I can't get the top nut off my fuel pump. I used a wrench on the check valve nut to counteract the force and it is now stripped. I think I may have damaged the round seat assembly that goes between the top nut and check valve nut and is connected to the fuel line. I am almost at the point of pulling that line out that line which i may have to anyway, it's only about a foot long. I got out from under the car and gave it the one finger salute and am now enjoying a cold beer. The shift bushings were a much better experience.

Any tricks?

 

Did you remove the pump from the car?

If not, I used a socket on the end nut and locked large vice grips on the banjo fitting to detach the line from the check valve.

John

 

No, it's still connected to the fuel line on the check valve side.

 

Tried that too. One more beer and off I go again. Thanks

 

well whatever you do, don't use heat.

Might be time to try a pipe wrench, the tool of last resort.

 

I got it off, put the new one in and called it a night. I couldn't tighten bolt 38 very tight (thanks for the pic rusnak), don't have the leverage.... yet. The manuel says to use the nut on the check valve (39) as leverage but can't get at it with a firm grip. I need to vise the valve in between to get it tight or grind a wrench down (wish I had a grinder..lol). This job shouldn't have been so dramatic, a couple of bolts, budda bing, and I'm not done yet. My eight year old kept coming in the garage to see if I was done so we could play soccer, lacrosse, and basketball...again. Shoulda done that instead.

 

I do have a question. When I was disconnecting the terminals on the old pump I noticed the black was connected to the positive terminal and the red to the negative. Is this correct?

 

the visual is a huge help rusnak. Thanks.
I think your on your way, and my advice is not as technical. However, be sure to clamp the rubber line coming from the tank. this will keep any eccess fuel from running down your elbows, which is something I always despised. My solution was to take a few shop rags(get a cheap bunch of the red ones from any department/hardware store) and tie the ends together around your wrists. These will catch most of the dribbles out of the pump if you have any at this point. Containing the mess is the biggest challenge when wrenching on your car.

 

oh yeah. Gas in the ear. been there, done that.

You can replace the copper washers with new ones, and probably should do that. You might be able to replace the stripped nut with a locally sourced one. Most auto parts stores carry the washers. Try to use pro-quality tools whenever possible.

 

I concur on the tools. Being a novice I am not completely set up. I was using the right tools for this job but that check valve nut is difficult to get at to counteract the torque when tightening the top nut.

I picked up some washers at my local Porsche dealer. OEM washers are smaller than the ones I took off but he gave me both and told me to choose one. Probably the same as the old was the mech's recommendation since the interior diameter is the same for both. As far as the wiring issue (red wire being connected to negative terminal and black being connected to positive terminal) the mech said put it on the same way I took it off. The red and black wires don't necessarily mean pos and neg. He has seen brown wires as well. If the wires were reversed would it burn the pump or reverse the pumping cycle? Anyone know?

 

The pump has two different sized nuts/studs for the wires IIRC. They cannot be reversed if everything is original. Maybe a 8/10mm, or 6/8, or 7/10mm. Help me out rusnak.

 

As an alternative to grinding down a wrench, flag down a SnapOn truck and buy a thin-version wrench for the valve. It will fit the hex (17mm from memory?) perfectly, and because it's a high quality wrench it will hold it secure while you tighten the cap nut.

 

Thanks Peter. I believe 17 mm is the right size. Reference book says 15mm which is not correct.

 

I have a collection of thin wrenches from the Park bicycle company. They are individual open ended "cone wrenches" and available at most well equiped bicycle stores in a variety of sizes. They come in real handy - I use them for fastening the chuck on my die-grinder as well. My snap-on guy can order them but seldom has the sizes I need, and for the periodic usage they see, them being readily available and cheap$$ from a bike shop suits me. Just a little FYI.

 

Great alternative, I didn't know about that!