of a lunch or dinner will probably be sufficient compensation for someone to take time his to come assist you. Then you can make a decision on substanative data and not a lot of conjecture or opinion, and a friend that you can ask questions and build your own base of Porsche knowledge. I'm really sorry, I must be tired and grumpy tonight, but I wouldn't want to gamble thousands of dollars on my "dream" and then find out I bought a problem, or missed out on a really great, solid car based on a bunch of generalizations and opinion. Good luck with whatever you decide.
#15
Three Wheelin'
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buy the best in class, best you can afford....from a caring owner that has demonstrated knowledge of his car/past ownership. fewer owners the better.
steve is correct solid p.p.i by a good pro shop your best friend.
....only my 5cents...this car seems overpriced considering paint/other issues.
good luck
steve is correct solid p.p.i by a good pro shop your best friend.
....only my 5cents...this car seems overpriced considering paint/other issues.
good luck