Misc things - shift coupler and oil change
08-21-2011, 11:32 AM
#17
Parts Specialist
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Thread Starter
dont know what you bought Ferd, but there isnt anything like this available except Wevo @ $200 that I have seen - no offense, new stock will help a lot though and they are about ? $15 ?
work of caution when "rebuilding" - dont drive the pin out by holding on to the housing - hold onto the shaft
work of caution when "rebuilding" - dont drive the pin out by holding on to the housing - hold onto the shaft
08-21-2011, 02:05 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
As Rusnak and DRACO have said in the past: "Pay it back"......
What problems did you have?
Doyle
What problems did you have?
Doyle
Last edited by dshepp806; 08-22-2011 at 06:41 PM. Reason: spelling
08-22-2011, 02:05 AM
#25
dont know what you bought Ferd, but there isnt anything like this available except Wevo @ $200 that I have seen - no offense, new stock will help a lot though and they are about ? $15 ?
work of caution when "rebuilding" - dont drive the pin out by holding on to the housing - hold onto the shaft
work of caution when "rebuilding" - dont drive the pin out by holding on to the housing - hold onto the shaft
08-22-2011, 03:20 AM
#26
I haddah Google dat
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The shift coupler housing is made of cheap pot metal, and will break if it's not supported. The pin can be driven out either with a hydraulic press (what I use), or a vise, if you use a deep socket with the right diameter to support it.
08-22-2011, 09:39 AM
#27
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Ferd, I just threw out a set of those bushing Friday from the guy on PP that started that thread...
his coupler had those in them, you can read his review of mine - those bushings are rubbery and so tight the 2 parts cannot move freely - keep me in mind for plan B
Rus, I have found that supporting on the aluminum over a socket or other (hole in aluminum plate) doesn't always work. The bushings are so soft and some couplers pins are so tight (lightly rusted) that all it does is twist off at an angle and could crack the housing
since the outer housing is "suppose to" float - that means the pin is only pressed into the "threaded part" (although those really are not threads, more like splines) I have a block I hold in the vice with a hole for the splined end to slide in and then I drive the pin out never touching the housing - you can just clamp onto the splines as they serve no function other then grip so if you mark them a little its not a huge deal... I just prefer not to mark them up - I will try and get a pic of my set up so you see what I mean.
his coupler had those in them, you can read his review of mine - those bushings are rubbery and so tight the 2 parts cannot move freely - keep me in mind for plan B
Rus, I have found that supporting on the aluminum over a socket or other (hole in aluminum plate) doesn't always work. The bushings are so soft and some couplers pins are so tight (lightly rusted) that all it does is twist off at an angle and could crack the housing
since the outer housing is "suppose to" float - that means the pin is only pressed into the "threaded part" (although those really are not threads, more like splines) I have a block I hold in the vice with a hole for the splined end to slide in and then I drive the pin out never touching the housing - you can just clamp onto the splines as they serve no function other then grip so if you mark them a little its not a huge deal... I just prefer not to mark them up - I will try and get a pic of my set up so you see what I mean.
