Brian911

Hey guys,

Recently I had a big knocking noice in my engine. We thought later that it was the fan because it was scapping the shroud but that proved not to be the problem. We have not yet taken the engine out but that is our next step. I guess my first question is how much money and labor are involved in rebuilding the engine. I figure while the mechanic is in there he shoud replace what he can. Labor is basically free (well... sume beer) so its just going to be the parts that will kill me.
I just looking basically for anyone to relay their stories and place they got parts from and prices.

Brian
1980SC

Rick Lee

Dan

Brian, There are plenty of places to get the parts you will need, but the sponsers of this board would be a great place to start. IMO it depends on what you what to get out of your rebuild. What mods you might want to do or gain in HP? Is this your daily or can it be out of commision for awhile? I would strongly suggest researching all options, even ones that might be out of your budget so you can make the right decision for you. Post more info when the engine gets pulled and you know the extent of the problems and damage. I look back at my recent rebuild and wish I had done more homework. Would have probably gone the route I did, just didnt know all the options. Found this and other sources a little to late.

HarryD

Brian,

I have always heard that a proper rebuild costs $8-10k and figure about 40 hours labor.

Chris Martin

My wrench told me 10-12k, with him doing everything, to rebuild my 3.0. This is why a lot of guys just swap motors instead of rebuilding. I have heard of excellent condition 3.2's going for 4k-5.5. A little more gets you a 3.6 Of course there's a lot more to it than that, but it's something to think about.

JackOlsen

<a href="http://community.webshots.com/album/41748817iLaWSP" target="_blank">Check out this link</a>.

A swap makes more sense, dollars-wise. Both involve some amount of risk, depending on the condition of the new motor, or the skill of the rebuilder.

chuck951

[quote]Originally posted by HarryD:
<strong>Brian,

I have always heard that a proper rebuild costs $8-10k and figure about 40 hours labor.</strong><hr></blockquote>

I'll have to disagree with this figure. I suppose if you replaced absolutely everything then that's probably right. But with the SC motors, from my experience, you can just go in and fix what needs fixing and keep on rolling. I mean why replace P&Cs if there's nothing wrong. Why not a top end rebuild, studs, valve job and keep on going? Other components in there are good for 200K++ miles, why change what's not broken?

In my case the tensioner in my old 78 SC targa my tensioner and I had, um, "piston to valve interferance." We tore the motor apart, did a valve job, bearings (including splitting the case), rings, seals, studs, etc. and I was in for "only" $3500 and it ran like a top. Put a new clutch and lighter flywheel "while I was in there"
Spending an extra $7K just to "do it right" wasn't necessary and was overkill. Now if you decide to go to 98mm pistons or something like that it would be a different story. But few people I know are lighting cigars with C-notes these days

Swapping motors isn't always the best idea IMHO. If you rebuild your own motor to your specs then you know what you've got. With a used motor (any mileage) then you don't unless it was recently rebuilt (with documentation). Sure it could show good compression and leak down, but hey those studs can pull or break at any time! SC studs DO break. Ask me how I know YMMV!

Of course I sold that car and bought a 944NA(duh!) and now I have a new project...installing a 3.0 into a 69 911. Before the motor goes in I'm going to get a top end rebuild and new studs installed...and the whole deal will cost about $5K. Why pay more right?

Chuck

HarryD

Chuck,

I totally agree that you can limit your scope (and $$). I just feel that we should be prepared for the worst and then look for the good news.

chuck951

[quote]Originally posted by HarryD:
<strong>Chuck,

I totally agree that you can limit your scope (and $$). I just feel that we should be prepared for the worst and then look for the good news.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yeah, I agree with your there. Actually I wasn't given a price before the motor was opened up to see everything else was cherry. "We won't know for sure until we get in there," he told me.

chuck951

[quote]Originally posted by chuck951:
<strong>

Yeah, I agree with your there. Actually I wasn't given a price before the motor was opened up to see everything else was cherry. "We won't know for sure until we get in there," he told me.</strong><hr></blockquote>

I was rereading the original post from Brian911 about the knocking noise. At the time that my motor jumped time I was on an autocross course, zooming through the cones. Heard a loud single knock followed by metal on metal grinding noises. I said, "uh, oh, that sounded expensive!"

Porsche, there is no substitute

HarryD

Chuck,

Getting a rebuild done is sort of scary. My guy needs a top end (valve guide leaks) but I want to finish my Club AutoX series before I break it open. Then a again, my fellow AutoX'ers may take up acolection to retire SMOKY. This winter will tell the story.

If I am lucky, a valve job, and maybe, rings and regrind the cam. If I am not so lucky, new P&C's. And if the P -gods are mad at me, a full rebuild. I figure I'll open her up, get the real skinny and decide if it is rebuild or replace time.

I keep telling my wife that if I am not blowing my $$ on the car, I would be wasting it on my G-Friend . She seems to think this a better place for my hobby $$.