Differences in 72 911 engines and restoration questions???
#31
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ok, for $6k it might be worth a closer look - by an expert. esp to examine for rust deep within (& underneath) & for accident history. if he has more shots - you want to see them, esp the undercarriage, interior (beneath seatcovers, headliner of targe top, seals, under carpets), under doors, door jambs (also of paint code plate), wheel wells (esp rear looking forward), susp, longitudinals, more from the paint-stripping era, etc etc. panel gaps seem ok (must examine in person - these are not great shots), but some things like bumpers seem off - perhaps from painting reassembly. any records, inc from previous owners, is a plus. I'm surprised he's owned it for 10 yrs & knows so little - maybe driven little? storage outdoors is not good... accumulates lotsa vapor condensation & just plain exposure which drills deep.
#32
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be aware that similar old cars have similar old problems... thus having multiple examples can mean that the same parts are shot on both.
what is your intent? restoring to investment grade or ending up w/ a nice driver you can enjoy & be proud of? if not for investment, then don't obsess over the motor - hard to be certain of they are truly as delivered w/ the car... must buy a CoA from Porsche. I'd build the strongest 2.2 w/ the parts on hand w/o going overboard or just sell the box 'o parts & buy a 3.0 - that would be nifty.
I'd consider this one over the "updated" one - that was too much serious time & $.
what is your intent? restoring to investment grade or ending up w/ a nice driver you can enjoy & be proud of? if not for investment, then don't obsess over the motor - hard to be certain of they are truly as delivered w/ the car... must buy a CoA from Porsche. I'd build the strongest 2.2 w/ the parts on hand w/o going overboard or just sell the box 'o parts & buy a 3.0 - that would be nifty.
I'd consider this one over the "updated" one - that was too much serious time & $.
#34
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I have a few emails out there to car guys I know in the area. None are Porsche specialists unfortunately, but I will include your list of area to check ked.
I think if it is all he says it is, it is definitely worth 6K. As for my intent. I would like to restore it to something I can drive and be proud of. If I decide to sell it in the future, that will be taken into consideration. I think I am capable of doing a pretty good job if I take my time. Hopefully this one works out. A 72 Targa was one of the cars I had looked at for a while before I started leaning towards later models. Still want both, we'll see what the budget has in store for this year.
I think if it is all he says it is, it is definitely worth 6K. As for my intent. I would like to restore it to something I can drive and be proud of. If I decide to sell it in the future, that will be taken into consideration. I think I am capable of doing a pretty good job if I take my time. Hopefully this one works out. A 72 Targa was one of the cars I had looked at for a while before I started leaning towards later models. Still want both, we'll see what the budget has in store for this year.
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As for the MFI, if it lends a significant advantage I will keep my eyes open for one, if not I will just research what else I can do with the 2.2.
I think ked is right about the 2.2, keep it and make it into something. If an original 2.4 comes along for a good price it could be a later project.
I think ked is right about the 2.2, keep it and make it into something. If an original 2.4 comes along for a good price it could be a later project.
#36
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if not a 911 specialist, at least make sure they are experienced w/ chassis accident & rust issues in '50-70s Euro cars... Alfas, BMWs, MB & VWs (esp Ghias)... but 911s have their unique features, my short note is not comprehensive. good luck / save money!
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One important area to look at is the front suspension pan. The pictures of the yellow Targa don't show this too well. The dual batteries sometimes leak acid (especially for autocross junkies) and it eats away at it. I used to use cheap batteries and had this problem in my car. I eventually went with an Optima gel battery. The front suspension pan is available and is a common replacement. It can be expensive however. Find someone who know how to do it as it is important to get the pickup points located properly.
People are asking huge amounts for these cars. So restoration of a basically sound car is becoming more economically viable.
People are asking huge amounts for these cars. So restoration of a basically sound car is becoming more economically viable.
#38
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OK, I am doing a light restoration on a 72 T targa now and I also have an 82' SC for sale $7500?
See here https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...t-project.html for details of the 72' T, I have this car sold for $20k. I just drove it 150 miles in the past two days and is just great fun!!
Here are pics of the 82' SC I now have for sale. I haven't touched this car yet. It is high miles 175k and is cosmetically challenged on the interior(don't mind the HOOD BADGE on the steering wheel!). However it is rust free, has a new clutch and tranny rebuild to the tune of $3900 from Musante Motorsports, per the PO, the brakes and suspension have been "gone through" as well. Engine pulls strong but I suspect there is a vacuum leak or other CIS adjustment needed due to fluctuating idle. We are talking about a $7500 911 here after all, it's not going to be perfect but it runs, rolls, and stops as is with zero rust, great wheels, good tires and good paint with the exception of poor prep on the 'incorrect' turbo tail.... Anyway PM me if you want to come check it out. Only a 6-7 hr ride depending on where you are
See here https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...t-project.html for details of the 72' T, I have this car sold for $20k. I just drove it 150 miles in the past two days and is just great fun!!
Here are pics of the 82' SC I now have for sale. I haven't touched this car yet. It is high miles 175k and is cosmetically challenged on the interior(don't mind the HOOD BADGE on the steering wheel!). However it is rust free, has a new clutch and tranny rebuild to the tune of $3900 from Musante Motorsports, per the PO, the brakes and suspension have been "gone through" as well. Engine pulls strong but I suspect there is a vacuum leak or other CIS adjustment needed due to fluctuating idle. We are talking about a $7500 911 here after all, it's not going to be perfect but it runs, rolls, and stops as is with zero rust, great wheels, good tires and good paint with the exception of poor prep on the 'incorrect' turbo tail.... Anyway PM me if you want to come check it out. Only a 6-7 hr ride depending on where you are
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#39
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I thought most of the engine differences were covered in Paul Frere's "Porsche 911 Story", Bruce Anderson's "911 Performance Handbook", Tobias Aichelle (sp?) "911 Engine History and Development", and a handfull of 911 Restoration guidebooks, such as the Restoration Guide to Autenticity, etc?
#41
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If we're going to start talking about induction systems, please be aware that the Zenith's on 2.2 T's (or ROW 2.4T's) WERE non-jettable. (I have no idea what some mad scientist might have been up to in that past 20 years..............)
As far as resurrecting an MFI system, they were bitchy enough to deal with on the low compression T's when they were only a few years old. I can't even imagine getting it working decent on anything less than an absolute gem of an engine these days.
As far as resurrecting an MFI system, they were bitchy enough to deal with on the low compression T's when they were only a few years old. I can't even imagine getting it working decent on anything less than an absolute gem of an engine these days.
#42
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Short update. Have a guy going to look at it early next week. He's a VW guy, closest I could get to Porsche!
Going to see how this one plays out. As for getting a driver as well, not sure whether it will be in the cards for this year. I don't get home until Aug/Sep. Taking the family to Europe for a month, so that puts me into mid to late October, worst case. We will then have snow a few weeks after that. Best to get the "project" and see where that leaves the bank account after the winter. With any luck, it will be my "driver" by summer.
On the engine stuff.......The guy said that the engine was taken out to rebuild because it burnt a lot of oil and smoked quite a bit. Obviously top end problems. I plan to take the whole engine apart. I guess with the bottom end it will be just seals etc, unless something really needs to be replaced down there. Too early to start planning, don't even know whether or not I will buy the car, but still thinking about it.
Anyway, hopefully by Tuesday at the latest I will know if I am going to buy it. Hopefully it doesn't sell before then!!!
Going to see how this one plays out. As for getting a driver as well, not sure whether it will be in the cards for this year. I don't get home until Aug/Sep. Taking the family to Europe for a month, so that puts me into mid to late October, worst case. We will then have snow a few weeks after that. Best to get the "project" and see where that leaves the bank account after the winter. With any luck, it will be my "driver" by summer.
On the engine stuff.......The guy said that the engine was taken out to rebuild because it burnt a lot of oil and smoked quite a bit. Obviously top end problems. I plan to take the whole engine apart. I guess with the bottom end it will be just seals etc, unless something really needs to be replaced down there. Too early to start planning, don't even know whether or not I will buy the car, but still thinking about it.
Anyway, hopefully by Tuesday at the latest I will know if I am going to buy it. Hopefully it doesn't sell before then!!!
#43
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The car is as good as mine!!!
I heard back from the guy that went to look at it today. He couldn't find any rot on it anywhere. I guess the tear down will tell for sure, but I am confident this one is in pretty good shape.
I will be home in a few weeks on leave and I am going to pick it up and tow it up to my shop, where it will unfortunately sit until August when I am home for good.
One question, it may be obvious, but where are the best tie down points for towing with a trailer?
I heard back from the guy that went to look at it today. He couldn't find any rot on it anywhere. I guess the tear down will tell for sure, but I am confident this one is in pretty good shape.
I will be home in a few weeks on leave and I am going to pick it up and tow it up to my shop, where it will unfortunately sit until August when I am home for good.
One question, it may be obvious, but where are the best tie down points for towing with a trailer?