SAGA II
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Question](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
Say that we can access the bearing and replace it. Has anyone done this before? If I just replace that 1 bearing do I need to machine anything? Does anyone think this is a good option to keep on driving like that?
I appreciate everone who has responded to my other questions so far.
PS... I am not affraid of turning a wrench. I built (for the most part a 425hp 68 Chevellle turning high 12's) I also own a 77 chevy p/u 454
(7.4l) that I am redoing the carb on because it doesn't pass smog. I am just trying to say I am not affraid of a little grease. In fact my hands are currently stained from last night working on my Acura
Brian
1980SC <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
I appreciate everone who has responded to my other questions so far.
PS... I am not affraid of turning a wrench. I built (for the most part a 425hp 68 Chevellle turning high 12's) I also own a 77 chevy p/u 454
(7.4l) that I am redoing the carb on because it doesn't pass smog. I am just trying to say I am not affraid of a little grease. In fact my hands are currently stained from last night working on my Acura
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Brian
1980SC <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
#2
Instructor
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You must figure out why the bearing spun. Was it an oiling problem? Just wore out? Damaged due to the engine making metal elsewhere?
I would say that you would probably need a new rod, regrind the crank and get new bearings.
And there's always the "while I'm in I should...." scenario to deal with.
Dave Flaherty
I would say that you would probably need a new rod, regrind the crank and get new bearings.
And there's always the "while I'm in I should...." scenario to deal with.
Dave Flaherty