tgage

I am trying to resolve a high idle startup on my "new" 1981 SC. The car revs up to about 1800 rpm on startup.

I pulled the AAR out (fairly easy to get to the two bolts provided one has a knuckle joint). The valve is part open, cresent shaped when at room temperature like it is suppose to. I was going to put it on a fused 12 volt small battery to test if it closes when warm (I assume it takes about 2-3 minutes to warm up?). I did take it apart and the spring and plate inside all look good.

The circuit tests at 17 ohms, which I understand should be more like 30? Does this suggest I should replace the resistance wiring?

Secondly, I turned the ignition partially on, and am reading no voltage from the wire to the AAR. I can only trace the wire visually back to midway across the engine, and lose site of where it goes, except iknowing t is suppose to connect up to the fuel pump relay somewhere. I have not dropped the engine in this car (yet!), and still learning about SC's, so could you help me out a little by telling me where the wire connects (gets power) within the engine bay? One of the downsides of this car is that it was modified early on, some good, some sloppy. It has an electromotive HP3 in it (Yea), but I suspect is missing a few electrical components.... I'm hoping it is just a simple wire connect issue.

I'll be glad to post pics.

tom

bpietrzak

I an currently testing for the same.

My AAR is staying open after the car warms up. I pulled the outer hose off after the car had warmed up. Using a mirror and flash light, I could see that the AAR was still open after warm up

In my reading, the car needs to be running to test the current to the AAR.

AAR check:

AAR is located on the right side of the engine between 5-6 intake runner.
It's the item that has a small electric plug and a large vacuum hose connected to it.
Open the clamp holding the outside-hose.
Pry it off with the screwdriver just enough to get it out of the way so you can see into the opening.
Don’t worry about the Alu pipe; it’ll move enough.
With the help of a small mirror and a light, look inside the AAR.
When COLD, you should see an opening in the slide shaped like a half-moon.
When really HOT, the opening should be completely closed.
If it isn't closed, the AAR is either broken or doesn't get any power.
You can spray some WD-40 into the valve in case it is just sticky.
To check the power, carefully open the tiny clip on the plug with a very small screwdriver and pull it off.
The wire clip is tricky but necessary; don't break it off.
Start the engine and check the plug for 12 V.
Just ignition ON will not get power to AAR or WUR; engine has to run.
(One wire is power, the other (brown) is ground)
With power to the AAR, it should close after about 5 minutes.
If all is well, replace the hose and clamp securely.
Let us know what you find HOT and COLD.