whalebird

Sure are...they call it a 912.

ivangene

I also have 2 jacks... saves switching between stands and jacks BUT if you do the jack stands where do you advise jacking / placing stands (pics help on this one)

ivangene

911-606-230-00-M85 Oil Pressure Warning Switch, 911/911 Turbo (1974-89), Each
and

999-707-314-40-M213 Internal Thermostat O-Ring, 911/911 Turbo (1974-89)


???
TIA

murphyjp

Anyone ever have any issues with jackstand slippage. When you jack up one side and place the stand, it seems possible to have the stand slip/slide as you jack the 2nd side as the car is kind of pivoting on the stand. No?

Ed Hughes

Do it in smaller increments from side to side.

rusnak

I use two jacks if I'm lifting the front, in order to avoid putting torsion on the body.

In the back, I usually lift from the crankcase, and place the jacks under the torsion tube - both at the same time so I don't have the side-to-side problem. I've seen some awful pictures of 911s that fell when the jackstands tipped over using the side-to-side method.

KILRWAIL

At the rear, I use a 2 x 4 piece of wood that contacts both exhaust headers (SSI type) plus a piece of 1" pine under the crankcase, just forward of the oil drain. It's supported at three places that way. Jackstands under the torsion bar ends or the frame where it bends upwards toward the rear. At the front, I place the jack about 15" behind the air dam, where there's a raised section running across the car. Jackstands under the control arm attachment points. Whenever possible, I use the side jacking points - like when changing brake pads.

PDACPA

Does anyone have a link to the oil pressure switch DIY? I was planning on doing my "4" oil return tubes and "while I am there" is the oil pressure switch something recommended? Any thing else?

I use 4 jack stands and put the wheels under the sides of the car in the event it fell off the stands the wheel would catch it.

KILRWAIL

You can do these jobs on different days, although the oil must be drained for both. The oil return tubes will wear you out. Wait until the next day to do the pressure switch, which is on top at the front and is virtually impossible to reach without dropping the engine at least partially. Here's the Pelican article on how to do that: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ngine_drop.htm

PDACPA

Thanks Peter. I thought the oil return tubes looked pretty straight forward. Guess there is a bit more to it. I have read they pretty much get destroyed coming out and can be a pain.

KILRWAIL

If you look at the pictures I posted above, you can see that old tube had to be cut to remove it. I crushed it with a pair of Channelocks, then cut it with tin snips. Talk about commitment! I did mine without removing the exhaust, because I'm stubborn, or stupid. The hose clamps on the new one are critical to give you something to push against to expand the tubes. You'll remove them afterwards. Have fun!

PDACPA

I was wondering why you had the hose clamps as the ones for sale do not have those. I guess you tighten them around the tube and then can push on them to get the tube securely in and then remove them?

I installed my cat bypass and GHL exhaust, so I am familiar with it under there, but was hoping to not have to drop the exhaust.

KILRWAIL

You got it. Make sure you feel the rubber collar on the tube "seat" distinctly when you push. A tiny bit of oil on the rubber will help. Orient the hose clamps so you can still get a screwdriver on them to remove them after the tube is installed.

theiceman

if your doing the oil pressure switch and o ring you may as well do the breather cover gasket. that is often what leaks back there. or should I say " up there"

taking the exhaust off can be risky in the area where the exhaust fastens to the head . if your not experienced with that take care. Bust a stud and you will wish youhad never started the project. Work around the exhaust if you can . A real PITA but a lot less risk.