daniel the tiger

Hello

I have a 1971 911T and I want to go through the suspension over the next month or so. I am sending off front bilstein inserts (for boge struts) to bilstein for rebuilding today. I plan on purchasing a new pair of bilstein HDs for the rear.

Last summer, I did the OEM 930 tie rod upgrade.

This is where I am lost. There are so many options on the market for these cars - everything from stock to ERP stage whatever complete suspension setups, that I'm not sure which way to go. The car is street driven only, though I may do an a/x or 2 in the future. We have pretty terrible roads here in RI, so I'm trying to keep the ride quality decent.

The car is a T, with no sway bars. 15x6 fuchs with 205/60 BF G sports. What should I replace and with what?

Here's my rough draft list:
-bilstein HDs all around
-(Neatrix?) A arm bushing kit
-ball joints
-upper strut mounts (where can I get these? Although my car has under 72k on it, surely the originals should be replaced, no?)
-bump steer kit (not the fancy one, the simple spacer one as I plan on lowering the car about 1")
-new wheel bearings all around
-rear spring plate bushings
-rear trailing arm bushings (stock?)

What am I overlooking?
What about the torsion bars? Anything I should do there?
What about replacing spring plates with adj ones? If I *don't* do this, how hard is it to lower the rear ride height?
Should I add sway bars? I was thinking if *yes*, look for some oem ones from a later model?

While I am in there I will be replacing all brake flex lines (p.o. rebuilt master cylinder...I've already done front rotors and pads along with speed bleeders) and probably rear rotors and pads.

Your input is appreciated. As much as I'd like to just call up Elephant Racing and order the whole stage 1 suspension kit, it is not in my budget. Too many other things to address.

Thank You

500

Adjustable spring plates are a nice upgrade as they give you a range that you can make relatively easy ride height adjustments in.

Elephant Racing is a very good source for rubber bushings. I believe their A-arm bushings are the closest to OEM spec that is available.

MUSSBERGER

Neat website too.

rusnak

One of the great insights from the ERP approach, that is echoed by the great minds on Rennlist such as Steve and Peter, is that the suspension is a system. Look at the components as working together. That is why Chuck has the upgrades grouped into levels.

Dont piecemeal your planning. You can piecemeal your expenditures, as long as you know where you're going with the endgame setup.

HarryD

Hi,

sounds like you want to keep your street ride. Based on your rough draft list, if it was me (who is a tightwad), I owuld do the following:
-bilstein HDs all around - Yes
-(Neatrix?) A arm bushing kit Inspect the A arm Bushes and see if they need replacement at all. Look at the ends and see if there are any radial cracks visible. If not, they are ok.
-ball joints Inspect and replace only if worn
-upper strut mounts (where can I get these? Although my car has under 72k on it, surely the originals should be replaced, no?) why? Are they worn?
-bump steer kit (not the fancy one, the simple spacer one as I plan on lowering the car about 1") Only if you lower the car
-new wheel bearings all around Doubt you need them, inspect first, the rears are a bear to remove so I would do nothing there.
-rear spring plate bushings Replace with Neatrix or factory rubber
-rear trailing arm bushings (stock?) If worn, replace

What am I overlooking? Don't know
What about the torsion bars? Don't waste your time unless you are going to track the car
Anything I should do there? Don't know
What about replacing spring plates with adj ones? If I *don't* do this, how hard is it to lower the rear ride height? Either way you will need to reset your ride height usingthe non-adjustable method the first time. Since you are not racing, the adjustments happen every 10-20 years so why bother with the extra expense?

Should I add sway bars? I was thinking if *yes*, look for some oem ones from a later model? Nice addition but if you are happy with the handling it is something you can do anytime. If it was me, I would get aftermarket adjustables

While I am in there I will be replacing all brake flex lines (p.o. rebuilt master cylinder...I've already done front rotors and pads along with speed bleeders) and probably rear rotors and pads. Sounds good. I would use factory rubber lines for another 15 years of reliable service. Check the date stamps on the lines

Glad to help. I agree that Elephant has some very nice stuff but unless you are tracking your car, the factory setup is more than adequate.

Anyway, just a tightwad's take on your plan.

FWIW, I Autocross my car 6-10 times/year plus a DE. I have stock torsions, 19 mm f/r adjustable sways, bilstein hd struts, bilstein sport rears, replaced rear spring plate bushes 4 yrs ago, and had Rothsport lower/align/corner balance car. Still ok on street and fun at the track.

race911

Even though you've probably got the holes in the chassis (and capped) for the through-body front bar (some year-to-year details fade from memory after 20+ years of not dealing with the old, old cars), if you can pick up an SC or Carrera front end for next to nothing you can go with an underbody front bar. Your steel rear trailing arms may not have the ball socket for a rear bar, so aftermarket would be simpler. But if you grab some aluminum arms cheap............. Stuff's all out there. I was offered a whole SC suspension, decent Bilsteins and all for $200 a few weeks ago. Just really didn't need it. T-bars? I always put 26's in the rear, even on pretty much street cars.

Ed Hughes

Unless you know otherwise, your suspension bushings very likely need replacing. Stay away from Neatrix, the Elephant offerings seem the logical choice. If you do decide to do something with the T-bars, hold off on sending anything to Bilstein as you'll want to match the spring rate.

dshepp806

I like rubber!!!!!!!!!!!

Doyle