Engine Oil Cooler....bs or good stuff?
06-20-2010, 02:21 PM
#16
Drifting
Performance Products (800.423.3173) sells it. There ad claims that road and bench tests have shown a 15 degree reduction in oil temp. I have not bought it but I've thought about it "for that extra margin of safety". I think it depends on your car, your climate and how you drive. It's about $225 after PCA discount.
06-20-2010, 11:11 PM
#17
Addict
Abe, your thread got me thinking of the two things I did to dramatically lower the temp on my car. You can find the story in the link. All that actually did nothing until I added the jumper under the hood. Now I have a gauge that never even gets horizontal. It is a miracle fix.
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...ght=oil+cooler
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...ght=oil+cooler
06-21-2010, 01:52 AM
#18
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Doug, that was a LOT of work you did there. One of my least favorite jobs was to add a fan to my '84 finned cooler. Twice. The first time I tried an aftermarket fan. Did not work well. Then I bought the original factory fan, horn relocation arm, brackets, and added a remote switch and a factory relay/ relay socket. I totally forgot how much I spent, but my eyes bugged out when I saw how much it was going for a few years ago. I must have done mine around 2002 or so, for much less $.
A fender mounted cooler and fan will do a great job of lowering the oil temps. In my experience, the oil temps went down about 15-20F degrees. I also pull open the heater valves just slightly so that the rear heater fan comes on without closing the valves. This pushes air through the heat exhangers and prevents heat from building up in them. This might be good for another 10F degrees or so. Rarely do I see oil temps above 220 now, when 250 was the norm before.
A fender mounted cooler and fan will do a great job of lowering the oil temps. In my experience, the oil temps went down about 15-20F degrees. I also pull open the heater valves just slightly so that the rear heater fan comes on without closing the valves. This pushes air through the heat exhangers and prevents heat from building up in them. This might be good for another 10F degrees or so. Rarely do I see oil temps above 220 now, when 250 was the norm before.
06-21-2010, 11:27 AM
#19
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I'm using the air scoop that replaces the right side parking light or in my case a black rubber piece. The scoop blows air right on the trombone cooler. Installs in 5 minutes-two screws and no cutting. Temp gauge hasn't risen above horizontal or the 9:00 position and its hot in Texas. Naturally this doesn't work well if your in "stop n go" traffic but then its $95 not $895.
BTW, I've been buying from Performance for four years and I haven't ever had an issue.
BTW, I've been buying from Performance for four years and I haven't ever had an issue.
06-21-2010, 12:28 PM
#20
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I had seen this item in the past but never heard any reports of it being effective and any potential dangers with it.
I was becoming concerned about oil/engine temps as I do more and more DE events. I installed the front oil cooler fan kit from Elephant racing this past winter. includes the fan, relay w/temp sensor, and manual override contact. it is a bit of an effort to install and I relocated my horns to the drivers side due to space, after removing the windshield washer tank.
during normal street driving and the DE at midohio in April (cool weather) my oil temps never got much over the first white line, in the past usually got higher for the same air temps and driving conditions. recently in the upper 80s here.
just finished a two day DE at Nelson Ledges. HOT, mid/upper 80s and very high humidity. after 30 min session, my temp was just barely above the second white line. (my '85 does not show actual temps.) I also installed the override switch, but find the thermostatic sensor I stuck into the oil cooler kicks on as the oil temp hits the first white line.
I had installed the bumper light/scoop a couple years ago, along with removing my right front fog light. both of those helped, but oil temps tend to now stay even lower due to the fan. it seems this combination of changes may be enough for my DE events, as we do not have sessions that exceed 30 min.
I was becoming concerned about oil/engine temps as I do more and more DE events. I installed the front oil cooler fan kit from Elephant racing this past winter. includes the fan, relay w/temp sensor, and manual override contact. it is a bit of an effort to install and I relocated my horns to the drivers side due to space, after removing the windshield washer tank.
during normal street driving and the DE at midohio in April (cool weather) my oil temps never got much over the first white line, in the past usually got higher for the same air temps and driving conditions. recently in the upper 80s here.
just finished a two day DE at Nelson Ledges. HOT, mid/upper 80s and very high humidity. after 30 min session, my temp was just barely above the second white line. (my '85 does not show actual temps.) I also installed the override switch, but find the thermostatic sensor I stuck into the oil cooler kicks on as the oil temp hits the first white line.
I had installed the bumper light/scoop a couple years ago, along with removing my right front fog light. both of those helped, but oil temps tend to now stay even lower due to the fan. it seems this combination of changes may be enough for my DE events, as we do not have sessions that exceed 30 min.
06-21-2010, 05:29 PM
#21
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I installed that same stupid cooler scoop! I had a bum front light so I bought the scoop, and quickly found that it doesn't flow any air. I bought a new light anyway, but decided to tinker with the scoop. I cut apart a Diet Coke can, and glued some guide baffles inside to force the air to flow onto the cooler. Now it sort of directs air onto the fan, which does the real work of pushing air through the oil cooler. The scoop by itself can't generate enough air flow to FORCE air through the cooler vanes, which is what you've got to do. The hotter the air, the thinner it is and you need even more air flow.
06-21-2010, 06:45 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
If that piece is hitting the gound you got WAY bigger problems than an oil hose 
..and if it did i would like to think it would compress and give a little. Actually I think your oil tank is lower than this hose so my first comment still satnds ..
anyhoo .... i would rather the hose compress than rip off a big hunk of metal under the car as it doesn't look to secure anyway .....
for me "it is fit ....... for the pit" ..... !!!!
..and if it did i would like to think it would compress and give a little. Actually I think your oil tank is lower than this hose so my first comment still satnds ..
anyhoo .... i would rather the hose compress than rip off a big hunk of metal under the car as it doesn't look to secure anyway .....
for me "it is fit ....... for the pit" ..... !!!!
My observations had more to do with something hitting the existing (totally unprotected) factory hose (not a failure of the proposed device). One could mount such a device in a proper manner and dissapate heat while doing so.....
Few degrees here,...few degrees there,..next thing you know, you've achieved a significant reduction in op temps.....
I'm (still) with you....I stand "factory" with that EXPOSED piece of rubber awaiting what may be flung its way,..which, so far (6-years) has been NOTHING.
It IS an opportunity to dissapate some heat, I'd say (on the engineering side).
Best,
Doyle
