MUSSBERGER

Is it me or does the speedo needle look more faded than the tach and clock

Ed Hughes

I concur on that. Does that dash have nicks or areas of touch up below it?

Ed Hughes

How did this car get a year younger. The first thread called it a '74.

rusnak

I didn't mean to call it a bad car, just that it looks like a higher mileage car than stated.

It's a vague sense that you get when you see that the loose dirt has been sprayed away, and underneath you see years of rust, scratches (see engine), and a mixture of new parts such as the oil cooler that tend to accumulate with road use, not the typical passage of time while stationary in a garage.

I agree that there are aspects of the car such a the floorpan and seemingly lack of rust that make this a nice find. It's as if someone started a restoration and did not get around to the drivetrain yet.

kevjandon

While going through the photos today I noticed the the faded color on the speedo too. I did not see the nicks though.

The original ad said it was a 74. After I looked at it I discovered it was a 75. The owners ad was wrong.

Like someone said, there are components that look just brand new like the rear trailing arms and carpets (which look brand new). Then you see things like the tach. Then you notice that the tool kit looks brand new and the clock, radio and speakers work. It has the original oil return tubes for pete sake and they are not leaking (from what I could tell). Driving it the trans shifts like the 40K miles SC I once owned (brand new). The only issue driving is the steering wheel bushing is shot as is the tires and shocks.

I just don't know. I offered them 14K yesterday and they said no way in hell. I came up to 15K and he said they would have to think about it. Thoughts?????

Ed Hughes

I don't know if I'd go any higher.

How does a steering bushing go kaput in 15K miles?

Oil tubes don't wear out, but they can get new o-rings if the heads come off.

whalebird

I think I would hold at that price, even hope they don't take it. Thats a bunch of fun-tickets for a 75 and could get you well into SC/Carrera territory. remember this is a low-mile 2.7. I still contend that it's going to fall apart like a sack of potatos when you start driving it: wheel bearings,alternator,CV boots, fuel distributor/pump, rusty tank, and countless other things.

Brett San Diego

Have you checked the engine number? Correct for the car. Can you order a certificate of authenticity if you aren't the owner? Just wondering how else you could verify that the engine and transmission are original to the car.

My first thought when seeing the undercarriage, engine, and exhaust was that it doesn't look like a 15K mile car. Some parts look pretty clean, but others quite corroded, like the transmission mount and rear anti-roll bar. I'd still buy it just for the color (mileage be damned). Well, as long as the price was still reasonable and I could verify the color was original. I know you said the original VIN tag is missing. Is the color code plate still in the driver's door jamb?

Brett

salukijac

kevjandon,
Can you verify you have the complete VIN? 9115202234

kevjandon

Color code is correct and still there. 336 9-2 equals Mexico blue.

I'm going back tomorrow. The service books are with the car. I'll check to see if the engine number is listed.

I should note that this car has ALL the original keys too. Plus it still has the tag from porsche so the dealer knows how to make you more keys.

whalebird

Pull the speedo and see if there is a date code printed on it that correspons with the build bate of the car.

andrew911

If your concerned, maybe you could settle on a price contingent on checking the speedometer, but that's the only way I could see that you could get away with checking this ....as a seller there is no way I'd let some guy yank my speedometer and potentially screw up the wires and dash with no firm committment to purchase the car if it checks out.

whalebird

I here you andrew911. It's part of a prudent purchase and the owner should allow it during the PPI. I would feel the same as you though...some yahoo yanking stuff apart is hard to sit and watch.
This car will need a bunch of stuff regardless of the milage.

kevjandon

With respect to the speedo, if it has been out before they are pretty easy to get out agian based on my experience. I'll see if I can give it a tug and just pop it out. So far the the guy who is storing it has let me do what I wanted with it.

I looked back at the other photos and attached them below of other angles of the speedo. The red needle matches better in these photos and from my memory that all looked bright red just like the heater control ***** that often fade between the seats. Take a look:

wpriller

I have 75 I just put back together after it sit for almost 10yrs., and let me tell you, It cost a bundle. You have to be aware of the head stud issue with the mag case between 74 & 77. If this issue has never been address on this 75, it's eventually going to have to be done, and for it to be done correctly it can cost a bundle. I had my engine done and it cost me $12,900.

I've owned my 75 for 30yrs, this is the only reason that I took on the task of putting the car back together. I think you need to be conscious of your purchase and do some research on some of the problems that were going on with the 1975 911S. Most experts will tell you if the 2.7 engine is rebuilt correctly, and some of the other mechanical issues updated, the 75 can be a fun car with some longevity.